For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs

[mjrstar]

I'm helping nephew get his pos fg falcon re-registered. During the inspection it was picked up on the usual sort if stuff, but also that the tail lights had no 'e' markings. The lights look to be oem. I also checked my ute and they don't appear to have markings either.

Is there a way around this with some sort of documentation or other suggestions?

 

[tortron]

Bolt this to the bumper and remove after vin

[cletus]

2 hours ago, mjrstar said:

I'm helping nephew get his pos fg falcon re-registered. During the inspection it was picked up on the usual sort if stuff, but also that the tail lights had no 'e' markings. The lights look to be oem. I also checked my ute and they don't appear to have markings either.

Is there a way around this with some sort of documentation or other suggestions?

 

I've never looked, but maybe pull one out and have a look on the back side of the housing? 

It must have something somewhere if its an oem light 

[mjrstar]

I'm getting him to strip the boot liner out and get access. I'm sure the inspection dude will be all good if the rear of the housing has a Ford stamp and an oem part number.

Seems odd that there is no E marking on the lens all the same. As I believe it's worded for compliance that it must be visible externally.

[Raizer]

3 hours ago, mjrstar said:

I'm getting him to strip the boot liner out and get access. I'm sure the inspection dude will be all good if the rear of the housing has a Ford stamp and an oem part number.

Seems odd that there is no E marking on the lens all the same. As I believe it's worded for compliance that it must be visible externally.

Markings are on the back, and likely you won't find an E mark, Aus uses ADA and they were made by Hella Australia for Ford.

My German also has Hella lights and there is no marking on the lenses front or back, just in the molded backings.

[Muncie]

More Modern car Questions..... So i've fitted VE Clubsport seats to my VY Commodore the internet insisted this was a plug and play option, youll be shocked to learn its not quite that.

They bolt straight in once the VY rail set were swapped on with the VY pretensioners. did most of the electrics plug in kind of, the power for actuators actually did plug in the airbags for the Seats themselves do not.

I've though about a few dodgy methods the forum world suggests but the image of Clint jamming me into my own boot and closing it put me off. 

i've removed the VY air bags from old seats and they are a tidy 2 bolt module that sits sub shoulder height i can insert these without modification into the VE seats fairly easy into the existing airbag pocket. is this the acceptable method to pass cert and keep the SRS system happy?

No dodgy parts tricks or timewasting mods will be on car, legit wanting the Cert person to have a good day when i send this in.

(I will have an uncut Bumper bar fitted for cert @cletus) its on shelf at moment ready to go on with a smaller intercooler.

[cletus]

I dont know, I'd have to contact lvvta and see what they say, as airbag mods without knowing what's going to happen when they go off are generally a no go, when its to do with frontal impact bags.

For example lvvta does not allow the fitment of aftermarket airbag wheels where they have a slightly different shape rim /carbon inserts/ retrim with fancy materials but use the factory airbag 

 

However there is no side impact requirement so side impact bags can be removed.

But i don't know about when they are modified and still fitted as people usually want to remove an airbag seat and fit a $150 fake bride one 

[Muncie]

Oh that changes things. I'd prefer to not have them anyway as long as its certable I can get that loop turned off and not muck around with 20 year old explosives if I dont need to.

[cletus]

On 19/04/2026 at 19:03, cletus said:

Probably easier to leave the airbags in the seats disconnected, as it may raise questions , if the seats are from a later model/different design car , are the bags going to work, or is the bag going to deploy and knock your head off because the pillar is closer etc ? 

 

https://lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_01-2020_Removal_of_Front_Seats_Fitted_with_Side_Airbags.pdf

 

[Muncie]

Thanks @cletus I missed that last response. Have read the information sheets and got a way forward i think.

[Zeubin]

Hi team,

Question regarding what requires a Cert.

About 7 or 8 years ago I took the stock rear lower control arms out of my 240z and replaced them with these ones:

https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/rear-lower-control-arms-datsun-240z-260z-280z

The reason was that there is no adjustment in the stock arms and the left side had toe-in enough to be visibly out of alignment. Assuming a minor collision on that corner in the distant past.

Anyway... The Techno toy arms worked a treat and I got a beaut wheel alignment out of it, happy days.

Now in the back of my mind I am thinking my insurance company might have grounds to weasel out of paying out if my car were to be damaged in an accident due to the aftermarket adjustable part installed not being certified. I have had 20+ WOF's from 8 or so different workshops including VTNZ since installing and none have mentioned the adjustable arms.

For the sake of the nagging doubt re insurance in my mind, does the replaced part require a cert? I know it doesn't matter that it made the car safer etc. and I know insurance companies make money by denying claims.

If it does need a cert, what would be my next step? Based in Chch.

Thanks in advance!

[cletus]

3 hours ago, Zeubin said:

Hi team,

Question regarding what requires a Cert.

