zep Posted April 28, 2022 Share Posted April 28, 2022 7 hours ago, cletus said: Nope as long as it meets the interior impact requirements you can do what you want if it's just a roll bar. It would only become more important to check it if it forms part of the structure, like if the upper 4 link bar mounts were incorporated into it, or you mounted your seat belts off the roll bar Awesome. Thanks Clint. I assume the same would apply if i was to incorporate the shock tower strengthening hoops into it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted April 28, 2022 Share Posted April 28, 2022 Yes, although that would be not quite so critical as it's only strengthening what's there already 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted June 16, 2022 Share Posted June 16, 2022 Long time lurker in this thread, but I am looking at purchasing a 2005 Lancer Evolution IX Wagon here in Canada, hanging onto it for a while here and then eventually bring it back to NZ with me in a few years time. It's fairly tidy but unfortunately it was auction grade R leaving Japan with a repair to the right rear quarter panel. Looking over the car it looks like the repair was done well and it's not overly obvious, but at the price that it's at (roughly a third of what an equiv one in NZ is listed for right now) I am seriously looking into it because it's one of my bucket list cars. One question is, when I eventually bring it from Canada to NZ would the prior Japanese auction history be visible to the NZ border despite the car coming via Canada? I would want to tidy up the repair to the point that it's not detectible at all. Another question is, would a 2005 Lancer Evo be eligible to import into the country these days? Being out of the country 11 years now, I'm not even up to date with the import restrictions and regulations. Thanks all! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted June 16, 2022 Share Posted June 16, 2022 If its picked up at the time of vin inspection, budget ~$500(?) For a repair cert, plus the cost of any extra work required to satisfy the repair certifyer that its bedn done right. (Possible strip down etc) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datlow Posted June 16, 2022 Share Posted June 16, 2022 20+yr old by the time you import it or own it for 2 yrs in canada should be sweet Unless they change all the rules by then..... /usa has 20yr? rule too so could probably still profit selling it to them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shakotom Posted June 16, 2022 Share Posted June 16, 2022 Restyling a govt issued number plate. if I do this, and the plate becomes registered in my name (like a pplate) does that mean I can swap it between cars? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted June 16, 2022 Share Posted June 16, 2022 9 hours ago, fuel said: Long time lurker in this thread, but I am looking at purchasing a 2005 Lancer Evolution IX Wagon here in Canada, hanging onto it for a while here and then eventually bring it back to NZ with me in a few years time. It's fairly tidy but unfortunately it was auction grade R leaving Japan with a repair to the right rear quarter panel. Looking over the car it looks like the repair was done well and it's not overly obvious, but at the price that it's at (roughly a third of what an equiv one in NZ is listed for right now) I am seriously looking into it because it's one of my bucket list cars. One question is, when I eventually bring it from Canada to NZ would the prior Japanese auction history be visible to the NZ border despite the car coming via Canada? I would want to tidy up the repair to the point that it's not detectible at all. Another question is, would a 2005 Lancer Evo be eligible to import into the country these days? Being out of the country 11 years now, I'm not even up to date with the import restrictions and regulations. Thanks all! I'd say just bring Canada paperwork/proof it's yours and plead ignorance with jdm r grade stuff. I don't know/imagine they'd have any access to jdm auction stuff /barry out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted June 17, 2022 Share Posted June 17, 2022 so looks like getting insurance for a less than 25 year old JDM RHD car is near impossible in Onterrible, so instead I am looking at a '94 Evo II a bit closer to home. Can I register a '94 fine in NZ these days? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kws Posted June 17, 2022 Share Posted June 17, 2022 6 hours ago, Shakotom said: Restyling a govt issued number plate. if I do this, and the plate becomes registered in my name (like a pplate) does that mean I can swap it between cars? Yes, it becomes a personalised plate, as long as its done through the proper peoples (kiwi plates?) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kws Posted June 17, 2022 Share Posted June 17, 2022 2 hours ago, fuel said: so looks like getting insurance for a less than 25 year old JDM RHD car is near impossible in Onterrible, so instead I am looking at a '94 Evo II a bit closer to home. Can I register a '94 fine in NZ these days? Seeing the state of the current crop of early Evos coming into the country, id be far more worried about rust and damage than anything. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted June 19, 2022 Share Posted June 19, 2022 you're right about the rust, this Evo II was a total rust bucket. But it has been in Ontario (where they salt the roads in winter) without additional rust protection undercoating for almost 20 years so that would be the reason. It makes my (mostly surface) rusty 2010 VW Passat look pristine in comparison. The 2005 Evo IX wagon doesn't have rust and it's only been in the country (in BC too where they don't salt the roads) for less than a year - it's just the previous rear quarter repair that I am more worried about, also just wanted to make sure I would actually be able to bring it back to NZ in a year or two when the time comes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted June 19, 2022 Share Posted June 19, 2022 If it's over 20 years old- no problem Less than 20- has to comply with all emissions standards etc unless you can meet the criteria for a special interest vehicle Will have to pay the clean car fee though, the car has to be 40+ years old to avoid that Rust or damage repair will need repair cert regardless of how old it