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Kris's 1977 MK2 1600 Sport (supercharged pinto)


Guest kris

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OK, well since lots of other people have put their's up - here's my current project.

sport.jpg

I bought it last year cos it was totally 70s. The bugs like it, in summer I can't see the car for the flies.

Anyway, I broke the 1600 Xflow, and since I've built a zillion of them I thought I'd have a go building a Pinto for it. I was origionally building it to be NA, but I've since decided to throw on a supercharger - so there is a bit of a delay while I sort that out - it's getting complicated. The machining is done, just trying to fit it in to the engine bay.

So the basic engine spec is:

-205 bored to 93.5mm and stroked by 2.8mm to give 2.2ltr

-Holden (sorry guys) racing pistons, with light weight taper gudgeon pins.

-Steel Xflow rods with ARP bolts

-High capacity high pressure Kent Cams oil pump

-Light flywheel

-Balanced

-Zero decked

-External oil filter and cooler

-Big valve head 1.75in 1.5ex, ported and filled ala Vizard

-Sump and mounts from Aussie, not cut.

-SC14 toyota Roots Supercharger (1420cc).

-CR, 9:1

-Modified 2.3 Turbo SAAB 9000 EFI manifold.

-EDIS distributorless igntion

-Megasquirt ECU.

-Subaru Water to Air intercooler.

-Ali Rad.

A custom cam etc is being designed at the moment.

Body specs:

- Sport 2 door shell

- RS strut top plates

- Roller strut tops

- Chassis Gussets

- Capri struts with gussets, munroe fronts, adj koni rears (when I have $ I'll put Konis in the front)

- Vented front disks, 4 pot calipers

- rear disks

- Atlas Axle 3.75 ratio (not LSD :( ), with anti tramp bars and panhard rod.

- RS2000 Instruments.

- Honda Prelude front seats.

- Bias pedal box.

Some of these are installed, most are sitting in boxes waiting to go in.

Obviously this will all need compliancing.

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Here are some photos showing the mock up of the engine bay on a spare block. I was making the mounts etc for the SC when I took these, I am now working on the pipework, fresh air box and the belt tensioner.

enginebay1.jpg

Eagle eyed picky bastards will see that I still have to weld my RS struct top plates on. I am leaving refurbing the engine bay until the installation is completely mocked up. I don't want to have to make mods to a finished bay - so it can stay looking ugly for a little longer.

enginebay2.jpg

In the next photo you can see the SC under the efi inlet manifold. In this position you can't keep the oil filter or distributer. It's ok for me as I will not be running the dizzy and always planned on a remote filter anyway (I hate sideways filters). For other people, it's best to follow Nismo Capri's example on RTs website and put it where the alternator normally lives. I don't want to do this as then you have to use a cast manifold and get the supercharger heated up by the exhaust. You could possibly make custom headers, but it's still tricky in this position. Of course it doesn't usually matter too much if you use the Sierra cast manifold, as this aparently flows quite well anyway.

enginebay3.jpg

I am having trouble getting everything in the engine bay, even with the booster and battery gone. For example, there is the intercooler radiator, oil cooler and larger ali rad all to fit in less space than the original rad (Pinto is a longer engine). Then there is the plumbing and pump for the intercooler, plumbing for the oil thermostat, cooler and remote filter.

I'll be cutting up what's left of my radiator support panel tomorrow.

I will take some photos of my brackets, maybe tomorrow.

Caio for now.

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LOWMK2 Wrote: take some interior pics too

OK, it's not the cleanest it's ever been - and it's missing it gearbox, it's a project after all. The tunnel will soon be replaced with one from an auto, so I can fit the Supra box more easily.

inside1.jpg

inside2.jpg

inside3.jpg

Hope that's what you wanted to see.

Oh yeah, I still need to vinyl dye the door trims semi-gloss black.

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Right, I've mounted up the supercharger, here you can see the top mount that attaches to the head. You can also see where the 60mm throttle body from a Subaru will fit on the intake into the supercharger. I have to make up a mounting plate and have it welded to the intake.

The thing is, too big on the throttle body gives crap part throttle, too small = restriction, so Throttle Body plate sizes are important:

FYI max bhp for TB plate sizes:

(from Forced Induction Peformance Tuning - A. Graham Bell):

50mm -> 170bhp NOS -> 200 Supercharger -> 250 Turbo

56mm -> 210bhp NOS -> 250 Supercharger -> 310 Turbo

62mm -> 260bhp NOS -> 310 Supercharger -> 390 Turbo

70mm -> 330bhp NOS -> 400 Supercharger -> 500 Turbo

75mm -> 380bhp NOS -> 470 Supercharger -> 600 Turbo

85mm -> 490bhp NOS -> 600 Supercharger -> 750 Turbo

...

