For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs

[Bearded Baldy]

5 hours ago, cletus said:

3mm will be fine if its gusseted correctly

 

how it is attached is important too

Awesome thanks for the info.

Was planning on using the mig to glue the steel version on, along the back edges touching my thumb and index finger. Is that allowed?

Final gussets to be moved depending on where the link hole actually goes in the slot.

[cletus]

it can be welded

lvvta has rules around mounting things to sides of chassis rails, that involve making sure the bracket spans the full height of the rail, to prevent oil canning

 

so i would suggest a bracket that achieves that, if youre making one anyway

 

 

 

[Bearded Baldy]

Wicky will have a play on the weekend and report back. Cheers mr Cletus.

[RUNAMUCK]

22 hours ago, cletus said:

it can be welded

lvvta has rules around mounting things to sides of chassis rails, that involve making sure the bracket spans the full height of the rail, to prevent oil canning

 

so i would suggest a bracket that achieves that, if youre making one anyway

 

 

 

What is "oil canning"?

The bracket must be full height, does it need to be glued on 100% too?

[RUNAMUCK]

I'm glad you posted this fun factoid, because I'm planning to glue things to the side of my ute chassis. (Surge tank mount, and battery tray)

[JustHarry]

4 minutes ago, RUNAMUCK said:

What is "oil canning"?

The bracket must be full height, does it need to be glued on 100% too?

If a load bearing bracket finished half way down the side of the chassis rail there is potential for the side to collapse inwards  

The top ans bottom is the strongest place to anchor to. 

Not sure what lvvta says but you'd want to stitch weld that so if a Crack did form it will stop at the end of the stich vs traveling the whole length of the bracket if fuly welded 

[cletus]

 

this is an example, an engine mount where the gusset ends on the side of the rail instead of at the bottom

[RXFORD]

That cracks fine. Its only 1/10th of the total weld surface area.

More importantly,it should fail cert for that horrible choice of chassis colour.

[RUNAMUCK]

Should those plates not welded to a doubler plate which is then welded to the chassis anyway?

[cletus]

that is an option, a plate to spread the load to the edges, that the mount is welded to

if the gusset spans the height of the rail, a plate wouldnt be required though

[cletus]

3 hours ago, RXFORD said:

That cracks fine. Its only 1/10th of the total weld surface area.

More importantly,it should fail cert for that horrible choice of chassis colour.

if they just keep welding the crack, eventually it will reach the lower edge of the rail anyway, problem solved

[chasinthemirage]

Alrighty dumb question time, been a very long time since I've bought a set of steel wheels for a vehicle so please forgive the dumb questions. What's the go with stud protrusion/thread engagement and where the rims contact the hub? The studs produde about 15mm through the rim but there's a reasonable amount of wheel nut not engaging with the stud, maybe slightly less than half of the nut? Studs are M12x1.5. Wheel nuts are open ended so maybe it looks worse than it is? There's probably tonnes of trucks getting about with the same thing going on. I'm also concerned about where the rim contacts the hub, looks like the outside of the rim mating surface is contacting the hub rather than the flat face around the studs. Is this correct? Hopefully I haven't just bought wheels that don't fit. 

[RXFORD]

If you have at least 6.5 full turns of the nuts on a 1.5p thread then you'll be gravy.

[Bearded Baldy]

Calling mr @cletus

How is this for a potential candidate?

Main structure would be made from 3mm mild steel angle, as shown in blue.

[cletus]

On 04/09/2026 at 20:26, chasinthemirage said:

Alrighty dumb question time, been a very long time since I've bought a set of steel wheels for a vehicle so please forgive the dumb questions. What's the go with stud protrusion/thread engagement and where the rims contact the hub? The studs produde about 15mm through the rim but there's a reasonable amount of wheel nut not engaging with the stud, maybe slightly less than half of the nut? Studs are M12x1.5. Wheel nuts are open ended so maybe it looks worse than it is? There's probably tonnes of trucks getting about with the same thing going on. I'm also concerned about where the rim contacts the hub, looks like the outside of the rim mating surface is contacting the hub rather than the flat face around the studs. Is this correct? Hopefully I haven't just bought wheels that don't fit. 

@RXFORD is correct, 6.5 turns is the minimum for a 12x 1.5

Steel wheels are designed to sit on that outer part and the center , that way when the nuts are torqued correctly the wheel is tensioned like a spring against the nuts

[cletus]

5 hours ago, Bearded Baldy said:

Calling mr @cletus

How is this for a potential candidate?

Main structure would be made from 3mm mild steel angle, as shown in blue.

Looks ok to me 

[Bearded Baldy]

Wickey thanks man.

Assuming i can glue it on both sides and the bottom edge, and ignore the top edge as it will be a shit to get a nice weld on?

And stitch weld with say 15mm gaps in between as @JustHarry suggested?

[sheepers]

im not up to speed with the ever changing landscape of cert rules so i need some clarification on suspension parts.

im going to put some coilovers  (tein probably) and some adjustable links on my GTR before cert.

questions,

is the rule still "must be a reputable brand" of fabricated arm? like cusco or Ikeya parts are considered OK?

are pillowball type joints still ok?

whats the latest iteration of camber rules? last time i looked into it it was something sensible like not allowed more than 1 degree from stock setting, is this still the rule? 

much appreciated. 

[Beaver]

2.2(10) A front or rear suspension system in a low volume vehicle, except in the case of a vehicle which is primarily designed and used for LVVTA-recognised motor sport events, and for which a current and valid LVV Authority Card has been issued, must incorporate no more than either:

(a) 1.5 degrees of negative camber; or

(b) one half of a degree of negative camber more than the maximum figure specified by the vehicle manufacturer, including any manufacturer-specified tolerance.

[cletus]

3 hours ago, sheepers said:

im not up to speed with the ever changing landscape of cert rules so i need some clarification on suspension parts.

im going to put some coilovers  (tein probably) and some adjustable links on my GTR before cert.

questions,

is the rule still "must be a reputable brand" of fabricated arm? like cusco or Ikeya parts are considered OK?

are pillowball type joints still ok?

whats the latest iteration of camber rules? last time i looked into it it was something sensible like not allowed more than 1 degree from stock setting, is this still the rule? 

much appreciated. 

Tein= good

Cusco= usually ok although the welding can be a bit poos sometimes

Ikeya formula have not seen a new set of those for years , only ones ive seen have been 20+ years old on Japanese imports 

Spherical bearings/heim joints/pillow balls etc can be ok if Teflon lined good quality and appropriate load rating 

I usually recommend hardrace for a street car as the bushes are a longer lasting choice 

Gktek is another good choice, if I was buying arms and wanted spherical joints thats what id use 

 

ALL adjustable arm manufacturers have issues occasionally so be aware of that, usually around clearances at full travel, weld quality or side loading threaded joints 

Personally id avoid aftermarket arms if you dont need them . 4wd skylines handle better a bit higher , usually only need arms if slammed, but then they drive shitty imo 

Camber max .5 deg over factory spec, or 1.5 deg negative, whichever is more