cletus Posted April 13, 2022 Share Posted April 13, 2022 So if it's a factory 7/8/9/10 seater or whatever, and doesn't have a cert- can remove seats no problem. No cert required If it's a van that has had seats fitted, and certified, it has to match the cert- so if you remove some of the certified seats- would need another plate made plus certifiers time. Probably $100-150 if you remove All of the certified seats- certifier removes plate and notifies lvvta who return it to OE on landata. Usually charge $40 for that. Full re cert would only be if you changed to different seats or mounted the seats in a different way for some reason 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted April 13, 2022 Share Posted April 13, 2022 Awesome, cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmulally Posted April 22, 2022 Share Posted April 22, 2022 I feel like a real idiot for posting this but I simply cannot find it in the Hobby Car Manual. I am trying to find out the thickness for diff brackets (not the chassis end) for a 5 link rear end (Lotus 7 style). I have 3mm as that's the size of what the Skyline the diff is off originally had. But I can't recall where but I do remember hearing or seeing something about them needing to be 5mm thick. I have scoured chapter 6 of the manual and it is deliberately hiding from me. Although I can find the part about the shock mounts needing to be 5mm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted April 23, 2022 Share Posted April 23, 2022 Are damaged/missing tie rod end boots a WOF Fail? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted April 23, 2022 Share Posted April 23, 2022 Nope. Just rack boots. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted April 23, 2022 Share Posted April 23, 2022 Happy days! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted April 24, 2022 Share Posted April 24, 2022 On 22/04/2022 at 14:57, dmulally said: I feel like a real idiot for posting this but I simply cannot find it in the Hobby Car Manual. I am trying to find out the thickness for diff brackets (not the chassis end) for a 5 link rear end (Lotus 7 style). I have 3mm as that's the size of what the Skyline the diff is off originally had. But I can't recall where but I do remember hearing or seeing something about them needing to be 5mm thick. I have scoured chapter 6 of the manual and it is deliberately hiding from me. Although I can find the part about the shock mounts needing to be 5mm I'll double check on Tuesday when I've got the book in front of me but I'm 99% sure there isn't a minimum size for link brackets Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmulally Posted April 24, 2022 Share Posted April 24, 2022 4 hours ago, cletus said: I'll double check on Tuesday when I've got the book in front of me but I'm 99% sure there isn't a minimum size for link brackets Ta. I can only find specs for shock mounts which is the 5mm. I am rebuilding my suspension arms as an aside. They need to be by tig as they were previously mig welded. There are a couple of corners I cant get to with the tig beneath it so I hope the certifier isnt too precious about a few mig welds on them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted April 24, 2022 Share Posted April 24, 2022 40 minutes ago, dmulally said: Ta. I can only find specs for shock mounts which is the 5mm. I am rebuilding my suspension arms as an aside. They need to be by tig as they were previously mig welded. There are a couple of corners I cant get to with the tig beneath it so I hope the certifier isnt too precious about a few mig welds on them. They never noticed on my stuff. Just don't mention it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zep Posted April 27, 2022 Share Posted April 27, 2022 My current understanding that my because my car is currently certed for its half cage with the old diameter main hoop, I can keep it through the recert for all the other changes I am making to the car (brakes, engine, suspensions, etc.). Is this correct? And can I add some central gussets to the cage without having to recert it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmulally Posted April 27, 2022 Share Posted April 27, 2022 14 hours ago, zep said: My current understanding that my because my car is currently certed for its half cage with the old diameter main hoop, I can keep it through the recert for all the other changes I am making to the car (brakes, engine, suspensions, etc.). Is this correct? And can I add some central gussets to the cage without having to recert it? I took my Chev C20 through LVV a year or so ago and things are a little different to when I took my commer through a few years ago. Instead of a plate they have a scanning tag and when they put that into the LVV system it brings up a whole stack of pictures of the build. So the Commer I'm able to do minor mods to (which is what I'd consider gussets to be) but the Chev would be a little too hard. I was going to swap my 700r4 for a 4l80e gearbox but it will be noticable should anybody log in and check closely. As like all these things, it depends on the mood of your WOF guy. If you've got more things to Cert I'd just do what you need to do beforehand so it is included in the pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zep Posted April 27, 2022 Share Posted April 27, 2022 2 hours ago, dmulally said: I took my Chev C20 through LVV a year or so ago and things are a little different to when I took my commer through a few years ago. Instead