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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs


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https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/vehicle-identification/vin-and-chassis-number
 

no mention of needing a number plate. Just needs a VIN or chassis number. The number plate is needed to enter the wof online, but that can be found using the vin.

why are you getting a wof with no number plates fitted?

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32 minutes ago, AllTorque said:

Why are you getting a wof with no number plates fitted?

The car comes in for a WOF update when it's sold, someone has registered the car but the admin team haven't physically got the plates to us yet. 

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On 01/07/2022 at 09:49, VintageSpecial said:

Yep, schemes like that would get rid of cars before they get a chance to become classics I guess. But then again are modern cars likely to be viable as classics in years to come? They are built more like appliances to be replaced these days than machines to be maintained.

I dunno, more modern cars are actually made better in alot of ways, way better quality control in many cases. multi point fuel injection and electronic ignition have to be one of the best longevity things for vehicles ever. You put the key in and it works, it doesnt run rich or lean its just right always drives 300,000km and asks for more. yes interior plastics are prone to failing but some of that can be 3d printed and often alot more car were made of each model. and really thats still a probelm for older cars too.  The skills needed to keep a more modern car running are a bit different, but I dont see it being that big of a barrier in the scheme of things thought. hardly difficult at all compared to some of the rust restorations that get taken on with old cars.

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  • 2 weeks later...

If I were to arrive with a car that clearly can be fitted with turbo easily, as in manifolds oil feeds and drains fitted wastegate and intercooler fitted.

If I were to just remove the turbo and bypass manifold straight into the dump pipe would it pass wof? Providing everything else is up to snuff.

I know I could be green stickered still if I were to refit. I want to build the turbo setup and still be able to drive car should I hit complications or not be able to source parts.

Cert will be Done once im sure im not wasting time.

I just hate things sitting immobile because I'm waiting on parts turbos all vband and AN Fittings so it's a 10 minute task to remove it.

 

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I mean if it's only going to meet WOF requirements for that short time it's being tested, why even bother getting the WOF? May as well just take your chances and have a polite attitude if pulled up. If you're not driving it to get repairs / work done on it towards cert though you'll be up a creek really. I won't be trailering my car for repairs for cert, will just hope for the best as i'll only be driving it for trips related to that. I get the impression you plan to drive it all over the show, which is where WOF or not you'll come unstuck.

2c

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I'm anticipating some learning curves setting up the ecu that might take some time to figure out, having the option to pop the turbo off jam the stock ecu in and driving it while I try figure stuff out on the bench would be why I'm considering it.

Fabricating a bypass pipe easy learning to configure all this new electronic shit not so much. Having a dead car while I figure stuff out is a recipe for another unfinished project with me. Keeping it wof and reg till the kinks are sorted then certed will help me not give up.

*edit realise the above does sound like I'm been a shifty prick avoiding cert, I'm honestly just trying to avoid wasting others time arriving for cert with a car that has all the parts but doesn't function well.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Can brake discs legally be redrilled at all?

Want to do the upgrade on the hunter while the engine is away..

 

Want to use Capri vented discs with the m16 calipers and a spacer kit.

Capri PCD on the disc is off to fit the hunter hub.

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1 hour ago, shizzl said:

Can brake discs legally be redrilled at all?

Want to do the upgrade on the hunter while the engine is away..

 

Want to use Capri vented discs with the m16 calipers and a spacer kit.

Capri PCD on the disc is off to fit the hunter hub.

Old answer

Redrilling of Hubs or rotors - Nissan Cefiro | LVVTA Forum (proboards.com)

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi all, newbie here (well I’ve lurked for a while).

I’m trying to help out my elderly dad with a languishing car and we’ve had some conflicting advice about re-vinning.

It’s a ‘60s car, taken off the road in ‘96 as far as I can tell. Rego dead.

Dad’s mate has done a lot of work on it over the years, taking it down to a bare shell and repairing floors and rust. Some good work all round but now they’ve both lost interest and don’t have the energy for it anymore.

I wanna help get it back on the road but have been told that all of the repairs will need certification at this stage, while the car is a shell.

What does the hive mind reckon? Can anyone point me in the right direction please?

Let me know if I’ve missed any piece of vital information! 

 

 

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2 hours ago, igormortis said:

Hi all, newbie here (well I’ve lurked for a while).

I’m trying to help out my elderly dad with a languishing car and we’ve had some conflicting advice about re-vinning.

It’s a ‘60s car, taken off the road in ‘96 as far as I can tell. Rego dead.

Dad’s mate has done a lot of work on it over the years, taking it down to a bare shell and repairing floors and rust. Some good work all round but now they’ve both lost interest and don’t have the energy for it anymore.

I wanna help get it back on the road but have been told that all of the repairs will need certification at this stage, while the car is a shell.

What does the hive mind reckon? Can anyone point me in the right direction please?

Let me know if I’ve missed any piece of vital information! 

 

 

A Repair certifier is who you are after.

They have to inspect the repairs that have been done and if they are OK, will issue a repair cert for when it goes thru re vin  

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey

I'm about to assemble my doors and I've going through all my spares to select the best glass. Are there any issues at the wof or cert stage with having different etch markings between drivers and passengers glass? Do they have to match?Same question with the rear doors. Cheers

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20220821_154956_copy_2322x3096.thumb.jpg.bb8bd788dfb70a8ca1bcb1ee8e66f001.jpg

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