For superchargers with TB after supercharger use turbo figures.

enginebay4.jpg

I have also found a great pully off a V6 Mitsubishi Diamonte, that is 155mm 6 rib poly v, and has the std v belt for the alternator, water pump etc. The std V pulley part is undersize, which is what I wanted seeing as the engine will be seeing more revs that Ford intended. This pulley will give 9.8psi, ideal for running the car in, and then I will have a larger pulley shrunk on to get the 14.7psi I eventually want.

pulley.jpg

All it needs right now is the right sized hole and keyway bored.

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To answer atro's question on the gearbox, I have an auto tunnel that I will weld in maybe next weekend.

I was trying to choose between the Sierra MT75 and an old school Toyota Celica W50 box. I have both, so that isn't an issue, and they both will handle the power. Anyway I finally got around to measuring the ratios this morning and the W50 box wins hands down (for use with a 3.75 diff).

W50 Celica Supra MK1: 3.29 2.04 1.40 1.00 0.85 (1979-81)

MT75 Sierra DOHC 8V: 3.89 2.08 1.34 1.00 0.82 (1989-92)

**EDIT**

Better 1st gear on the W50 was the deal clincher. The MT75 box has a better 3-4th ratio, closer to the ideal gap of 25% compared with the W50 box's 29%, but the first gear is too low, and would probably be useless with the 3.75 final drive - it would suit a 3.44 or lower final drive vey well . The bigger 3-4th gap on the W50 box is workable with the Escort as it's a big engine in a small car - and should have bags of low and midrange power. A gap like that would be a problem in a big (heavy) car with a small engine (perhaps high power, but no torque). If I had a 3.44 final drive then I would have chosen the MT75, but I don't. I used to run the W50 box in a previous Escort and it was a nice box to use - so it should all be good.

gearbox.jpg

The W50 is the steel cased box, 2nd from the left. And no, I don't own all these, I stole the image from the web.

I need a shorter gearstick housing though, anyone got one?

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  • 3 weeks later...

OK, some progress at last. I have remade the top mount for the supercharger as in the photo. I have angled it back and at a steeper angle from the top of the head. The reason being, I now don't want to use the original outlet pipe that you can see in the photo, but rather come up around the front of the SC - hence the old bracket was in the way and I remade it to give me more space (& to clear the cam belt). BTW, the rod is from the brake servo linkage so it should be nice strong stuff.

top-bracket.jpg

Also, my new Genie extractors (thanks trademe) arrived, so I had to trial fit them...

extractors.jpg

OK, back to the proper work - so I can fit the big fat aluminium radiator that I borrowed from a Renault, the front pannel needs some radical surgery. I also have to clear the intercooler and SC belt, so it needs to come even more forward than is normal. The radiator has no header tank and is a horizontal (apparently better) rather than a vertical flow (original), so it will now fit under the slam pannel. I still have to weld some tubing in to strengthen up the front (but not until I have worked out where to mount the rad, oil cooler and intercooler rad), and I have discovered that I can't fit the water radiator that came with the water to air intercooler anymore, it's end tanks are too large - so it's off to pick a part now to see if I can find a slim (<30mm) air con rad of the right size to use instead. Frankly there is no way I'd ever get an Air to Air intercooler in there, so I am glad (and lucky) that I went straight for water to air.

radiatorpannel.jpg

In case you don't realise the entire rad support pannel has gone, as have the radiator mounts and some of the front pannel. Feel like a vandel? Yup! BTW, holes are not rust, they are tears - will weld up.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just bought this surge tank/swirl pot off trademe - the guy makes them here in NZ, can customise, and the price is excellent. Looks pretty nice, will mount it in the boot with the sub and amp.

surge%20tank.jpg

Edit: This is a fantastic piece of fabrication, the guy who made it is a god! - it's sitting on my dining table until it goes in the car. :P

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  • 2 weeks later...

Right, Pulleys. Boring, but important as the boost of a supercharger depends totally on your pulley ratio (modified by sc and engine capacities).

I want to get about 10psi while I run the engine in, and then increase the boost later if possible. To do this with the electric clutch pulley on the SC14 you need a big pulley on the crank. Have spent hours and $ at pick a part, these are the two best candidates (both need some machining).

pulley-top.jpg

The Mitsi one is off a V6 Dimante, and is 155mm - 9.5psi. The Nissan one is off a SR20 or SR18 and is 163mm (better) (10.5 psi).

pulley-side.jpg

The Mitsi one has the advantage of a standard v pully to drive the water pump and alternator, but it's smaller. The Nissan one will need the water pump and alternator modified to polyV belts (better anyway) and less machining to locate on the crank (only needs enlarging slightly - both will need spacers). The SC runs off the larger 6PK pulley, the alternator and water pump off the smaller 4pk pulley.

