lowlancer Posted October 20, 2004 Share Posted October 20, 2004 Ok. I decided after getting my exhaust system done that I want to do some shit to my engine. At the moment its pretty sad. I wanna port and polish, extractors, go with the twin car, or get a bigger carb, and lumpier cam. How much, in your guys experiences, did these things cost? Is it possible to change from downdraught carb to side draught? or should I just stick with the set-up I got? With cams, if my peak power is at 6500 rpm, should I have the cam working harder at that stage, or earlier/later? With extractors, are they all dyno tuned, or do they already know what works? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zep Posted October 20, 2004 Share Posted October 20, 2004 Are you keeping with the stock engine? And is all this happening after the manual conversion? Anyway... Decent extractors should already be tuned. Not sure where you'll find some for your car tho. I checked the place I know that sells them and it has nothing. Not even listed. You can change to side draught, most cars it just depends on the brake booster, and where it is in relation to the engine. But saying that, some companies (eg Lynx) make manifolds to suit engines when you want to change to side draughts. They usually clear the booster. Otherwise, you could coinsider a large single carb, or twin down draughts. With the cams, you can get your one reground, or again, there are companies which make cams to suit. This is usually based on how much work is done to the engine and your driving style. Kelford cams might be able to do you something. I'll let you know if I think of something. All you have to do now is go in search of bits for y ** Have you got those wheels on yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
si Posted October 20, 2004 Share Posted October 20, 2004 your engine is sad in what way? no power? no torque? slow reving? its best to have a good read up on your engine to start with and find what other people have done, port and polish without doing the cam isnt going to give you much, and doing the head without sorting the fueling and exausting isnt gonna help either Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kornstar Posted October 20, 2004 Share Posted October 20, 2004 have you sorted out your muffler and shit out allready, if not go to the muffler shop in hamilton, they no there shizzle, they should be able to sort out your extractors aswell. and for a dam good price, cheapest ive heard of so far. Click Me Mention you saw there ad in the yellow pages and ull get 15% off man. Highly recomeded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowlancer Posted October 20, 2004 Author Share Posted October 20, 2004 This is the standy 1600 engine I wanna mod. The manual won't be in till early next year when I have my own place to do it at. I got all my muffler and exhaust crap done at the muffler shop, cost me bout 500 for 2" exhaust, coby and dytech dumper, and yeah I'll see what they think about extractors. The shit thing is, no one has done anything to this type of engine (4G32), I've even checked Aussie, and nothing. I think I'll need to get a standard cam and get it reground, cos I doubt there is anything out there. Also, do you guys think It'd be ok to get twin carbs off the GTO? It was a 2litre, there are some for sale on trademe, 120 bucks, so quite cheap... http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... si+GTO.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowlancer Posted October 21, 2004 Author Share Posted October 21, 2004 So I should suss carbs, then extractors, then cam then headwork...??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowlancer Posted October 22, 2004 Author Share Posted October 22, 2004 ** Have you got those wheels on yet? Buying em tomorrow bro. Can't wait, although it'll be a bit till I get tyres Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W8NSEE Posted October 23, 2004 Share Posted October 23, 2004 as cool as twin carbs are they are a pain in the ass to keep in tune, seriously xconsider a large single carb instead Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerm Posted October 23, 2004 Share Posted October 23, 2004 look on trademe there is a single 45mm sidedraught DELORTO with manifold to fit a 1600 crossflow... for like $400 looks mean... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowlancer Posted October 23, 2004 Author Share Posted October 23, 2004 Fuck right when I don't have money as well. Got my rims though, lightweight racing rims, but look awesome. Will chuck some pics up when I get tyres Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest LukeNukem Posted October 23, 2004 Share Posted October 23, 2004 Why the hell do people sort out the exhaust (muffler/milo can) first, then mags, then worry about the engine? The 1600 is gonna have a hard time trying to fill that 2" exhaust buddy. So, the best thing for you to do to get more performance is.... CHANGE THE BLOODY ENGINE!!!! Your spending all that $$ on trying to get a 1600 to go as good as a 2.0L, when you can get a 2.0L for bugger all! But if you insist on getting more performance from a piddly little 1600 (they go alright, to a certain extent, but a 2.0L with a bit of tweaking, and less money spent, is gonna kick its arse, and drop in inplace of a 1600), do the inlet manifiold and carbs. You want a free flowing manifld that suits the inlet tunnels of the head. Then, the ideal thing to do is get twin carbed, reason? Cyl's 1 and 4 arn't going to get as decent a mixture as 2 and 3, and if you tune it so that 1 and 4 get a decent mix, 2 and 3 are going to run rich, so you get a twin carb setup. Not that hard to tune, and once its done, lock it done so it dosnt slowly go out. The best thing about twin carb setups, is all cylinders get a decent mix, none run rich or dry. Then, you might want to up the fuel pump. Then, advance or decrease your timing depending on your driving style, if your at high revs most of the time, advance your timing a bit. Then, the cam... Theres a whole science beind the cam dude, so its not something you can just take into a shop and say "I want this reground". You need to think about: when you want the inlet to start opening. how fast the inlet opens. how far it opens. how long its open for. when it closes. Then the same for the exhaust valve, plus if there will be much overlap of the lobes. Generaly, you really want the exhaust open a little longer, and maybe to start opening when the piston is almost at BDC on the firing (not power) stroke. You want the inlet to open around 20-30 degrees before TDC (at end of exhaust stroke, just before the power stroke), and to reach its max lift as fast as possible, but not until the piston has gone abit past TDC. I dont really know enough about cams to help you make a good choice, so you can just ask someone to make you a stage 1-2 cam. Extractors and being dyno tuned? PFFFTTTT!!!! The whole thing about