Bling Posted September 26, 2018 Share Posted September 26, 2018 Are wheel offsets recorded for cert purposes? Preventing other offset rims being fitted at a later date. TIA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted September 26, 2018 Share Posted September 26, 2018 I believe they're recorded in the documentation but not on the data plate. @cletus will confirm if I'm an idiot there. Or maybe @KKtrips Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted September 26, 2018 Share Posted September 26, 2018 1 hour ago, Bling said: Are wheel offsets recorded for cert purposes? Preventing other offset rims being fitted at a later date. TIA No they aren't recorded anywhere. However cars are pretty decently photographed during the cert inspection so if you change the wheels and have a whoopsie then it will pretty easy to figure out they are different. If the wheels have the offset marked on the wheels via a casting or even a sticker, then you can be pretty confident that would have been captured in a picture by the certifier. But if there was no evidence of the offset at cert time and you only changed the offset marginally and had the same looking wheels then it would be harder to tell. Even though it's pretty unlikely thst subtly changed offset wheels would have that much of an impact on the safety of the car but substantially changed offset wheels would definitely be noticeable to look at when compared Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted September 26, 2018 Share Posted September 26, 2018 The only time I write down the offset is if it's close to the maximum amount. Which is heaps. 35% of rim width positive or negative. It's not very often that offset is an issue. And most cars that get certified wouldn't have a lot of room for changing the offset by a significant amount without introducing other issues like tyre rub or the wheel hitting the suspension or something Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted September 26, 2018 Share Posted September 26, 2018 Wheels in question would be 0 offset, give or take <10. So nothing extreme, was just a thought that if a slightly better offset set were found, of same width. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted September 27, 2018 Share Posted September 27, 2018 @sheepers my ms110 is running a cressida brake master. No one cared. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted September 27, 2018 Share Posted September 27, 2018 cheers for that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kicker Posted October 8, 2018 Share Posted October 8, 2018 Braked trailer question. If the brakes don't work can you lock the reverse lock out in place (to disable the brakes) and pass a wof? Previous owner said Vtnz guy told him it would be ok but it sounds a bit purple monkey dishwasher. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted October 8, 2018 Share Posted October 8, 2018 You would want to remove the master cylinder and calipers. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kicker Posted October 8, 2018 Share Posted October 8, 2018 Ah yep, I wondered if that might be the go, chur. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted October 10, 2018 Share Posted October 10, 2018 So I've lowered the rack in the Triumph to clear the bottom of the engine. To sort out the bump steer this will inevitably cause, I also need to lower the tie rod end. Normally, the tie rod end mounts on the top of the steering arm. I've drilled out the tapered hole to take a 5/8th" bolt so I can use spacers to get it to the right height. Everything is just mocked up with clamps and spacers while I work out where it needs to be. I just had these rod ends lying around and will probably be using different ones, but they will be the same bore/thread size. This is where stuff would be if it had the factory tie rod ends on it. As you can see the tie rod and or rod end are too long. The rod end is 5/8" unf and the tie rod is 1/2" unf. The thread on the tie rod cannot be extended as the diameter reduces after the thread. My initial idea is to shorten both where I have the red lines. And use a threaded joining thing, in blue, to join them. I think I would have the rod end always threaded all the way in, with thread lock maybe and do the adjusting at the tie rod end like a 'normal' car. Does this look okay? Is there a better way to do it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty360 Posted October 14, 2018 Share Posted October 14, 2018 Would anyone have the specs for seat belt mount doubler plates? Or do I need to buy the hobby car manual for that one section? And what about sprog seat teathers? Any legal requirements around these at wof time? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted October 14, 2018 Share Posted October 14, 2018 On 10/10/2018 at 20:07, Adoom said: So I've lowered the rack in the Triumph to clear the bottom of the engine. To sort out the bump steer this will inevitably cause, I also need to lower the tie rod end. Normally, the tie rod end mounts on the top of the steering arm. I've drilled out the tapered hole to take a 5/8th" bolt so I can use spacers to get it to the right height. Everything is just mocked up with clamps and spacers while I work out where it needs to be. I just had these rod ends lying around and will probably be using different ones, but they will be the same bore/thread size. This is where stuff would be if it had the factory tie rod ends on it. As you can see the tie rod and or rod end are too long. The rod end is 5/8" unf and the tie rod is 1/2" unf. The thread on the tie rod cannot be extended as the diameter reduces after the thread. My initial idea is to shorten both where I have the red lines. And use a threaded joining thing, in blue, to join them. I think I would have the rod end always threaded all the way in, with thread lock maybe and do the adjusting at the tie rod end like a 'normal' car. Does this look okay? Is there a better way to do it? Looks ok. The rod end will need a jam nut to lock it into the blue sleeve thing, make sure the threads go in 1.5x thread diameter, make sure the rod end doesn't bind at full suspension travel, including compressing the bump stop a bit, the rod end will need a large flat washer as a failsafe , and the bolt that holds it on should have a shank that is a good fit in the arm 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted October 14, 2018 Share Posted October 14, 2018 11 minutes ago, rusty360 said: Would anyone have the specs for seat belt mount doubler plates? Or do I need to buy the hobby car manual for that one section? And what about sprog seat teathers? Any legal requirements around these at wof time? https://lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Seatbelts_& Seatbelt_Anchorages.pdf 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty360 Posted October 14, 2018 Share Posted October 14, 2018 11 minutes ago, cletus said: https://lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Seatbelts_& Seatbelt_Anchorages.pdf Thank you sir I will have a read!!! How much would a cert man charge me to cert new seat belt installs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted October 15, 2018 Share Posted October 15, 2018 Whups didn't see that it was already answered. Nothing to see here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.p.n.s Posted October 15, 2018 Share Posted October 15, 2018 regarding cert ... can i make my own fuel tank? fuel feed ,return and breather are ill in the in .tank fuel pump setup i will be using.. want to use sheet steel much like the factory tank. cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted October 15, 2018 Share Posted October 15, 2018 You can, you would need to follow the rules in the CCM (car construction manual) You can buy individual chapters of the manual on the lvvta website, I think it's about $10 a chapter 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j.e.d. Posted October 21, 2018 Share Posted October 21, 2018 Hmm.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted November 5, 2018 Share Posted November 5, 2018 So what's "acceptable" bump steer? I made a contraption to measure it. Ignore the g-clamp, the bolt is too short. Over 100mm of travel, full droop to full compression, I'm getting 0.67 degrees of toe change. As the suspension is raised, it toes out. If I run the ride height I'm thinking of running, the travel will be reduced to ~60mm and the toe change would be about 0.45 degrees. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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