Lump Posted February 18, 2009 Posted February 18, 2009 Basically I sent an email to the plates website asking if my old plate was available as it didn't come up when searched for on the website. I get emailed and mailed info on the plate Get a phone call a week or so later from the personalised plate woman asking me if I want to buy the plate. I say that $750 seems a bit steep for a plate that no one else could conceivably want and I won't pay that much. She says that if I have the original plates I can buy them for cheaper (it was still a couple of hundred bucks though). Unfortunately I didn't have the original plates and I haven't contacted the guy who re-registered the car a couple of years ago to see if he has them yet. I got plenty of emails and letters from this woman I'll have a look and see if I can find her name for you. Quote
kyteler Posted February 18, 2009 Posted February 18, 2009 That would be awesome man. Much appreciated. Quote
Leebo3 Posted February 18, 2009 Posted February 18, 2009 I was told another way, find some black plates that rego is good on/on hold, ring plates and they can personalise them, for round $300, and your done. Wont exactly work in your case tho sorry KY. Mite do in mine if its all true. Quote
kyteler Posted February 18, 2009 Posted February 18, 2009 Yeah, my car has been off the system for over 20years. Finding another on hold Prince or set of "AB" plates, might prove a little difficult. Quote
Lump Posted February 19, 2009 Posted February 19, 2009 Kyteler, looks likes I've had a clean out can't find the details of who I was dealing with at Personalised Plates, Judging from Leebo3's post I might have had the wrong end of the stick in regards to reusing old plates and getting the cheaper deal sorry if I got your hopes up. However if you're keen to get your old plates back on they will be available if they havn't already been brought as a personalised plate. You do need to contact the personalised plate people via email and explain that the plate doesn't show up on their site, but that the plate hasn't been registered on another vehicle. They'll run a few checks and get back to you saying it is available (hopefully they'll know what they're talking about). Though they do start at about $750 though Quote
bubblegoose Posted March 4, 2009 Posted March 4, 2009 Q on spring captivity test assembled my shocks last night and the springs are captive with out getting the shocks shortened HORAY! ......BUT!! how hard do they have to lock in, they will not come out no matter how hard i shake it but i can pull them down off the cups with my hands (an estimate would be around 10kgs to move them) also didnt need spring compressors to fit i just sat on them haha! you thinks will be sweet of should i have my shocks shortened Quote
Beaver Posted March 22, 2009 Posted March 22, 2009 does the exhaust have to exit outside the parameter of the vehicle? ie at the mo my exhaust finishes just behind the diff, and points slightly towards the ground, and is like 1 foot from the side of the car, pointing towards the back. do i have to extend the pipe so it either exits out the back or the side? cheers Quote
tortron Posted March 22, 2009 Posted March 22, 2009 mine ends about 4 inches from the rear apron had no troubles Quote
bubblegoose Posted March 22, 2009 Posted March 22, 2009 ive seen the roll cage issue has been lightly brushed on, but i would like to know just how much caging can be done before authority cards come into play i know half cages are sweet and ive been told your allowed a drivers side intrusion bar, anybody know for sure? Quote
Beaver Posted March 22, 2009 Posted March 22, 2009 mine ends about 4 inches from the rear apronhad no troubles mines probably a good 2 feet from the rear..... Quote
tortron Posted March 22, 2009 Posted March 22, 2009 mine ends about 4 inches from the rear apronhad no troubles mines probably a good 2 feet from the rear..... is it behind any opening windows? Quote
Beaver Posted March 22, 2009 Posted March 22, 2009 mine ends about 4 inches from the rear apronhad no troubles mines probably a good 2 feet from the rear..... is it behind any opening windows? that it is my friend Quote
Ned Posted March 22, 2009 Posted March 22, 2009 needs to enter 2" out of body from what i remember and need to be x past opening windows and even doors. Was looking into it years ago when i wanted lake pipes on starlet Quote
bubblegoose Posted March 24, 2009 Posted March 24, 2009 right so hydro handbrakes are a no no then? because they need to have a mechanical cable mechanism? (so ive been led to believe) what if the hand brake operated both hydro lines and pulled the cables too and had a ratchet mechanism? basically a staging brake linked to the stock handbrake lever keeping the cables in place? thoughts? suggestions? would this even work? Quote
solidstripe Posted March 31, 2009 Posted March 31, 2009 mine ends about 4 inches from the rear apronhad no troubles mines probably a good 2 feet from the rear..... is it behind any opening windows? that it is my friend Yeah, it has to be behind any opening windows so the gasses don't get sucked into the cabin, that's a big no-no. As far as projecting past the body, it depends where you get your warrent. I went to one shop with my cedric, no problems, then the next wof went to another one and they kicked up a ker-fufle about it having to stick past the body. Quote
solidstripe Posted March 31, 2009 Posted March 31, 2009 Also, what's the deal with fitting bullbars? I have a set to fit my year delica sitting in the shed, and the bars have holes on them to match what I presume would be holes in the chassis. Except my chassis doesn't have any. I know this sounds dodgey but can I drill holes in the chassis rails to fit them? I figure, since the holes would be filled with stainless bolts it wouldn't be much/any weaker? Does anyone know the legalites? Quote
nzsubbie Posted April 6, 2009 Posted April 6, 2009 Ok i got a question about getting a prewar car revinned. It will have a Woodern framed body on it. Yesterday i heard something werid like they now all have to be Dove tail joins on the wood. Point is does it have to be done this way by newish LTSA rules? Dad and other guys I know have built wooden car bodys for over 30/40 years and never had Joins fail etc. They dont do dove tail joins. Quote
brocky41 Posted April 16, 2009 Posted April 16, 2009 Bubblegoose - you may be able to get away with the hydro handbrake if it can be disconected at the lever - ie you take a pin out and remove lever / use original or cable handbrake "to and from events", as hydro is supposed to be for race cars. you could become a member of a car club in your area and get a log book (can get one for cars that are not caged ie road car for autocrosses etc. then once you have done an event you have the log book to show mr officer/wof man. as for the cage im unsre as the only half caged car here was a TE71 corolla and it had intrusion bars left and right but was unregistered. Hope that helps Quote
bubblegoose Posted April 29, 2009 Posted April 29, 2009 ok im not thinking of doing this but i saw it today and thought quite loudly in my head 'WTF!' hilman avenger with cutties up front, shocks not captive so there was a long bolt welded to the top spring cap running through the bottom cap/plate/base/whateverwhocares and bolted captive,so when the shock compresses the bolt slides though the lower cap and the nut stops it from rasing past its captive point. seems a bit iffy squiffy to me Quote
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