extractors is allowing the exhaust gasses to exit throught the straightest, least bent path possible, which aloows the exhaust gasses to exit faster. Extractors are good, and help a little bit, but dont break your back on them, because if your running a 1600 with 2" pipe right to the head, its gonna do fuck all, bacuse the gasses have so much rom to move, and bugger all of it to fill up the pipe. SO fuck the whole "dyno tuned" bullshit, and just get ones that get a straight clean path, or ones that have been proven by others. By now, your probably straining the fucker to get more power, so whats left is a port and polish. bigger inlet ports, to allow more gas to enter the combustion chamber, and polished to stop the moist gas sticking to the walls. But if you went dual carbed, then you dont need it, the engines going to be taking as much gas as possible already. SO by the time you've spent all that cash on trying to get more performance out of a 1.6L, you could've just bought a fuckin 2 litre, or even a 2.3. The cheapest thing to do are twin carb, and secondhand extractors, they give you more noticeable performance too. If you decide to do all the head work, just get a fuckin turbo for it, or a bigger engine. hell, get a 2.3L carbed engine (if it fits), and up the compression on it, then run LPG, presto, you have a far more powerful engine thats cheaper to run, and costed less than the headwork and milo can your planning. JUST GET A BIGGER FUCKIN ENGINE.... Get a 2.0L for cheaper than the fuckin milo-can you stuck on it, and it will just drop in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest LukeNukem Posted October 23, 2004 Share Posted October 23, 2004 Fuckin wanky boy-racers and thier over sized milo cans and pipes on tiny engines... Its a wonder the engine dosnt get sucked into it.... Yes I have a grudge against anyone that does anything like a boyracer, even more so if its done to a decent old car.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowlancer Posted October 23, 2004 Author Share Posted October 23, 2004 You try and find a 4G52)2litre) then, fucking mission. I can't see how doing an exhaust system is boy racer like in any way, quite a standard mod to do. Calm down bro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest WESTCORT Posted October 24, 2004 Share Posted October 24, 2004 because all an exaust does is make it loud Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerm Posted October 24, 2004 Share Posted October 24, 2004 no with a set of extractors the exhaust will make a difference with other mods also as you can read above... Leave him alone he can do what he wants... the 2 litre probably needs certifying to...which is money... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W8NSEE Posted October 24, 2004 Share Posted October 24, 2004 why wouldnt you port and polish the head when its running twin carbs, port n polishing just creates better flow making the engine more efficent, the more efficent an engine is the more power you will have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zep Posted October 24, 2004 Share Posted October 24, 2004 I agree, When I put tuned extractors and 2" pipes on my 1600 engine, definatly felt a difference. Even more so when I added the single down draught weber. Low Lancer: too true, try and find the bigger engine for some of these car. I myself, have never seens a 2lt which slots in my car for sale, though they have 1000s of them in aussie. Well, not true, but they were wanting over $1000 for a 20 year old motor with about 15kw more than my engine has. We'll see how it goes when my 1600 is all together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest LukeNukem Posted October 24, 2004 Share Posted October 24, 2004 Sorry, had a bad week, found out that the street stock races at the speedway were replace with a boyracer class... (which a chick in an auto mirage, 1300 won). 4G52, I found one outside my gf's work, in other words, someone dumped a fucked up wagon outside, that had a replacement 4G52 for me (last one dropped a piston). And right about now, theres 4 of them out at Bunnythorpe wreckers, and a few out Foxton wreckers (manawatu area), think they go for 200-400, depending on if its belt or chain drive. W8NSEE, I know, heck I even wrote it, but for a 1600, it will do fuck all, 1hp diff if your lucky, you prob wont even beable to enlarge the port much at all. And for how much it costs, you might as well get a new engine. lowlancer, making the pipeing a bit bigger, for a bigger engine is fine and dandy, but if you slap on a bumble bee lawnmower exhaust can instead of a silencer of some sort, its fucken pointless and does fucken zilch for your performance apart from being louder. Just get the koby (coby?) put where a catalytic or first silencer is (close to eng), and a slighty larger silencer at the end and your sweet (with the 2" pipes of course), not much louder, the coby gives it a nice little growl, and the flow is improved. Hell, go dual coby, one in the middle and one at the end and you have a decent exhaust flow plus a decent growling purr. But if your car ends up sounding like a large lawnmower..... Then your a "boy racer" compensating for something. Seriously dude, if want to do a quick cheap upgrade, go dual carbed, secondhand. But as soon as you think of doing getting a cam upgrade and headwork, find out how much it costs and save that for the bigger engine. And as far as I know, it costs fuck all to certify an engine that dropped in. About 50-100 depending on where you go. But you already spent 500 on a pointless exhaust workout when you should've looked at the engine first. Hell, you could've found a DOHC 1600 possibly, cant remember what model number they are though. The exhaust should come after you have done the engine and found out how much backpressure its creating, or once the engine seems to be getting costipated and chugging a bit, then from there you can work out what sort of exhaust system would be best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will_8v Posted October 24, 2004 Share Posted October 24, 2004 why wouldnt you port and polish the head when its running twin carbs, port n polishing just creates better flow making the engine more efficent, the more efficent an engine is the more power you will have. I think he's saying there are better things you could do with the same $ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
si Posted October 24, 2004 Share Posted October 24, 2004 JUST GET A BIGGER FUCKIN ENGINE.... ah okay then, 511cube V8's for everyone!!!! unforunatly mate, it doesnt always work this way, he may want to stay 1600 for a reason, maybe to preserve the the car in its 'factory' state, maybe he wants to enter in racing classes for <1600 cars, he may infact want to do alot of things hence why he asked about modding his engine not upsizing it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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