Obviously more boost and better belt arangement = best choice for now is the Nissan although it will be a bit more work.

waterpump-pulley.jpg

Here you can see the Nissan water pump pulley on the left and the Pinto one on the right. They are roughly the same size, so they will be cut and shut to mount the ribbed section from the Nissan pulley onto the Pinto pulley. Then all I need is a polyV 4pk alternator pulley (should be easy and not many $ from PAP).

BTW, with a smaller engine (mine is 2.2) this pulley would give much higher boost with smaller engines. My eventual target is around 14.7psi.

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  • 1 month later...

I have been quiet lately but things have been happening in the background. I have been working on the brakes, and have decided to drop the Pug 504 rear disk calipers and use 93 Trueno/Ceres/Marino ones instead. They have more pad area, are better designed wrt to the sliding caliper, and look better - who says bling does not matter.

The engine block is almost done, all mods to rods, lightened dowled flywheel etc are finished. I have bought two SR20 pullys for the crank, and will have one modified to be 180mm rather than 160mm, and then have both balanced to the rest of the engine.

The main reason for the post is that my RS2000 clock pod has arrived from the UK. The reason I want this is to go with my dash.

The clock:

rs2000clockpod.jpg

A Closeup of the dash:

rs2000dash.jpg

and the center console without a clock that I just bought - 2 clocks would be crap:

console-noclock.jpg

I can't get a real RS2000 console for love nor money, and anyway I am not building an RS2000 replica.

It should look a little like this, but with a different steering wheel and console:

dashboard.JPG

Plans:

1. Finish the head mods and get it machined.

2. Run the engine in with std carb and ignition.

3. Add Megasquite EDIS ignition only.

4. EFI+Blower on low boost -> MAP etc.

5. Blower -> big pulley.

Oh yeah, an finish all the body mods like tramp bars, norrowing the axle and building the font struts. The Koni inserts should come soon (or at least b4 XMAS).

edit: Sigh. Why didn't I just repair the Xflow!!!!!

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I've built the Megasquirt computer! Finally got around to it, and did it at work on Friday. Today (Monday) I built the test gear (The stim), and now have it all checked and working.

Photo of MS being tested :D .

Megasquirt0.jpg

Photo of MS in it's case :D:D:D .

Megasquirt1.jpg

Because I want it to run spark control, I will be using the MS-extra code and will also have to build a small board with a VR decoder and some coil drivers. This is cool, as it will save me having to get an EDIS setup from the US or UK and lets you use things like a spark and fuel based rev limiter etc.

I will also have to adapt the code to turn the SC clutch on and off depending on manifold vaccum, shouldn't be too hard.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Back to the pulleys. You might all think I'm a bit of a sad bastard, but for the conversion to work, the pulleys are essential. I've got the modified water pump pulley back and it looks great - I am really pleased, and I will be able to do a dummy build on the weekend to check alignment and make shure the water pump, alternator and crank pulley all talk to each other, and then the crank pulley will hopefully line up with the SC on the brackets I made a few months ago.

Anyway, photos of the new custom pulley for those of you (anyone?) who is still interested....

waterpumppully2.jpg

You can see how the two pulleys from an earlier post were cut and shut.

waterpumppully.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

Some progress lately. Hopefully will get more done over XMAS.

Have had the clutch uprated by MP autoparts in Upper Hutt. This involved moving the pivot point in the pressure plate to increasing the clamping pressure, a new reriveted HD clutch plate with the marcel segments flattened and a stone ground finish on the flywheel. All tested.

No photos, cos it looks the same as a normal one from the outside.

I am going to convert the Celica Box to hydraulic, and have so far bought a suitable slave clyinder and will need to make a pivot and cutom arm to take the std Ford release bearing. This makes sense as; hydraulic clutches feel nicer, I am fitting a bias pedal box anyway and the cable is too close to the exhaust for me to be happy. 6mm is needed to disengage my modified clutch, I will use a 2:1 pivot ratio, and that means I only need an easy 12mm travel at the slave.

Good News: My Koni Sport front adjustable inserts arrived from the USA, and nice and yellow they are too. Now I just need to get the Capri struts wedged and converted to coil overs....

Bad News: &^%(&*%^@#(&^!@ pulleys. I can use the SR20 pulley with the modified water pump pulley as shown in an earlier post, but - I am unhappy about how much of the pulley ISN'T located on the crank, and that setup will only give me 10psi boost. Lame. Time to invest more in customising them I guess :cry:

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  • 1 year later...

