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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs


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@KKtrips and or @cletus

 

Just read Chris' comments in the dodgy cert advice Facebook group around the bump steer swing test.

On a ke70/ae86 with Techno Toy Tuning roll center adjusters between the strut and steering knuckle is a swing test required for Cert if the car doesn't have adjustable height tie-rod ends? I know @advokit had trouble getting a cert because he had bump steer adjustable tie-rod ends and ended up reverting to factory as he couldn't get his bump steer within spec. Will I need a swing test with just the RCAs? From my understanding the factory bump steer in a corolla is pretty bad to begin with?

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Is anybody able to point me to where in the rule book it talks to what is involved (if anything) with lower shock mounts when changing the differential?
Basically, are you able to chop off OEM lower shock mounts and weld onto new diff housing or does it require additional strength/boxing?

Maintaining separate shock/spring combo rather than going to a true coilover but while I am there, if it make sense to strength to leave the option to go to true coilover, I may as well, right?

Please and thank you

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Cheers Cletus, I will have a gander. Admittedly I didn't look in the CCM. 

I've seen an example of Matts KP60 build where he has boxed it in (or whatever its called)
image.png.d1add9c1216819268793da8b2fbefeb2.png

and an example of Snoozins where he has retained the original appendage for the shock to slide onto.
image.png.0b6ead2c31db6b321d3e0eb13e653edc.png

I will check with the certifier too, as most people would recommend but thought if it was black and white in a rule book, I could avoid interrupting his busy day.

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A Car (or rather a shell) has popped up on trademe that has peaked my interest (provided it doesn’t go for too much). 
 

It needs some hearty rust repairs which I’d have to chip away at over the next few years/forever.

Obviously any sort of rust repairs would need a repair cert etc. and I’m aware of that. But before I sign myself up for fixing this thing. How much of a ball ache (paperwork wise) am I up for?

It has the original manufacturers tag. Which has chassis number etc. but no Nzta vin number and no evidence of plates. 
 

It’s a pretty rare car here and they don’t come up very often in any sort of condition. So trust me if the option was to find one with wof/reg or at least on hold I would…. 

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Does anybody know how GVM is dished out by VTNZ when getting a revin for a vintage truck? There is nothing on the truck noting GVM or tare weight and being from 1946 the rego is long since evaporated. 

Do they go off sales brochures at the time? I really wouldn't mind getting it under 3500kgs to avoid rucs but not too concerned as it will be on farm rego if anything at all. 

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Are dashboard lights a wof requirement? I got pulled over the other night for a routine stop and the cop started going off about the dash lights, I was going to show him how there is a factory switch to turn them up and down and off but he went back to his car and then drove off

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1 hour ago, cletus said:

Nope. Which is kind of weird as you can't read speedo at night without a light

Has to have high beam light and something to tell you the indicators are on, that's it 

 

 

He must of been checking with his boss and when they sed its ok he just gapped it 

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4 hours ago, ajg193 said:

What's the go with getting a wof 1-2 weeks early these days? Twice in a row now I have gotten 6 months from inspection date instead of 6 months from original expiry date.

Makes sense that it's 6 months from inspection date though.

 

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