Bling Posted September 16 Posted September 16 You already know the answer, it's not like you need them for a 1/4 mile at a time. For those 23 seconds, you'll be free. 1 Quote
RUNAMUCK Posted September 18 Posted September 18 Wof experts, Is there any rules around brightness of indicators? As in, can they be too bright? So I bought some Aliexpress motorcycle indicators. However in classic me style, I somehow fucked up, and ordered USDM style ones. (Clear with red bulbs) pulling them apart, I discovered they used a brake/tail light type bulb holder. (Taking a twin filament stop/tail red coloured bulb) in disgust, I ordered some matching bulbs which are yellow instead of red. They're twin filament. And have different wattages. (Same as the red ones) I'm thinking I may as well join to the 12v+ wires together, and run really bright rear indicators. Aside from possiby smoking the flasher relay from the extra load, (tunable flash speed replacements are sub $5 off ali) is there any VIRM based reason why this might be Verboten? Motorcycles are invisible to cunts in cars most of the time anyway. Surely a more substantial "oi cunt, I'm in front of you, and I'm going this way" is a positive? 1 Quote
RUNAMUCK Posted September 18 Posted September 18 As bright as a brake light shouldn't dazzle though right? Quote
cletus Posted September 18 Posted September 18 Probably OK? Murican cars flash the brake light as an indicator,and it won't be brighter than that ? 1 Quote
ul9601 Posted September 18 Posted September 18 yeah failed the wof with aliex led in place of incandescent blub for front indicators (orange bulbs with clear diffused lens, housed in the headlight) for my car, citing too bright, significant dazzle etc etc. but then this same guy failed me on tint vlt by eyeball check, told me to go back to tint shop and get a tint o meter reading and have it signed, which came back 35% spot on. i reckon he needs his eyes recalibrated. imo, which is worth nothing, however, with indicator incorporated in the headlight housing and sharing the same lens tends to be too close to the headlight source itself and quite often i cant quite make out the indicator until i get very close to it, especially dipped beam on as DRL. 3 Quote
RUNAMUCK Posted September 18 Posted September 18 Modern cars in general the indicators seem to be tucked away/hidden inside a massive clear/chrome headlight unit. I have to stare really hard at them to spot a weak yellow blinking light at round a bouts. 5 Quote
ul9601 Posted September 18 Posted September 18 J0? too much chrome for my taste... (ban!) i think some compensate by adding secondary indicator repeater on mirror, which kind of makes sense, more close to eye level than headlight Quote
igor Posted September 18 Posted September 18 Agree the chrome grill looks wrong, should be body coloured as should the bumper. 2 Quote
ul9601 Posted September 18 Posted September 18 14 minutes ago, igor said: Agree the chrome grill looks wrong, should be body coloured as should the bumper. yeah forgot about the trafficatrator - isnt that awesome (i wouldnt know but looks great and also it could take out bicyclists i suppose you should pre-indicate before indicate with trafficatrzor...) Quote
Muncie Posted September 20 Posted September 20 Hi, While i have motor and box out of my commodore it seems like an ideal time to put the driveshaft hoops in for when i go for cert later on. ive got a few more things i want to do before i cert for the turbo so will be going in for wof Naturally aspirated again will i get pinged for driveshaft hoops? I'm undecided for now on whether to go Coilovers and possibly an 8HP Transmission hence i'm dicking around going for cert but still want to use car in meantime so will keep it just scraping under the cert threshold for another year. TLDR will driveshaft hoops stop me getting a WOF before cert? Quote
cletus Posted September 20 Posted September 20 Going by the book,yes as drilling the holes in the floor weakens it according to the modification threshold,and drive shaft loops are not in the threshold. 1 Quote
Bearded Baldy Posted September 20 Posted September 20 Will also make wof guy wonder how he is getting set up, and will make him triple check everything just fyi. 2 1 2 Quote
Popular Post RUNAMUCK Posted September 21 Popular Post Posted September 21 ^I once took a little white datsun to get a wof at the local garage.on the surface ot appeared reasonably kosher. However the particularly grumpy old wof guy, (he was always grumpy) asked "what is that bracket for?!" (Rerring to a particularly beefy steel bracket hanging off the side of the engine) being a gifted bullshit artist, I quickly assured him I had a very powerful stereo to put in the car, and that was where I was going to mount a second alternator so the battery doesn't go flat" He shook his head and grumbled and gave me my wof. No sir, it's definately not to hang a belt driven barometric compensator on....... 7 12 Quote
Muncie Posted September 25 Posted September 25 On 21/09/2025 at 10:50, cletus said: Going by the book,yes as drilling the holes in the floor weakens it according to the modification threshold,and drive shaft loops are not in the threshold. Oh well, driveshaft out isn't too much of a big deal to fit them. This will be last time reverting to stock for a wof, my wof guy told me not to fit the brakes before WOF too. Quote
gibbon Posted September 30 Posted September 30 any rules regarding fuel component location? I need to fit an electric pump/regulator/filter in the GT6, and the easiest and best packaged place is right at the very rear of the spare wheel cavity, essentially the absolute rearmost position of the car. I appreciate that it puts the fuel system right in the line of fire the the event of a nose to tail but the fuel tank itself is pretty much right there as well. OK to fit there or does it need to be some nominal distance inside the footprint for crash reasons? Quote
cletus Posted September 30 Posted September 30 That will be fine there is nothing in the book about rear end protection apart from making sure things don't hang down where they can get damaged by kerbs etc 1 Quote
shizzl Posted October 17 Posted October 17 I’m sure I’ve read this somewhere in the CCM, but haven’t been able to find it again (tonight anyway). what is the minimum suspension travel required from normal position? is it 40mm from the bump stop to chassis? I know the rule for droop. does this also apply to the front bump stop clearance? im sure I have had this info in a screenshot somewhere. Quote
RXFORD Posted October 17 Posted October 17 Assuming its for your ute, rear is 40mm each way with a min 25mm progressive style rubber bumpstop mounted between axle and frame. Front is generally measured out at guard. So if the bumpstop is mounted halfway out on the lower arm, it will be in ~2:1 ratio meaning you can have 20mm of gap between bumpstop and still get 40mm travel out at wheel/guard. Just keep in mind the measurements are meant to factor in an average weight person in each seating position that will be certed. Plus other things like tyre rubbing inner guards when turning or radius arm hitting steering idler etc comes into play up front. 2 Quote
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