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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs

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You might be able to give yourself a bit more clearance with an Allen head bolt  

There isn't a set minimum but I'd aim for at least 5mm . If you have to run spacers anyway it's not a big deal to space it out a bit more

 

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Question regarding steering setups for my 720/Safari mashup.

I have the NZCCM, and it has this section:

image.png.a0a350c7cedaa7a1c0b3c9baec69081e.png

Essentially my question is: The pair of UJs (1 either side of the intermediate shaft) would be supported at the firewall, and the steering box. Is that what it's asking for, or some sort of inline bearing on the intermediate shaft?

Probably an obvious answer but I wasn't sure. 

If the answer is a support on the intermediate shaft, then do I need to incorporate some degree of movement (i.e. rubber mounting) as it is a cab on frame and there will be a degree of flex? Or is that negligible and it can just be hard mounted?

 Thanks in advance.

 

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On a macpherson strut type suspenion - is there a minimum amount of thread that needs to extend past the end of a nut on the two bolts securing the shock to the hub(knuckle/carrier)?

EDIT: 'Two threads clear'

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I've read conflicting information, is it acceptable to modify/shorten/weld half shafts? 

EDIT: Looking into it, I don't think welding is an option but shortening and resplining could work.

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If a vehicle come with lspv as per pic. Can I remove it when certing for other mods?

i.e longer rear break line for lift and remove it all together

 

cherers

C3E7DB7A-9375-4F74-892C-1B883232F17E.jpeg

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You need some sort of proportioning valve or the rears will have to much pressure and lock up.

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We get Hilux's and Bounty's in at work all the time with them failed, it's amazing how happily they lock the rears with even the lightest of brake pressure. Scary as fuck in the wet haha

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What about cutting the long rod off short and locking it in a position that suits?

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1 hour ago, Ashkellybarr said:

If a vehicle come with lspv as per pic. Can I remove it when certing for other mods?

i.e longer rear break line for lift and remove it all together

 

cherers

C3E7DB7A-9375-4F74-892C-1B883232F17E.jpeg

yep as long as the brake bias is ok, ie lock it in the right position, or fit an adjustable bias valve

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On ‎18‎/‎01‎/‎2019 at 09:07, WhangareiKE70 said:

Question regarding steering setups for my 720/Safari mashup.

I have the NZCCM, and it has this section:

image.png.a0a350c7cedaa7a1c0b3c9baec69081e.png

Essentially my question is: The pair of UJs (1 either side of the intermediate shaft) would be supported at the firewall, and the steering box. Is that what it's asking for, or some sort of inline bearing on the intermediate shaft?

Probably an obvious answer but I wasn't sure. 

If the answer is a support on the intermediate shaft, then do I need to incorporate some degree of movement (i.e. rubber mounting) as it is a cab on frame and there will be a degree of flex? Or is that negligible and it can just be hard mounted?

 Thanks in advance.

 

if you just have 2x ujoints, you wont need another support, the steering column (if its got a bush/bearing in the bottom) will support one, steering box will support the other

 

if the body is rubber mounted you will need some sort of flex in the system to allow for body movement on the chassis- either a rubber rag joint, or ujoints and a sliding shaft

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On ‎22‎/‎01‎/‎2019 at 11:20, CorollaGT said:

On a macpherson strut type suspenion - is there a minimum amount of thread that needs to extend past the end of a nut on the two bolts securing the shock to the hub(knuckle/carrier)?

EDIT: 'Two threads clear'

correct, 2 threads past the nut

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On ‎23‎/‎01‎/‎2019 at 09:56, ~Slideways~ said:

I've read conflicting information, is it acceptable to modify/shorten/weld half shafts? 

EDIT: Looking into it, I don't think welding is an option but shortening and resplining could work.

what application?

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59 minutes ago, cletus said:

what application?

A few options for a motorbike engined car

 

1. Either an MX5 rear subframe narrowed (but keeping stock suspension components/dimensions) and using mx5 diff converted to sprocket drive (mid engine chain drive) and shortened half shafts (hoping to just cut and respline if possible)

2. The same subframe using an IRS holden diff (normal prop shaft to front) and modified half shafts to mx5 rear brakes (maybe respline would work, maybe weld...dont like idea of welding) .

3. Civic diff and brakes converted to sprocket using in fwd format but need to shorten shafts. 

 

If that makes sense?

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Noob question on CoFs: Working on a friends camper, and we've gutted it. Can we CoF it with no interior, and then do the camper related stuff later? Figure it's better/easier doing that while empty and repairable. From what I picked up on the Civil-ian thread that's the way to go.

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46 minutes ago, The Bronze said:

Noob question on CoFs: Working on a friends camper, and we've gutted it. Can we CoF it with no interior, and then do the camper related stuff later? Figure it's better/easier doing that while empty and repairable. From what I picked up on the Civil-ian thread that's the way to go.

Has to have bed table and cooker to reg as mobile home 

easy enough to throw in even if the interior is gutted 

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Hold that thought that may have been cos I was doing rereg from scratch - never ever had them even look in interior for any other cof 

 

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14 hours ago, Yowzer said:

We get Hilux's and Bounty's in at work all the time with them failed, it's amazing how happily they lock the rears with even the lightest of brake pressure. Scary as fuck in the wet haha

Good to know. I’ll unbolt the arm and take it for a drive first to see what it’s like

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As long as the brakes work it'll be fine, you could even cable tie the pipe on if you felt like it. Trailer WoFs really only care about wheel bearings, tyres, lights, and structural integrity. 

 

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