of a plate they have a scanning tag and when they put that into the LVV system it brings up a whole stack of pictures of the build. So the Commer I'm able to do minor mods to (which is what I'd consider gussets to be) but the Chev would be a little too hard. I was going to swap my 700r4 for a 4l80e gearbox but it will be noticable should anybody log in and check closely. As like all these things, it depends on the mood of your WOF guy. If you've got more things to Cert I'd just do what you need to do beforehand so it is included in the pics. The old cert does not have any pictures, although Clint knows I'm asking this question I just don't want to end up in a situation where I have to rebuild the main hoop because adding the gussets effectively means the cage is no longer the same as how it was when originally certed. If that makes sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmulally Posted April 27, 2022 Share Posted April 27, 2022 36 minutes ago, zep said: The old cert does not have any pictures, although Clint knows I'm asking this question I just don't want to end up in a situation where I have to rebuild the main hoop because adding the gussets effectively means the cage is no longer the same as how it was when originally certed. If that makes sense. Have you got more stuff to cert anyway? I'd tick it off then. If not borrow some of @yoeddynz hello kitty plush toys and cable tie them to the gussets. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zep Posted April 28, 2022 Share Posted April 28, 2022 2 hours ago, dmulally said: Have you got more stuff to cert anyway? I'd tick it off then. If not borrow some of @yoeddynz hello kitty plush toys and cable tie them to the gussets. Yeah, essentially everything in the car except the existing cage needs certing as it's all changing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted April 28, 2022 Share Posted April 28, 2022 21 hours ago, zep said: My current understanding that my because my car is currently certed for its half cage with the old diameter main hoop, I can keep it through the recert for all the other changes I am making to the car (brakes, engine, suspensions, etc.). Is this correct? And can I add some central gussets to the cage without having to recert it? Correct. Unless there are belts attached to the roll bar, it could be made out of 25mm exhaust tube, as for lvv cert, the only concern with roll bars is interior impact ie making sure you don't damage yourself on a sharp bar bracket or something Adding gussets will be no problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted April 28, 2022 Share Posted April 28, 2022 On 24/04/2022 at 17:16, dmulally said: Ta. I can only find specs for shock mounts which is the 5mm. There isn't anything I can find about 4 link brackets, only that part you mentioned about 5mm on a shock mount but that is for a specific way of mounting It's probably like engine mounts, there isn't a spec for what it should be because the design and application is just as important as the material spec As a rule of thumb though, I'd suggest 3-5mm would be OK for 99% of cert stuff 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zep Posted April 28, 2022 Share Posted April 28, 2022 16 minutes ago, cletus said: Correct. Unless there are belts attached to the roll bar, it could be made out of 25mm exhaust tube, as for lvv cert, the only concern with roll bars is interior impact ie making sure you don't damage yourself on a sharp bar bracket or something Adding gussets will be no problem Thanks Clint. Is there a limit to changing the cage? When the car is in for the 4-link work, I might ask if they have any suggestions about making it better. I was looking for half-cage rules, but couldn't find them specifically. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted April 28, 2022 Share Posted April 28, 2022 Nope as long as it meets the interior impact requirements you can do what you want if it's just a roll bar. It would only become more important to check it if it forms part of the structure, like if the upper 4 link bar mounts were incorporated into it, or you mounted your seat belts off the roll bar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmulally Posted April 28, 2022 Share Posted April 28, 2022 1 hour ago, cletus said: There isn't anything I can find about 4 link brackets, only that part you mentioned about 5mm on a shock mount but that is for a specific way of mounting It's probably like engine mounts, there isn't a spec for what it should be because the design and application is just as important as the material spec As a rule of thumb though, I'd suggest 3-5mm would be OK for 99% of cert stuff Ta. I ended up getting in contact with the certifier and he said pretty much what you did. Being a lightweight 4 cylinder it isn't a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokin'joe Posted April 28, 2022 Share Posted April 28, 2022 2 hours ago, zep said: Thanks Clint. Is there a limit to changing the cage? When the car is in for the 4-link work, I might ask if they have any suggestions about making it better. I was looking for half-cage rules, but couldn't find them specifically. is it an MSNZ cage ? if so, would pay to check with tech. office. existing cage in my TE71 can only be modified either original builder, or with his permission..... unless they have changed that rule as well in last 2 years Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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