About 7 or 8 years ago I took the stock rear lower control arms out of my 240z and replaced them with these ones:

https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/rear-lower-control-arms-datsun-240z-260z-280z

The reason was that there is no adjustment in the stock arms and the left side had toe-in enough to be visibly out of alignment. Assuming a minor collision on that corner in the distant past.

Anyway... The Techno toy arms worked a treat and I got a beaut wheel alignment out of it, happy days.

Now in the back of my mind I am thinking my insurance company might have grounds to weasel out of paying out if my car were to be damaged in an accident due to the aftermarket adjustable part installed not being certified. I have had 20+ WOF's from 8 or so different workshops including VTNZ since installing and none have mentioned the adjustable arms.

For the sake of the nagging doubt re insurance in my mind, does the replaced part require a cert? I know it doesn't matter that it made the car safer etc. and I know insurance companies make money by denying claims.

If it does need a cert, what would be my next step? Based in Chch.

Thanks in advance!

Yes 100% needs cert 

Jody Thompson is the man in chch to deal with, he's a gc 

I'd suggest doing any other mods you might be planning on before you do your cert , as its all based on photos now so you are locked in to the combo you have when its certed now. Ie if you were planning on changing your wheels or doing engine mods etc 

[SiRge]

Get your own advice, however....

A friend who's an underwriter for insurance company said that unless the modified part was a contributing factor to the incident, then they are obligated to cover you. There's case law where people pass wofs and are not sure of what's modified or not from previous owners and they're still 100% covered. 

If you buy chinesium wheels and they explode on the motorway and you have a head-on. It'd be a reasonable assumption you're not covered. 

Legal and disclosed is generally always covered, but not legal and not disclosed doesn't always mean not covered. 

However, get a cert, it's probably cheaper than trying to fight it

[Bling]

That's along the same lines of not losing cover if WOF / REGO not current, unless something contributed to the accident that wasn't up to WOF spec. Just have to keep in mind why adjustable arms and the likes need a cert, because they can be made out of cheese. Or made from inappropriate parts that are not acceptable here, but in Florida for example cheese is likely acceptable so long as it doesn't breach EPA rules. 

[cletus]

It will depend on how cunty the insurance company wants to be 

Last Tuesday I had to write a report for a guy because his Toyota prius got sideswiped, the insurance company were saying it should not have been complied with the suspension it had in it 

Which was original,  it was a G's edition which just has lowered springs , but factory fitted  

[RUNAMUCK]

@d.p.n.s once told.me a story from the UK where an insurance assessor would decline cover after finding a "performance" K&N air filter......

Insurance companies are the worst kind of human garbage. (They're right up there with pedophiles, politicians, journalists, and evangelical church types) 

[xsspeed]

For cast suspension elements (e series falcon uprights, specifically ef/el) I get the general no welding to cast rule, are you allowed to cut/grind or even drill and tap?

Topic is bigger brakes than factory for e series falcons, the uprights/cast stub axle what the spindle is on has these "ears" that are there to hold the brake pads in place (calipers themselves go over the pads but don't hold them)

Now these ears are set Radial to the centre but also mean you can't put on a larger disc

The way around this is to cut/grind the ears back, use larger disc and use a bracket to space the calipers further out

Is this certable?

Part two is the front discs are integrated with hub/bearing. If there was a bolt on hub that could then receive a slip on rotor would this also be allowed? (Essentially this is what hoppers stoppers in AU do for their kits)

[cletus]

i did cert one years ago that had the mount tabs machined off and some bigger discs put on, and some other flavour of caliper, which involved making some holes bigger? it was a bit of mucking around

 

dunno if it would be do able now though, would likely require LVVTAs input

 

i think the last e series i did with a brake upgrade had later AU stuff on it as they have a normal type caliper 

seperate hub for a slip on rotor is fine as long as its suitable material

[xsspeed]

yeah you end up using AU/PBR (or other calipers) doing it this way - i dont get why you'd need bigger holes for a bracket unless thats a load transfer thing (I'll look into that)

alternate is mount an AU/BA/FG subframe in, but that involves cutting open structure and welding in new crush tubes etc which feels a lot harder (some upside in better suspension/steering geometry/systems

i was looking at all this with my old ef wag in the 00s before it got rear ended and written off, then i got the BA. Currently got E series itch again so pondering a purchase but the stock brakes are beyond shit so looking for an easy (lol) path. (edit: it used to be you could use EL GT uprights which have bigger brakes, i cant remember if still integrated hub disc or slip on but these uprights are NLA)

[cletus]

the two bits that stick out take the brake loads- ie the brake pads transfer the braking effort to the suspension upright via those

from memory the caliper slides bolt to the spindle probably via an 8mm boltx2, but this is only attaching the caliper not taking any load

a normal caliper does transfer the brake load via the 2 bolts that attach the caliper assembly to the upright, so the bolts have to be a lot bigger