is I'd avoid anything where they salt the roads, I've got a really nice 64 dodge polara on the hoist at the moment, looks good on the outside but it came from new York, and underneath is pretty fucked 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted June 20, 2022 Share Posted June 20, 2022 great thanks @cletus! I'm wondering maybe I could just hang onto it here in Canada until it's 20 years old. That would be 2025 which isn't too far away. I guess Evo IX wagon would also be classified as a SIV. The Clean car fee would probably be the killer though, but I'm sure that is the price to pay for having one of my wanted cars. If I bring over the C3 and/or RX-7 looks like I would skip the clean car fee there. How do they determine if a damage repair requires a repair cert? am wondering where they draw the line between regular body damage (like a dent) that has been repaired and painted through to a more serious repair like a quarter panel replacement Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldrx7 Posted June 21, 2022 Share Posted June 21, 2022 I'm sure this has been covered a bazzillion times but Imma go ahead and ask. Cert for adjustable suspension, bolt in job, oh and wheels not factory also. Will the certifier be going over the entire car to check other things? Or is that left for WOF inspections? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuyWithAviators Posted June 21, 2022 Share Posted June 21, 2022 2 minutes ago, oldrx7 said: I'm sure this has been covered a bazzillion times but Imma go ahead and ask. Cert for adjustable suspension, bolt in job, oh and wheels not factory also. Will the certifier be going over the entire car to check other things? Or is that left for WOF inspections? Provide cert man with wof sheet showing pass on basics and fail for the suspension. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linearentropy Posted June 27, 2022 Share Posted June 27, 2022 Not oldschool but I've never actually seen confirmation on this. DC5 Integra / EP3 Civic front shocks. I know these chassis suffer from serious bumpsteer when lowered, but that shouldn't apply when retaining the stock height. They have a pickup for the tie rods on the shock itself as seen here. (Not a great pic) I've read that this is the issue with aftermarket coilovers. However i'm not sure why, is it to do with materials, angles, both? A few companies still make shocks & full adjustable coilovers for them, and while I can kinda understand why the usual Taiwanese suspects aren't given a pass, surely a company like Bilstein can be trusted to build something to a standard at least as good as the OEM? Their offering seen here. Would something like Bilstein or KW actually fail to meet the requirements, or is it a matter of everyone wanting cheap & cheerful? As a side note, Tein, Bilstein & historically others have made OE replacement shocks for these chassis. Am I correct in assuming that these will pass a legit wof because they are OE level replacements? And that the issue comes in at cert time due to an LVVTA rule? Surely something from any of these reputable brands would be better off than the generic £80 replacements I've found out of the UK which I also believe would be perfectly legal here? I'm looking at picking up a civic and I've noticed that front shocks have been discontinued by Honda so I don't want to find myself in a position where I'm caught out with blown shocks and no real upgrade path. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted June 27, 2022 Share Posted June 27, 2022 Bilstein do replacement struts and koni do inserts. As I understand the issue is from the steering arm being welded (and cast) on the majority of aftermarket coilovers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linearentropy Posted June 27, 2022 Share Posted June 27, 2022 That’s kind of what I’m getting at. The Bilstein struts and coilovers would have the same steering arm attached in the same way right? The replacement struts are fine for wof, but should I try to cert the car for something else they fail due to the construction? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banga Posted June 27, 2022 Share Posted June 27, 2022 Looking at dialing out some bump steer from my set up, looks like the best was to do so is to go to rose jointed arms. Rather than drilling our the steering arm and using a straight bolt I’m looking to have a new pin made to match the OEM steering arm and taper. I’m looking through the information sheet https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_04-2020_Spherical_Bearing_Rod_End_Conversion.pdf The minimum sizes quoted are larger than the OEM specs I was hoping to replicate I.e. taper is 1/2” vs 16mm- is there any wriggle room with the diameters quoted in the information sheet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted June 27, 2022 Share Posted June 27, 2022 On 22/06/2022 at 11:05, oldrx7 said: I'm sure this has been covered a bazzillion times but Imma go ahead and ask. Cert for adjustable suspension, bolt in job, oh and wheels not factory also. Will the certifier be going over the entire car to check other things? Or is that left for WOF inspections? Wof sheet means certifier doesn't have to check wof items as part of cert so that makes it easier However it isn't a complete get out of jail free card, it's a common sense thing. I've had cars come in that have had wof check sheets failing it for things like spot lights not working and they have missed major things like rust in the chassis Also, for example if the tyres are worn or the brake lights don't work, you would want to get that sorted before you take it for cert, part of the cert is a road test and something like no brake lights could make the road test/brake test hazardous. I've always been careful with making sure the car is good before road testing, because if there's an accident caused by a fault that I've found, but chose to drive the car anyway, I'm pretty sure the insurance company would just laugh at me Other thing is a wheel alignment report, the camber shouldn't be more than 1.5deg camber, or .5 degree over max oe spec, whichever is greater. I can't imagine your car would be too bad, having been complied recently it's probably not going to have too many surprises 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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