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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs

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1 minute ago, BlownCorona said:

gonna be a case of asking i guess then. 

fuck thats dumb, ive spent the last two years thinking about all the things illegal about my car and the wof guys only ever pick up on the major things, im going to have to actually point out a bunch of stuff to fail me on. 

and yeah will be ian smith in chch, as thats the only option left. have heard ok things about him. don hoff who was very hit or miss as i hear (maybe hes the wof barry??) has retired or something 

I can't remember who it was in chch, I do recall he was a GC though and he obviously enjoyed his job watching his ear to ear grin bouncing off the rev limiter during the speedo test

Agree asking for a WOF is kinda dumb, especially if WOF guy doesn't pick stuff up. I'd prefer to do everything to a high level and go full disclosure with the cert guy for best insulation from law and subjective WOFs down the line. Would be annoying to be failing WOFs for something that could've been certed but never was

 

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My latest cert came with a fresh WOF from the same guy. It will depend on who you use as to the requirement of a pre cert check.

Sure they may pick up dumb shit you can rectify prior to cert which would save the certifier time and you some money?

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The underlying point is the certifier is declaring that the vehicle is legal at point of cert. So taking care of basic wof shit is in your best interest.  But anyway Clint will some what confirm more.  I actually can't remember if I went for a wof pre cert on my crown sedan or not. 

But the wheel alignment thing I can also understand as camber needs to meet correct standards. 

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@ Josh, last car we did for a work Colleague he needed to get a Pre Cert Wof done, which they failed (in this case for coilovers)

He needed 3 signed copies of the wheel alignment report - however that is because of the coilovers. From memory Don & Ian want them done even if its lowered on Lowering springs if the vehicle is below 100mm. Anything radical or scratch built then it has to be disassembled and run through bumpsteer with them.

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hadnt thought of it in that light. it was always been said to me in the tone of. the mods need to have failed a wof before they get certed. 

but non cert related issues being fixed before the car is declared legal makes sense. 

will await clint/and a phone call to the local cert man. 

any other hoops i should expect to jump?

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im 99% sure the car is around 105mm, i purposly changed to 14" rims and tires to suit being a legal ride height to minimise issues, but will check tomorrow. it does probably need an alignment but hoping to do it after cert when i can drive it into town a bit more stress free

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20 minutes ago, BlownCorona said:

im 99% sure the car is around 105mm, i purposly changed to 14" rims and tires to suit being a legal ride height to minimise issues, but will check tomorrow. it does probably need an alignment but hoping to do it after cert when i can drive it into town a bit more stress free

You can get it certed lower than 100mm. Make sure you get the wheel size you want to run on the cert plate to minimise later issues. You can get more than one size on the plate.

Sounds like you'll need to have the alignment done for cert, but you can get it done after the initial check.

https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_04-2012_Suspension_Camber_Angle_Guide.pdf

 

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the wof thing isn't compulsory=

the deal is, we have to check all the wof related items at the cert check- UNLESS its had a wof check within the last 14 days- then we don't have to check those things.

some certifiers might ask for it every time because they base their pricing off not having to check those things

sometimes I ask for a wof checksheet if the car is rough/rusty/loud/a bit of a liability taking responsibility for wof items

it can make a cert cheaper- our hourly rate is $150 so if I don't have to fluff around checking indicator bulbs and window washers then we don't have to charge for it

it can make the to do list a lot shorter- if there are 5 wof items that need repair and 3 items for cert-  supplying a wof sheet means only having to fix 3 things before you get your cert plate

 

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39 minutes ago, BlownCorona said:

 the mods need to have failed a wof before they get certed. 

a note on this, ive heard this before too

but its an old wives tale, its up to the certifier to figure out what is modified, not rely on a wof inspector.

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ideal. will most likely put it through a pre check, and sounds like it may be requested anyway. as im a big fan of making things cheaper. 

another question for the cert man, but ill ask it here too. 

is it acceptable to fit a driveshaft hoop, and take photos of it correctly fastened under the carpet and then put the interior back in for cert?

 

edit - the wheels on the car and suspension height are exactly how i want. i think i worded it badly before. have nailed down the look and feel i want before cert so i dont run into issues down the track. but the 13s with low pro tires were far too low, 65-70mm smashed everything on the road. looked cool but i dont want to ruin my car.

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I would accept that, you could take a photo with a ruler next to the plates to show they are the correct size

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ill of course double check with the local man, but sounds good to me. 

possibly more a question for @CUL8R as hes in the industry, but after reading up on the link posted above RE. camber, it states no more than 0.5* more neg camber than stock. how do we go about wheel alignment specs for old cars. are the specs for my 71 corona likley to be available? ive never seen anything online and i dont think any of my haynes type manuals have that info. 

camber is easy to change on my car with a shim system, its probably got too much camber in the front as i fucked around with it years ago, performed well on track the other day though, rear not so much :D skip skip. but ill let a professional tell me its wrong before i/they fix it.

 

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they changed it to suit this exact scenario for old cars, so its .5 deg over oe spec, or -1.5 max, whichever is more.

a lot of older cars the oe spec calls for positive camber, so something like an escort may previously for example, have been only allowed .5 deg total negative 

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awesome. thats nice and clear cut. 

i heard somewhere old crossply tires needed positive camber to work? i dont understand how tires work to that level, but can see as tire tech advanced aligments changed. 

 

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1 hour ago, Nominal said:

 You can get more than one size on the plate.

This true for wheels?

Good if it is because I'd like to be able to run both factory wheels and something with better offset and width.

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Failed on rust on my daily, and the WOF guy has put "Panel beater report required" in brackets, however chatting to a mate about it he said there was a another form im meant to get from the wof inspector if it indeed needs panelbeater sign off. 

Can anyone clarify if I can fix rust myself or i need said precious sign off?

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There is another form they should have given you identifying the areas to be repaired. It has generic car structure pictures that the wof guy should highlight problem areas. Anyone can do rust repairs, but the wof guy will be covering his butt, because he can’t see under the new paint. Ask him if you can take pics of the new metal before you paint it or take the car to him before paint. 

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Cool, i mean it's not even that bad, it's the bracket that holds the battery tray... 

I'm just more pissed ive had a clean wof for like 18 months then suddenly i have rust that is "structural and requires panelbeater". I'm definitely one for always asking the inspector about things that might require attention sooner rather than later (And yes, fixing them)

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