dmulally Posted July 30 Posted July 30 Apologies if it has been asked a billion times before but is it possible to derate a load capacity/gvm if swapping from a duallie diff to single wheel diff? The goal being to avoid a cof and less tyres to buy. Quote
Bearded Baldy Posted July 30 Posted July 30 When i emailled nzta about getting my camper dropped so it was on a wof they were not interested. Despite the fact that without a tray on the back it cannot take the 6t or whatever it is rated at. Because 'the manufacturer says the chassis is able to take the weight'. Ymmv 1 Quote
dmulally Posted July 31 Posted July 31 26 minutes ago, Bearded Baldy said: When i emailled nzta about getting my camper dropped so it was on a wof they were not interested. Despite the fact that without a tray on the back it cannot take the 6t or whatever it is rated at. Because 'the manufacturer says the chassis is able to take the weight'. Ymmv Campers are now on yearly inspections iirc. My problem is I've never seen the price of a COF not go up, it's 6 monthly, and my local COF guys are great, but would lean on a 50yo spindly toyoace the same as they would a late model Scania. Quote
cletus Posted July 31 Posted July 31 not as of late, ive asked a couple of times in the past few years about reducing the GVM of vehicles and been told no apparently its an NZTA thing not lvvta 2 1 Quote
Bearded Baldy Posted July 31 Posted July 31 45 minutes ago, dmulally said: Campers are now on yearly inspections iirc. My problem is I've never seen the price of a COF not go up, it's 6 monthly, and my local COF guys are great, but would lean on a 50yo spindly toyoace the same as they would a late model Scania. Yearly inspection on camper cof if the camper is certified self contained. Which mine isn't due to the fact the toilet can be removed. The toilet has it's own cupboard built into the shower wall from the factory, so i refuse to see the need to also fit a fixed toilet. And the fact i have not used it for anything other than a spare room for the last 2 years really doesn't inspire me to change my ways. 1 Quote
Vintage Grumble Posted August 3 Posted August 3 Are aftermarket camber bolts legit to use, as in not an item that needs certification? I would like to add some on the front on the swift when I chuck the lowering springs in. Cheers!!!! Quote
Beaver Posted August 3 Posted August 3 4 minutes ago, Vintage Grumble said: Are aftermarket camber bolts legit to use, as in not an item that needs certification? I would like to add some on the front on the swift when I chuck the lowering springs in. Cheers!!!! https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplementary_information/LVVTA_LVV_Cert_Threshold.pdf Table 9-1 says no cert needed as long as the bolts/bushings are: designed as a means of correcting or improving wheel alignment; and catalogued aftermarket items for that make and model of vehicle. 2 1 Quote
xsspeed Posted August 3 Posted August 3 What about wedge shaped shims for twist beam rear camber/toe correction? Quote
Vintage Grumble Posted August 3 Posted August 3 U WOT M8? I wasn't going to touch the back, not getting that carried away. Yet. Quote
xsspeed Posted August 3 Posted August 3 Lol i was meaning for me but sure These are the ones I have, but I need to get an alignment done and current measurements before deciding if I actually need these or not Quote
cletus Posted August 4 Posted August 4 Not sure how a note works but on a prius the same thing causes the disc to be on the piss relative to the caliper You can buy some plastic bullshit adjustable spacers for prius but they seem to be a disaster waiting to happen to me Last prius I did had ok camber but a lot of toe in , it was even both sides so not bent, after considering all the options (all of which seemed like worse ideas than just replacing tyres a bit more often ) it was decided best to leave it as it was , as it drove fine 1 1 Quote
kws Posted August 4 Posted August 4 I've only seen them used on drum rear ends, where they go between the rear beam and the stub/drum 1 Quote
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