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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs


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whats the requirements for a gearbox xmember?

put type 9 in the wag, made crosmember out of 2x1 and 1x1 box section if my memory serves me its about 2mm wall thickness. has 100x150x6 plates that bolt thru matching 100x150x6mm plates that are welded to floor pan.

10mm bolts with nylocks thru floor/plates and 8mm bolts+nylocks holding mount to xmember. had to cut factory stiffening to bring stick position back so do those edges need to be welded up?

can the plate covering hole on trans tunnel be rivited in?

Ta chaps

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hey cletus got a question for you not really sure on it and neither was the guy at work

ive got the back seats removed and buckles and belts is that a fail its a 2 door ford laser 90's

and can you fail for a wheel been buckled? also if i get it certed for engine thats in it could i fit my other set of adjustables for cert and put stock lows back in later or would that fail as its not on adjustables any more

cheers

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whats the requirements for a gearbox xmember?

put type 9 in the wag, made crosmember out of 2x1 and 1x1 box section if my memory serves me its about 2mm wall thickness. has 100x150x6 plates that bolt thru matching 100x150x6mm plates that are welded to floor pan. MAKE SURE THE FLOOR DOESNT FLEX, I RECOMMEND THE FLOOR PLATES GO UP THE SIDE OF THE TUNNEL AS WELL TO ADD STRENGTH IF YOU DO IT THAT WAY

10mm bolts with nylocks thru floor/plates and 8mm bolts+nylocks holding mount to xmember. had to cut factory stiffening to bring stick position back so do those edges need to be welded up? YES ANY STRENGTH LOST WILL HAVE TO BE REPLACED

can the plate covering hole on trans tunnel be rivited in? YES

Ta chaps

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hey cletus got a question for you not really sure on it and neither was the guy at work

ive got the back seats removed and buckles and belts is that a fail its a 2 door ford laser 90's YOU CAN REMOVE THE SEATS AND BELTS, WITHOUT A CERT REQUIRED

and can you fail for a wheel been buckled?YES also if i get it certed for engine thats in it could i fit my other set of adjustables for cert and put stock lows back in later or would that fail as its not on adjustables any more GOT TO MATCH WHAT THE PLATE SAYS....

cheers

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hey cletus, what are the goes with quick release boss kits? my ute is kinda difficult to get in and out of with the current setup inside. thought a quick release boss would help, but not much point if they cant be certified/ are illegal

i think the wording in the hobby car manual says they are not recommended unless its needed to get in and out the car, like if it has a cage.....usually i knock them back cause D1NZ wannabes put them in cefiros for no real reason, plus they are usually cheap china ones

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hey man. Im Looking at taking a complete subframe/rack/struts/brakes etc out of a FC rx7 (series 4/5) and chucking it in my series 1 rx7. Its a modification that has been done overseas however I dont know of any cars on the road here that have it done. ( Ive heard of 2 cars here that have had it done, neither is registered though).the issue with the modification is that the subframe has to be modified slighty to line up, lvvta says modifications to subframes have to be sufficiently strong to support the weight/rotational force of engine from memory. (correct me if Im wrong) what i need to do is move the front mounting hole on the subframe forward about 20mm, to do this plate needs to be welded onto the subframe as seen in the first pic on this link http://www.rx7club.c...w-i-did-967834/

on that link (for the rear mounts) they punch holes through the rails, add some crush tube and use the original FC rear subframe mount, instead of doing that would it be legal to weld a vertical plate on the back of the subframe and use the existing steering box/idler arm holes as shown in these picsdsc0530resizeiu9.jpgdsc0532resizeld9.jpgif so how thick would the steel need to be? there will also be a spacer between the rail and the subframe to ensure the two items are touching.Sorry for the long post, any advice would be awesome cheers.

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