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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs

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Cut them like a real man

 

 

The same goes for leaf springs and torsion bars

  • Haha 1

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Cutting is exactly what I’m trying to avoid haha. Struggling to find an aftermarket spring at the moment. 1980 RX30 Cressida. 

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Why? Cut is legit. My Cressida is rolling cuts and it rides bloody good.

Otherwise you can get some custom springs made up if you really want to.

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Wouldn’t know how much to take off to get it low enough (only really want to drop 50mm or so) or how to tidy it up haha

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5 hours ago, Testament said:

this exhaust noise thing brings up another question

while you said baffles etc should need tools to be removed but what about the case of a baffle to make the exhaust quiet for oldman reasons

basically similar to a lot of modern supercars/high performance cars that have some kind of varex type butterfly valve thing in the exhaust

the idea being with the valve open the exhaust is louder - but still passes noise requirements but with the valve closed the car is proper quiet for nice cruising/not upsetting everyone when you are just going to get a bottle of mlik from the servo?

 

 

I'm interested in this - suspect I'm the old man you speak of... Keen to have unrowdy whisper quiet sleeper spec for tootling into work carpark and have free-er flow when on the gas for my conversion (was thinking boost referenced).

Re OK if OEM, I assume the OEM bit is the chassis/body versus engine? I believe some HSVs had vacuum actuated exhaust valves and donor motor is LS so?... Recipient is Hilux so nothing fancy there exhaust-wise

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21 minutes ago, michael14 said:

Wouldn’t know how much to take off to get it low enough (only really want to drop 50mm or so) or how to tidy it up haha

Measure the distance between coils with the weight on them to get an idea of how many to lop off, then a 1/4 coil at a time until it's almost where you want, then fine tune. Then sort some shorter shocks to keep it all captive. 50mm would be about 1.5 - 2 coils on the front, probably 1 coil on the rear at a top-of-the-head guess

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Just go into Chamberlains in town and see what they can offer you. More legit than cuts.

/old man

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2 hours ago, KP_wag said:

I'm interested in this - suspect I'm the old man you speak of... Keen to have unrowdy whisper quiet sleeper spec for tootling into work carpark and have free-er flow when on the gas for my conversion (was thinking boost referenced).

Re OK if OEM, I assume the OEM bit is the chassis/body versus engine? I believe some HSVs had vacuum actuated exhaust valves and donor motor is LS so?... Recipient is Hilux so nothing fancy there exhaust-wise

https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Exhaust_Noise_Emissions.pdf

2.1 has the requirements for what you are talking about

 

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1 hour ago, michael14 said:

I rung them about reset springs, I assume that involved some kind of heat treatment @Bling

Get new ones made, as per your lowering thread.

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10 hours ago, cletus said:

Thanks for that. So my reading of that is that you can have a switched 'bimodal' exhaust as long as it is not manually actuated and as long as it doesn't exceed the max decibel limits under either mode? 

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Yep that's how I read it. 

So if it passes in 'open' mode it should be ok

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Good morning,

qurstion you probably get asked 100000 times a day,

what’s the budget one should allow for cost for coilovers and wheels on a Japanese vechile?

also for getting multiple wheel options is there a  further cost per wheel?

thank.

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10 hours ago, cletus said:

Yep that's how I read it. 

So if it passes in 'open' mode it should be ok

So reading this could i install some varex type mufflers in my chev sedan with the switch to change sound level in the boot that way it cant be changed while in motion. But is technically still inside the vehicle. Or would switch have to be outside vehicle?

Of course sound level fully open has to comply with db levels

sorry for going over this again i dont have my head fully around this.

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the way I interpret it, 

if the exhaust met the decibel requirements in the open position, you could have the switch inside the vehicle and you could change it whenever

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11 hours ago, Shakotom said:

Good morning,

qurstion you probably get asked 100000 times a day,

what’s the budget one should allow for cost for coilovers and wheels on a Japanese vechile?

also for getting multiple wheel options is there a  further cost per wheel?

thank.

retail price is $580 for a basic cert inspection, plus hoist hire at a workshop if necessary

extra set of wheels- there isn't a set price for that, stuff like that I base on how long it takes and how helpful the owner is.

Ie if theres another set of wheels in the boot and I have to swap them over myself, then it would cost more, than if the owner swaps them while im doing the paperwork

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13 hours ago, KP_wag said:

Thanks for that. So my reading of that is that you can have a switched 'bimodal' exhaust as long as it is not manually actuated and as long as it doesn't exceed the max decibel limits under either mode? 

I have had this question before and the answer is yes you can have a bi-modal exhaust, but one side has to be quiet, and the other side has to be more quiet.  ie: you cannot have quiet and loud modes.

So effectively exactly what you and Cletus have said.

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6 minutes ago, KKtrips said:

I have had this question before and the answer is yes you can have a bi-modal exhaust, but one side has to be quiet, and the other side has to be more quiet.  ie: you cannot have quiet and loud modes.

So effectively exactly what you and Cletus have said.

Great, will look to go that way then I think, a boost referenced valve that is as loud (flowey) as legally poss when open, and quiet as possible when closed

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