For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs

[kws]

I know the answer (no), but there is no way to skirt the cert requirement for carb to EFI conversion is there? IE: If i went from SU carb to a basic injection setup, on the same engine, with no other changes (other than the required supporting mods to fuel system etc)

[Nominal]

Don't we blame @ajg193 for the updated rules?

[Bearded Baldy]

Yeah that change is why my falcon has gone from rust repairs and fit a fitech/basic efi system, to now having late model seats, brakes and diff upgrade, and more rust.

Problem with having a car off the road for too many years lol. If it has to go through cert then it may as well have a few things done for comfort and driving enjoyment.

[ajg193]

1 hour ago, kws said:

I know the answer (no), but there is no way to skirt the cert requirement for carb to EFI conversion is there? IE: If i went from SU carb to a basic injection setup, on the same engine, with no other changes (other than the required supporting mods to fuel system etc)

No way around it now.

Gotta pay to be the boss.

[JustHarry]

Or just tune a carb 

[Nominal]

3 hours ago, kws said:

I know the answer (no), but there is no way to skirt the cert requirement for carb to EFI conversion is there? IE: If i went from SU carb to a basic injection setup, on the same engine, with no other changes (other than the required supporting mods to fuel system etc)

Just swap the system over once a year for WOF?

 

[kws]

Thats a shame, it'd be an awesome project to inject the old E series engine but not worth having to cert for it. Guess I'll whack the twin carbs on and make dorts instead.

I did wonder why they outlawed the conversion, and thats clears it up. Too many people using the wrong hose/pipes/filters to handle the higher fuel pressure, I guess.

[Adoom]

So the Triumph has the factory fuel tank in the boot. There are many many many holes and passages between the boot and the passenger compartment, it would not be easy to seal.
Its got strut towers now, so the original tank won't fit and I need to make a custom one.
Reading the CCM, I think I just need something like a tray kinda thing under the tank to catch any leak and drain to outside the car?
I only need to seal the boot from the passenger compartment if the filler is inside the boot?
Or have I missed something...

[RXFORD]

If there are any fuel system joins inside the boot, you need to seal the passenger compartment. So any hose joins/clamps/fittings that can be removed are a possible leak/weep point.

If you somehow managed to build a setup that had all lines attached underneath the floor, and it filled/vented from outside the boot, then maybe they wouldn't make you seal the passenger compartment off. But this would be difficult.

Technically you only need to seal those areas. So if you built a sealed enclosure around the fuel system in boot, then you wouldn't have to try and seal up the pillars and all those cavities. 

[shizzl]

Can’t you create another box/lid to sit over the tank which seals to the floor, vent it out with a rollover valve and a drain?

 

 

[Adoom]

8 hours ago, RXFORD said:

If there are any fuel system joins inside the boot, you need to seal the passenger compartment. So any hose joins/clamps/fittings that can be removed are a possible leak/weep point.

If you somehow managed to build a setup that had all lines attached underneath the floor, and it filled/vented from outside the boot, then maybe they wouldn't make you seal the passenger compartment off. But this would be difficult.

Technically you only need to seal those areas. So if you built a sealed enclosure around the fuel system in boot, then you wouldn't have to try and seal up the pillars and all those cavities. 

I don't think I can make an enclosure work because of the filler neck hose. Anything I imagine is blocking access to the hose clips for that hose.
Seems like I'm going to have to seal all the gaps and holes and cavities and have some removable panels to allow access where needed.

[RXFORD]

16 hours ago, Adoom said:

I don't think I can make an enclosure work because of the filler neck hose. Anything I imagine is blocking access to the hose clips for that hose.
Seems like I'm going to have to seal all the gaps and holes and cavities and have some removable panels to allow access where needed.

I've posted this before somewhere but forgot where. Did this setup a few years ago on a 323 hatch. I deleted the spare wheel well, and made an underfloor ali tank to suit. Owner wanted to use the factory fill point, but the tank was so high compared to stock, that the only way fill it from the stock location was to modify the the filler neck and have it pass through the boot area to clear the chassis rail, through the floor and into the top of tank. Because there was one hose clamp above floor level, I had to make a sealed cover for it.

Yours might be a bit different but its food for thought. 

[Adoom]

So the tank goes up here in the factory location. The towers prevent the original tank from fitting. It's also the highest part of the floorpan...

The top circle is where the hoses attach. The top of the tank is actually lower than the filler neck.

The filler neck passes through a cavity between the inner and outer guard.

There are...... a couple of holes and gaps. The bottom of the C-Pillar seems closed off, but there is a gap.

The slope of the floorpan complicates sealing this lower hole because any leaked fuel would pool behind it.

[RXFORD]

Is that filler neck bit that the hose attaches to removable from body?

If so, then you could extended it to a point where the hose gets clamped on in a better spot for building a sealed enclosure.

You shouldn't need to to enclose the full filler neck then. Just area where the join would be. 

[Adoom]

1 hour ago, RXFORD said:

Is that filler neck bit that the hose attaches to removable from body?

If so, then you could extended it to a point where the hose gets clamped on in a better spot for building a sealed enclosure.

You shouldn't need to to enclose the full filler neck then. Just area where the join would be. 

Nah, it's not removable without cutting and drilling welds. I don't think I want to go there.

[Muncie]

Well its time to revert the holden to wof spec before drag day. Easy enough after the last time around turbo and intercooler off 45 minutes to an hours work,

Am I on shaky ground fitting my HSV Brakes before the Wof though? They are made by gm to fit my car...... I just dont want any dramas.

Yes im going to cert it soon but I just want to financially recover from the new engine first and maybe chuck some coilovers in before I see cert man so its finished. 

[Muncie]

On 03/09/2025 at 15:34, Adoom said:

Nah, it's not removable without cutting and drilling welds. I don't think I want to go there.

When i built my triumph years ago I fitted a drop tank and early mk1 style side hump for spare wheel, way easier to seal off the floor than where stock tank went. But then drop tank problems......

[cletus]

6 minutes ago, Muncie said:

Well its time to revert the holden to wof spec before drag day. Easy enough after the last time around turbo and intercooler off 45 minutes to an hours work,

Am I on shaky ground fitting my HSV Brakes before the Wof though? They are made by gm to fit my car...... I just dont want any dramas.

Yes im going to cert it soon but I just want to financially recover from the new engine first and maybe chuck some coilovers in before I see cert man so its finished. 

Technically requires cert for brake upgrade 

 

Whether anyone would notice? Dunno 

[cletus]

On 03/09/2025 at 12:10, Adoom said:

So the tank goes up here in the factory location. The towers prevent the original tank from fitting. It's also the highest part of the floorpan...

The top circle is where the hoses attach. The top of the tank is actually lower than the filler neck.

The filler neck passes through a cavity between the inner and outer guard.

There are...... a couple of holes and gaps. The bottom of the C-Pillar seems closed off, but there is a gap.

The slope of the floorpan complicates sealing this lower hole because any leaked fuel would pool behind it.

We had training last week

This was actually one of the subjects

So basically

If the tank is filled outside the vehicle,and

Any pressurized hoses,pump etc is under the car- not in the boot,and

There's a drain tray and drain outside 

Then you don't have to seal the boot off from the passenger compartment.  

 

 

If I was in your position,I would still recommend a decent sealed wall behind the seat, but it's technically not required 

[Muncie]

I just dont want to put him on spot over brakes as it would suck to have to pull them off.

10 minutes ago, cletus said:

Technically requires cert for brake upgrade 

 

Whether anyone would notice? Dunno 

These aren't really going to be easy to hide.