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2l Pinto & Type9 5speed into Escort


Gaz

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2l Pinto & Sierra 5speed conversion into mk1 2door manual tunnel.

This is the conversion of a 2l sierra engine and 5 speed gearbox into a manual mk1 escort. It should also be the same for a mk2 escort and also the same for mk1/2 autos however gearbox tunnel will not need to be modified as much for the auto shells.

First get yourself an engine and gearbox. There are two different types of the sierra gearbox. The comman type 9 and the mt75. Either should be able to be made to fit, but this document specifically covers the more comman Type 9 box.

Also there are two different short block types of 2l pintos. The 205 block is the one to go for if you can find one as it has stronger rods and block. To tell a 205 block look under the exhaust manifold or inlet and there should be a large 205 stamped as in the photo.

Depending on what engine you had. From Sierra or from Cortina will depend on a few things:

-The sump will be different. We need to know this for when we modify the sump. The Sierra sump will need more radical cutting than the Cortina one. Both can be made to fit, the Cortina is easier.

-The sierra will have electronic ignition. Whilst this can be used, the electronic unit can often be faulty and also it makes the connection of some tachos more difficult. Therefore, for simplicity, a cortina dizzie is better.

-The engine mounts are different. This is not a problem because the mounts to use are the original ones from the xflow.

-Cortina engines had a standard plastic fan bolted to the front of the water pump whereas the Sierras had a viscous fan that is bigger in both diameter and depth.

What you will need:- 2l engine

- Type 9 gearbox

- Sierra gearbox crossmember

- Escort mounts

- Cortina sump

- Cortina dizzy

- Driveshaft

probably best to fit new petrol lines

also require a custom exhaust

Step1 The Mounts

If you have a sierra engine then you will see some huge wing like engine mounts… Pull them off. Now bolt the escort ones back on in place of the sierra ones. That’s that sorted.

Step2 The Sump

Now rip the sump off and determine weather it is Cortina or Sierra. There is a pic of Sierra and Cortina sump below. The top pic is of a Seirra and is modded wrong. The bottom pic is off a sump that fits perfect. I would recommend cutting and welding a Cortina ones as the below instructions will work. They DONT work with a Sierra sump. The question of exactly what needs cutting and welding depends on who you talk to. On a Cortina sump, the bottom of the bowl will fit (just), but the sloping part from the front to the back will not. So, some people choose to modify the sump by leaving the bowl bottom as is and just squaring off the sloping part. You also need to take about 10mm offf the vertical face to make it fit. 10mm. This will fit and has the advantage that you don’t have to modify the oil pickup inside. (There is an anti surge plate inside that will have to be removed. Don’t worry about this because it is only there to stop oil surging up the slope when you brake heavily. Now with the slope gone, the oil would have to climb straight up a vertical face to starve the pump and this is unlikely, so the surge plate can be omitted.) Above, I said that the original bowl will fit (just)…..Well this is true, it fits with minimal clearance and I guess if your mounts are weak/soft, there is a possibility that the motor may touch the lip on the cross member occasionally. If you really want the best job possible, then the front face of the bowl could be cut back by about 5mm and then it’s sweet. (If you do this, then you will be reducing the oil volume in the sump a bit and you may need to alter the oil pickup pipe.) Also, if you have an old block handy, it pays to bolt the sump to it when you are hacking into it and then welding it up. This will then keep it accurate and reduce the chance of it distorting and then leaking oil for ever.

Step3 The Gearbox Cross member.

Since you have the sierra gearbox it should already have the sierra cross member on it. If not find one. Some people say that you can elongate the existing xflow mounts and use the standard xflow gearbox cross member. On three escorts I have looked at, this looks wrong and I doubt it would pass a cert inspection. Whilst the Sierra cross member looks a bit chunky, it is wider and fits reasonably well onto the floor pan of the body work. To get a Cert, the inspector will want to make sure that the floor pan is reinforced where the cross member bolts through and this can be easily done with 4mm plate, made whatever size you like pretty much. (Typically 100mm x 100mm is fine.) Round the edges of and also mould it as best as can to floor pan. Remember that these plates cannot be loose like washers, they have to be attached to the floor pan so that they are effectively part of the floor. Strangely enough, riveting them in place is sufficient for the Cert but I would recommend welding or 4 little nuts and bolts that hold them. Welding is best.

Step4 The Tunnel

The escort manual tunnel needs a few hammer mods to allow the five speed box to fit. The original mounting rib needs to be cut out and a new hole needs to be cut further back for the gearlever to come through. If you have the time, it is really best to widen the tunnel……Not absolutely needed, but makes it easier and gives you the chance to make the hole for the gearlever accurately and in the right place without having to blank off an old hole.

