kp60nick Posted July 7, 2025 Posted July 7, 2025 This is the appeal with cars, you can have the same chassis but use completely different parts to get a machine thats personalized for you. I've spoken to Brynn quite a bit about his set up. I think he had to get custom axles. I've just acquired the zcd16 from his 4wd integra for a swap at a later date. Atm my focus has been trying to keep it light and corner well. Power to come later. Brynn and I have talked about hrv and logo and capa which all share similar chassis. Last I spoke to him he was still on the lookout for the capa sway bar because it has a decent girth. 1 Quote
GARDRB Posted July 7, 2025 Posted July 7, 2025 On 06/07/2025 at 20:10, cletus said: https://lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_05-2010_Bump-steer_Swing-check_Procedure.pdf Nothing says New Zealand quite like this Quote The increments provided for raising and lowering the suspension are a guide only. Utilise a selection of timber off-cuts in varying sizes from your local timber yard. Also: This doc is a great read... https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_04-2010_Bump-steer_Measurement_Background_Information.pdf Also... More giggles 2 Quote
anglia4 Posted July 9, 2025 Posted July 9, 2025 My Galaxie is advertised from new as being a 10-seat option and I want to register it as such. Being a 67, it doesn't require rear seat belts, so I'm not fussed about that. But to achieve the 10-seat thing, it has 3 seats across the front bench, but currently only 2 seat belts. I'm assuming I'll need the third lap belt in the front for my VIN check guys to sign it off as 10 seats. Is it OK to bolt in a lap belt that shares the bolt holes with the other two belts? I was just going to take out all of the rear belts and use one of them in the front for the inspection so that they all match. 1 Quote
igor Posted July 9, 2025 Posted July 9, 2025 15 minutes ago, anglia4 said: Is it OK to bolt in a lap belt that shares the bolt holes with the other two belts? This is exactly how the factory belts were fitted in my Falcons. 1 1 Quote
oldrx7 Posted July 9, 2025 Posted July 9, 2025 On 06/07/2025 at 22:16, kp60nick said: Thanks @cletus good information to have. You're definitely right. Before I go any further I'll look into blings suggestion. Archers springs in Takanini have made me new coil springs numerous times. 2 Quote
Nominal Posted July 9, 2025 Posted July 9, 2025 22 minutes ago, anglia4 said: My Galaxie is advertised from new as being a 10-seat option and I want to register it as such. Being a 67, it doesn't require rear seat belts, so I'm not fussed about that. But to achieve the 10-seat thing, it has 3 seats across the front bench, but currently only 2 seat belts. I'm assuming I'll need the third lap belt in the front for my VIN check guys to sign it off as 10 seats. Is it OK to bolt in a lap belt that shares the bolt holes with the other two belts? I was just going to take out all of the rear belts and use one of them in the front for the inspection so that they all match. A couple of my old cars have the front middle lap belt done like that. But you shouldn't need a front middle seatbelt according to the VIRM, just Static (or OEM) on the front outers. Seatbelts and seatbelt anchorages | Vehicle Inspection Portal 1 Quote
anglia4 Posted July 9, 2025 Posted July 9, 2025 Oh sweet. I won't muck about then and will just leave all the belts as they are. Thanks! Quote
Nominal Posted July 9, 2025 Posted July 9, 2025 Good luck! (I did check the entry certification rules and they point to the same link so you should be OK...................) Quote
cletus Posted July 9, 2025 Posted July 9, 2025 if you have an abundance of lap belts that are date stamped 67, pick the best 2 for the front the rules state that a post 55 vehicle should have lap and diagonal belts in the front as a minimum (tbh this is a good idea, a lap diag belt is many times safer than a lap belt) OR the oem lap belts if they are in good condition a lot of people get caught out by fitting a nice new pair of repro factory style lap belts but once the factory ones are removed, any replacement belt has to be the correct lap diag type which means in a lot of cars, having to make anchorages and getting lvv cert 2 3 Quote
ul9601 Posted July 9, 2025 Posted July 9, 2025 is the onus of proving whether the window tint is legal or not on the wof inspector or the owner? just failed on that, im thinking if the inspector was to fail it, VLT must be measured objectively using a calibrated machine (and allow for 5% tolerance per VIRM), rather than using a 35% VLT sample piece (which is what the inspector did) i produced the invoice from the tint shop stating the VLT of the tint used (which i keep in the car just in case like this - but never happened) but he would only accept a signed certificate of some sort from the tint shop showing the measured VLT. the guy never mentioned anything about that last 2 times i took the car for the wof, which makes it more puzzling (unless tint degrades over time and goes darker) Quote
kp60nick Posted July 9, 2025 Posted July 9, 2025 I've always thought it goes lighter with time. Dont know why they would change their mind now. Are they measuring it from the same location each time? Could one piece of glass have slightly more factory tint? Quote