I have just spent the last 8 months in Aussie, so no progress for ages. But I am home now, and going to get on with it (work permitting).

Updates:

- I have the new rear axle - a Mazda/Courier LSD. Narrowed to 25mm less than the std english axle take my 7in rims. I have two LSD diff heads that I will be able to swap for track (4.77:1) and road (3.9:1) work. When I got the axle narrowed, we made it easy to pull the 1/2 shafts and therefore change the head. No photos yet - will do sometime.

- I have had a 14psioi pulley made, and machined to take the timing wheel for the ignition.

- I am at the moment working on the engine, I have been finishing the bowls I had cut into the pistons and finishing off the head.

Lots of work to do and no time. Meh.

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  • 6 years later...

Lots of work to do and no time. Meh.

 

OK, that was an understatement  :blackeye:

 

9 years since starting it and 7 or so years...  ...without touching it.

 

Last week I went into the garage and sat in it.   :cry:

 

I will dial back the spec a bit so I can get it on the road sometime in my lifetime.

 

P.S. Mods, I am reclaiming my thread.

P.P.S In order to follow the rules, discussion thread here: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/18538-kriss-escort/?hl=kris

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've been through and dug up most of the engine, and there's good and bad news.

 

The block survived with only a little surface rust in the bores:

 

pinto-01.jpg

 

The crank was not so good:

 

pinto-02.jpg

 
My Beautiful offset ground, radiused, balanced, and zero decked crank  :-( Considering it was stored in the house, this is pretty upsetting.
 

pinto-03.jpg

pinto-15.jpg

pinto-16.jpg

 

The machine shop I used no longer exists, so I'll be taking it in to a local shop to see if there is any hope of a polish saving it.

 

Pistons are fine of course.  Here is the decompression pocket, which exactly matches the head.
 

pinto-04.jpg

 
I only finished 2 of the 4.
 

pinto-05.jpg

 
Machined xflow con-rods (narrowed, modified to non floating gudgeon pins, relocated oil squirt hole, matched weight) and the taper gudgeons and new cam springs all survived perfectly due to sitting in oil.
 

pinto-06.jpg

 

As did the big Esslinger valves (biggest you can fit without relocating the guides, 1.75in 1.5ex), slim head.

 

pinto-07.jpg

 
My ported head also survived with no rust:
 
pinto-11.jpg
 
Ported ala Vizard, exhaust shown here:
 
pinto-10.jpg
 
Chambers opened to align with bores:
 
pinto-12.jpg
 
Big valves fully de-shrouded:
 
pinto-14.jpg
 
Uprated clutch is a bit rusty, but will clean up fine:
 
pinto-17.jpg
 
Lightened flywheel:
 
pinto-18.jpg
 

Block cleaned up well, I guess you could say the bock is well seasoned lol...

 

pinto-09.jpg
 
Studs and dowels to align head chambers.
 
pinto-19.jpg
 
So, mostly still a good foundation for building this engine, shame about the crank, I'll see if it can be saved.
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  • 11 months later...

Screw it.

 

New goal:
 
I'm flagging most of the modifications.  This includes putting back all the panels etc. I cut out.  I've just received a big cardboard box of new radiator support, crossmember, battery tray etc. panels from the UK.
 
new_panels.jpg
 
I'll return everything body wise as close to factory as I can.  From this point on, only mods will be bolt on, period(isn) and easily reversible. 
 
Because of this, I can't fit the supercharger into the engine bay.  So I won't do this anymore.
 
I'll still fit the 2.2 pinto and 5-speed box, LSD axle, capri struts, HD + rear tramp bars (the only weld on mods I'll do), and some minor brake upgrades.  I will keep the fishnets and some of the RS bits I picked up along the way such as the RS dashboard, clock cubby etc.  I will keep the front rubber spoiler - as this seems to have been fitted originally to this one, and the rear spoiler.  I may fit a low boost turbo and the EFI if I can make a turbo manifold that will clear the brake booster.  
 
I'll flag the 13x7 hot-wires that it came on and put it back on original steel sport wheels and skinny tires.
 
The original Sport: gearbox, rear axle, engine, radiator, seats, struts, dash etc.  Will be kept and cleaned up.
 
I may also at some point throw my hands in the air during this and return it to original 1.6 powered kent goodness (with twin sidedafts).  I don't know if I can be assed with LVV certification.
 
Next, I need to take the wings off to sort a little rot in the front edges. 
 
Now a far less interesting project - but I want  to preserve the period character of the car.
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