Step5 The Driveshaft

The Ford Sierra gearbox may have come with a rubber donut universal at the end instead of a true universal. The donut can be retained, but it’s diameter is quite large and it’s clearance to the tunnel is very small….. If you can, get a driveshaft made that is one piece, with a conventional universal at either end. I believe that a Hillman Hunter Drive shaft has the same splines as the Type 9 box and is a good starting point. Ie….Ideally, you would take your old xflow driveshaft and the Hillman Hunter one and say “I want this Hillman Hunter shaft to be made the correct length this Xflow diff flange on it pleaseâ€

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This is a modified Seirra sump. This sump is NOT cut modded correct is just to show that sierra ones are larger

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This is the correct way to cut it. Take the slope out and also about 10mm of the vertical peice

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Vaugely what to do for radiator to fit.

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And same again

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And again

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How to tell a 205 Block

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Alternator bracket I made. Can just use cortina one.

altbracket8ca.jpg

Gearbox mounted in place

gbox6qr.jpg

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  • 1 year later...

Spanners folder conversion process..

How-To Section: Install a 2 litre into a Mk1 or MK2 Escort

What year is the Escort

An Early Mark one? If it is an early Mark one (with the low back seats, or the 45 degree angled rear shocks it is an early model) then there is some small fabrication to be done.

A Late one? If it is a late model Mk1 it has a M2 Chassis, you can pick these hard to get shells by the fact that they have the rear shocks coming closer to vertical than the early ones, and the shocks go up into the boot, rather than onto a plate under the floor.

So what to do... You need to cut the radiator shroud at the front(cut only the op of the radiator shroud, not the sides as these are required to mount the radiator to), so that the 2 litre radiator will fit, as it sits sunken into the shroud, as opposed to the 1600/1300 one which sits out from this area. (Fitting the radiator into the car should be done last though, as there is barely enough room for it all.)

You need to of course reroute the exhaust, as it is on the other side, so get the exhaust off a 2 litre with the engine to avoid hassles (unless you want to buy a new one)

The fuel lines need to be re-routed to the other side, as the carby is on the other side. You can either just extend them, and run it over the exhaust (I really don't recommend this as it may be a fire hazard, you will see what I mean) or re run the whole fuel line (not expensive, maybe $10 to do the whole thing). Run the whole fuel line across the back of the car, then up the other side of the car, thus avoiding the exhaust the whole way along, except the tip of the exhaust which it must pass over.

The wiring has to be altered. It is not too difficult. either try stuffing with a two litre wiring loom, and try matching it up (I have never tried that) OR Mark all of the wires off the 1300/1600 before you remove them, and just extend them or shorten them to reach. You will find that the alternator is on the other side, as the main wires that need extending, and I think the others (the temp sender and the oil pressure are on the other side. I am not sure about the starter motor, but it might be the same there too. It is not too hard if you mark the wires before you remove them..... otherwise it can be difficult to determine which wire is which.

Now you should put the 2 litre engine and gearbox together and lower them into the car. The engine mounts off the 2 litre will line up with the cross member of the 1600/1300. just a bolt up job. Now underneath, the gearbox cross member will line up if you have a late model Mk1, if you have an early model Mk1, only two holes will line up. Either get out the welder and make a new mount, or do what I did. Get some strong steel, and mark up all three holes on it(the one that lines up, and the two that don't) mark it and drill it. Then put a nut and bolt through the one that doesn't fit, and bolt the other two holes up to the original gearbox mounts. That should do the job, as we raced like that for quite a while. you should use a one piece 2 litre tail shaft to bolt up to the diff. The original diff should be ok. From what I understand it is the same as the 2 litre (Housing wise) the axles may be a different diameter, but this doesn't matter. The only difference is that the ratio is a lot higher (ie 3.7:1 or 4.1:1 instead of 3.54:1 which is the 2 litre manual diff).

I think you need a longer clutch cable (2 litre manual one) to reach the gearbox.

You definitely need a longer accelerator cable (the 2 litre one again) to reach the carby on the other side. A slight problem here is that the fitting on the two litre cable doesn't match the fitting on the accelerator pedal. It is not too difficult to work out a fix for this, and Ill leave this up to your imagination, you'll see what I mean, but the ball fittings for Webber linkages are a good start.

That should be all for engine.....

Suspension will be a little too soft if you intend driving it hard. If so, change the rear leafs for the 2 litre ones and change the front struts to the 2 litre ones. These are bolt up. An advantage to putting on the 2 litre struts is getting the bigger 2 litre calipers and rotors, as well as the larger diameter springs.

Brakes will be OK, but marginal if not changed...

You can change the rear drums to the 2 litre ones if you get really excited. I am not too sure how necessary this is though. It is also good to put in the 2 litre master cylinder (the square one) and the little bias square from the 2 litre. I found after putting the whole 2 litre braking system, from master cylinder, to lines, bias, rotors, drums etc... the car braked extremely well, and out braked many 4w disc cars on the track (due to the cars lightness, and the pad compounds).

The brakes and suspension are not mandatory I guess for a road car, It is up to you...

That is all (Finally you say)

Some of the stuff is optional, the actual engine change is not too difficult, and could be done in a weekend if you have the right tools, parts and time..

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