Tiger Tamer Posted July 9, 2025 Posted July 9, 2025 Wheel to guard clearance. I am sure I have read on this forum that the rear axle should be able to travel to the bump stops and the wheel tyre combo should not rub on the guards. Which makes sense. Since I have been flaring the rear guards of the Minx I have flared the driver side enough to cover the tyre but not without enough height in the flare to give clearance between the trye and guard through full rear suspension travel. I started on the passenger side but decided to stop because of this ?. It's confusing as you see a lot of cars with very little space and free space for suspension travel for the tyre before it hits the guard. I have been looking on the LVVT site but haven't found the info I need. Cheers Quote
ul9601 Posted July 9, 2025 Posted July 9, 2025 19 minutes ago, kp60nick said: I've always thought it goes lighter with time. Dont know why they would change their mind now. Are they measuring it from the same location each time? Could one piece of glass have slightly more factory tint? Well, it was overcast/rainy today whether that'd make any difference (shouldn't, if comparing with a sample) It is not a factory tint - it was done December 2023, i know that the tint shop checked the glass before tinting (which came out to zero) then I asked for minimum legal VLT of 35%. I don't think they checked the VLT afterwards. The AA testing station I went to where another car failed for too dark tint, they said it was 13% (i knew it was too dark anyway so that's fine), obviously they measured VLT to give me the figure, rather than blanket "too dark" I'll go to the tint shop and get a piece of paper with a number on it and hope for the best, but I'm just curious where the onus lies. VIRM says this, so I assume that you'll have to measure it to pass/fail it. Note 8 A tolerance of 5% is permitted for the visible light transmittance (VLT) reading, to compensate for variations in tint film and light meters. Quote
440bbm Posted July 9, 2025 Posted July 9, 2025 46 minutes ago, ul9601 said: is the onus of proving whether the window tint is legal or not on the wof inspector or the owner? just failed on that, im thinking if the inspector was to fail it, VLT must be measured objectively using a calibrated machine (and allow for 5% tolerance per VIRM), rather than using a 35% VLT sample piece (which is what the inspector did) i produced the invoice from the tint shop stating the VLT of the tint used (which i keep in the car just in case like this - but never happened) but he would only accept a signed certificate of some sort from the tint shop showing the measured VLT. the guy never mentioned anything about that last 2 times i took the car for the wof, which makes it more puzzling (unless tint degrades over time and goes darker) back in my day, they use to look at the 35% sticker the shop would put on first before applying it. they also used to give you a letter with their confirmation but i never got asked it. i did have a vehicle that i had the carbon black type one fitted that looked much darker but wasnt, funnily enough never got questioned. 1 Quote
Bearded Baldy Posted July 9, 2025 Posted July 9, 2025 Everything is technically the owners job to prove it is up to standard. Fail on balljoint play in a merc sprinter? Get merc to check it and write a jobcard stating they are allowed x amount of play and it is within spec, wof inspector can pass it then. As for tint, alot of people get a bit ott with it, i have a card with 35% written on it that i if i can read the writing through the window, it is mint. Unofficially the 5% leeway thing makes the whole thing a joke in my opinion anyway, most guys i know won't even test the tint level if it looks rightish. We are no longer called safety inspectors, now it is compliance something or other. 1 Quote
igor Posted July 9, 2025 Posted July 9, 2025 14 minutes ago, Bearded Baldy said: We are no longer called safety inspectors, now it is compliance something or other. A tacit admission from on high that compliance isn't necessarily about safety? 1 Quote
Bearded Baldy Posted July 9, 2025 Posted July 9, 2025 Let me answer your question with another question. How is one of these ratings more safe than the other, on an identical vehicle built 1 week earlier/later. Quote
Nominal Posted July 9, 2025 Posted July 9, 2025 Breakpoints in the rules, just like the daft 6 month WOF rule for pre-2000 vehicles. Quote
cletus Posted July 9, 2025 Posted July 9, 2025 2 hours ago, Tiger Tamer said: Wheel to guard clearance. I am sure I have read on this forum that the rear axle should be able to travel to the bump stops and the wheel tyre combo should not rub on the guards. Which makes sense. Since I have been flaring the rear guards of the Minx I have flared the driver side enough to cover the tyre but not without enough height in the flare to give clearance between the trye and guard through full rear suspension travel. I started on the passenger side but decided to stop because of this ?. It's confusing as you see a lot of cars with very little space and free space for suspension travel for the tyre before it hits the guard. I have been looking on the LVVT site but haven't found the info I need. Cheers It's in the car construction manual Suspension chapter and wheel tyre one 1 1 Quote
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