For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs

[xsspeed]

Yeah that makes sense. How would one go about that with lvvta, is that a machine the upright then get NDT type pathway. The material of the uprights themselves would appear to be chunky enough seeing the EL GT uprights (and AU+) are essentially the same and have caliper bolted

 

Re hub the other way people did in AU was machine a EF disc/hub down so it just a hub and slide a rotor over that (creates a ~+8mm offset change unless you machine down the face of the EF hub itself - how illegal is this likely to be in nz lol

[cletus]

id have to see it, and make sure theres no issues,

if its obviously ok ie can compare the castings and the later/gt ones are the same and theres not extra thickness for the mounting holes then a certifier can probably make the call,

if its different /weaker etc then, if its obviously no good, cant be done,

if i think its ok then id submit info to lvvta to see whether they can approve it, or they need further info like FEA etc

 

its not something i would get involved with if its just a "i might buy this car someday, can i do this" situation as tbh this sort of thing sucks up a huge amount of time emailing back and forth

[Nominal]

The LVVTA seem to answer questions on their forum regularly

Technical Talk | LVVTA Forum

 

[xsspeed]

Cheers, yeah I get that

psuedo edit: was about to ask if theres an avenue to talk to lvvta without using your time clint, nominal has answered

[Valiant]

@xsspeed

You should buy an E series Falcon.

[Nominal]

41 minutes ago, Valiant said:

@xsspeed

You should buy an E series Falcon.

Join the team

[xsspeed]

I pine for ef/el fairmont ghias, that was like youd made it in life spec/just about breaking out of middle class in the 90s. Bur like I say brakes are shit and the engines not much better. Fortunately ford later made the world's greatest RB in the early 2000s

[igor]

I never found anything wrong with E series Falcon brakes. Maybe I wasn't thrashing them hard enough. 

[xsspeed]

They are good enough for burnouts is that what you mean

/spam

[oldrx7]

18 hours ago, Valiant said:

@xsspeed

You should buy an E series Falcon.

Yes - stop wasting Clint's time and just buy one.

[cletus]

also, it depends what you are going to do with the car, if its just a road car with a bit more power then a set of decent quality pads and some slotted rotors will likely be just fine. the police used E series so im picking they can hold up to a bit of abuse with the right pads

 

if you are going to use it on race tracks or do a lot of enthusiastic back road driving then maybe not

[igor]

@Lord Gruntfuttock, what are you guys running on the rally car? 

[xsspeed]

what brakes?

[jakesae101]

So I have one of the new Jimnys and when lifted they require the lower crossmember to be dropped to stop the driveshaft rubbing during droop etc.

 

theres 2 different methods ether a spacer or a drop crossmember 

 

Am i correct in saying ether of these options would require cert? 

[cletus]

Yes

From memory you will probably need Caster correction arms as well so you would be best to do all the mods you plan on doing and get it certed 1 time 

[vk327]

Wanting to confirm detail on welding coilovers (xyz from speedfactor) to factory commodore strut tubes, im sure there used to be an info sheet somewhere but cant find it.

basic sketch attached but from memory, full circumference weld at least 10mm above the bottom spindle/knuckle, 4x plug welds around the tube 12mm dia hole, and minimum 1 diameter of strut tube inserted in the coilover weld sleeve. Full ndt to section 18.9.2 with mag particle? Or is dye pen okay? 

[RXFORD]

Close. 

 

Its minimum 10mm from the WELD to oem knuckle. So safe to say 15mm between new strut tube and knuckle to allow for weld.

However from experience, the design of the knuckle dictates how far away the new strut tube should be placed. Sometimes the caliper brackets or knuckle webbing get in the way of the the torch end/neck. If you get a bad tungsten angle you will get undercut or lack of fill on one of the faces. So I would suggest mocking up before you cut the original strut tube too short and seeing if you can get a nice consistant tungsten angle without the neck hitting the knuckle. You may find it has to be pushed away from knuckle a bit more.

 

Its 2 x 10mm plug welds or 4x 8mm.

 

Also must be tig welded

[RXFORD]

Also, if you havn't brought the coilovers already, might pay to measure the original tube diam, vs the internal diam of the new tube. 

I've had to have 3 pairs of new threaded tubes remade to be a tight fit over the years, as BC tubes can have too much clearance and be bit sloppy for some vehicles.

[cletus]

Suspension Systems

Matt covered it but the requirements are in the suspension standard on lvvta.org.nz page 13 and 14

 

NDT to be to the standard specified in chapter 18 of the CCM

[vk327]

Sweet should be all sussed got the kit from speed factor so suited to the commodore tube size, gonna get one of the boiler welders at work to tig them up for me (hes good at welding boiler tube backwards upside down and in a mirror so these will be easy) our ndt guys are on site at the moment so should be able to get that sorted at the same time