shizzl Posted January 15 Posted January 15 Not attached to any topic in particular, but this is the result of my latest lvvta journey. lower control arm coil to Coilover conversion. this was the only major item that needed addressing during cert. apparently due to a Camaro lower arm failure after fitting QA1s like I had done. Lvvta sent out a memo stating this can no longer be accepted. Not sure all the facts and details, just what I was told. so, after a couple of emails to lvvta and the certifier I managed to get the lower arm design approved that I had crudely mocked up for Nats to get the ute low with the coilovers. it just meant that I needed to dig out all mig weld material and have them Tig’d up and NDT. and these photos are the result. also added in a photo someone sent me of their own “strengthening “ work for cert. Not sure if that one has passed yet. Top 2 photos are the standard arm. next 2 are the freshly tig’d arm ready for NDT. fairly easy process really. Just time consuming with the ping pong design options. Happy with the result though. it means I now have a completed project that is fully legal. 7 1 Quote
rusty360 Posted January 15 Posted January 15 Random question re cert welding. Do they require tig rather than mig because it takes a bit more skill so should be a better weld?? Quote
shizzl Posted January 15 Posted January 15 I believe much of it is due to mig welds being more prone to cracking. So critical components to be tig welded. you can do mig spot welds and tig spot welds, the tig spot welds can be hammered and are somewhat softer, the mig spot welds tend to crack. im sure there’s a more technical explanation Quote
ThePog Posted January 19 Posted January 19 @cletus If I swapped an alternate gearbox into my X1/9 a common issue is the clearance to the underside of rear passenger chassis rail. Is it possible to notch this for clearance? Quote
cletus Posted January 19 Posted January 19 yes. what you have to do in the way of strengthening it will depend how much of a notch it is Quote
ThePog Posted January 19 Posted January 19 4 minutes ago, cletus said: yes. what you have to do in the way of strengthening it will depend how much of a notch it is Ok sweet Quote
oldrx Posted January 30 Posted January 30 Ball joint angle, photo is when jacking up the control arm until the vehicle body just starts to move. I know the susp has to hit the bump stop before the ball joint binds but how does one determine this? Quote
cletus Posted January 30 Posted January 30 Best way is to take the spring and bump stop out,jack the suspension up until something binds or it stops moving, then make sure the bump stop limits the travel before that point That looks like not much angle , you might find the tyre gets into the guard before any joints bind 1 Quote
oldrx Posted January 30 Posted January 30 Presumably the susp has to hit the bump stop before the tyre hits the gaurd? Quote
NickJ Posted February 1 Posted February 1 I'm assuming this is a no, but is there any way to easily adapt a suitably spaced seat to offset hight factory seat rails? In the Lada, the inner seat rail sits about 50mm higher than the outer. If I slipped a length of SHS in there to put all the mounts on the same plane and is all bolted up, would that overly trigger the wof man? Current seats are flimsy and i'd love something modern, just adding re-cert to the list of things to get it back on the road is not high on the wishlist Quote
Bearded Baldy Posted February 3 Posted February 3 Sorry. Virm table 7-1-1 For unstressed seats, so no belt or buckle attached to seat or rails. 'the seat components (including brackets, runners and rails) are compatible with each other, i.e. they are either OE components from a production vehicle or of a known and reputable aftermarket brand' 1 Quote
igor Posted February 9 Posted February 9 How important is the "I have sold a car" form? Does it matter if one does not fill this in? I never got around to it when I sold my red Falcon last year. Quote
Bling Posted February 9 Posted February 9 What it can mean is that any fines, rego and the likes will still be your responsibility if the other party also didn't fill in any paperwork. If they did and it's no longer showing under your ownership, probably no big deal. Bit hard to dispute a 12 month rego bill if the car rego is left to lapse if you haven't done that bit. If you have proof of change of ownership, then you have to convince anyone chasing you for money, that you sold it. Changing in online (super easy and quick) tends to remove the need to do those things. 1 Quote
xsspeed Posted February 9 Posted February 9 you list the date of sale so i would just do it anyway however you need the buyers address. failing that, i would ring them and say you sold it on x date but they never gave me their address 1 Quote
tortron Posted February 9 Posted February 9 I did the sold a car form about 4 times for one, and it never went through. I ended up calling nzta and they said yup we see you submitted it but it never went through (also we never contacted you to say that) and apparently that part of the system just doesnt work and no one has ever thought to do anything about it Anyway. What you need to to is actually ring them and they will take it out of your name (always get the buyer to do it on the spot, but sometimes the phone system/internet is down at thatbtime) 1 Quote
igor Posted February 9 Posted February 9 So if the purchaser has filled in their form I'm sweet? 2 Quote
Bling Posted February 9 Posted February 9 You can check online if you still own a vehicle. Or the NZTA has a phone app if you want to be hip and stuff. 1 Quote
kws Posted February 10 Posted February 10 On 09/02/2026 at 14:03, igor said: How important is the "I have sold a car" form? Does it matter if one does not fill this in? I never got around to it when I sold my red Falcon last year. I never do them. Just don't let the buyer take the car without changing it into their name first (do it online on the spot). *have sold about... 70 cars. 2 1 Quote
JamesWalker Posted Saturday at 06:11 Posted Saturday at 06:11 Just replaced all my rear leaf bushes for wof and they were all still mint just some weathering/cracking on the exposed part of the edges. They were done about 2 years ago so I figured this would be the case. Do they test play on these or is there a guideline on the aesthetic look of the outer edge/some safety issue im missing here? Quote
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