Mark_Fleming Posted September 7, 2021 Share Posted September 7, 2021 ^ cheers, I pass under the next clause..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MRWEST Posted September 7, 2021 Share Posted September 7, 2021 In my case for the RX3, am i likely to need it it plumbed back via intake? Im unsure if id pass 2.3(2) which states motor to be manufactured prior to 1975. (running a 13b) as 13b according to the interwebs were made from 1974. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffs_Emporium Posted September 7, 2021 Share Posted September 7, 2021 Something like this suitable for 4age mounting? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted September 8, 2021 Share Posted September 8, 2021 2 hours ago, MRWEST said: In my case for the RX3, am i likely to need it it plumbed back via intake? Im unsure if id pass 2.3(2) which states motor to be manufactured prior to 1975. (running a 13b) as 13b according to the interwebs were made from 1974. Could run a hose from the fitting on the oil filler tube to the air filter? Rotaries are a bit different as they dont have much blow by compared to a piston engine 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted September 8, 2021 Share Posted September 8, 2021 1 hour ago, dspec_tt131 said: Something like this suitable for 4age mounting? Might be a bit on the small side diameter wise for an engine mount Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffs_Emporium Posted September 8, 2021 Share Posted September 8, 2021 There's a 60mm diameter also Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted September 8, 2021 Share Posted September 8, 2021 M10 sounds a bit light? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kws Posted September 10, 2021 Share Posted September 10, 2021 I've checked the VIRM and I think its a no, but does a side window (IE: Drivers window) have to operate for a WOF or is it OK if it is stuck up (or down)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted September 10, 2021 Share Posted September 10, 2021 It does not need to work, but it does need to be up so the safety markings can be checked. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted September 10, 2021 Share Posted September 10, 2021 9 hours ago, kws said: I've checked the VIRM and I think its a no, but does a side window (IE: Drivers window) have to operate for a WOF or is it OK if it is stuck up (or down)? Nope. Well.. either that or the checkers didn’t bother for my mates Prelude that had wood holding the window up for several checks… edit: didn’t see the next page that Rog had already replied. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted September 10, 2021 Share Posted September 10, 2021 I wood agree. 3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kicker Posted September 11, 2021 Share Posted September 11, 2021 That's a useful post. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kicker Posted September 11, 2021 Share Posted September 11, 2021 Noones going to ply the doorcard off to see 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhangareiKE70 Posted September 13, 2021 Share Posted September 13, 2021 Ok so probably dumb question but I am gonna ask it anyway as I am not sure and want to clarify. I see things saying don't underseal things that are going to be shown to your certifier, as they may need you to scrape it off to show repairs etc. I am using Raptor liner as my top coat for my Datsun 4wd, does this mean I have to take it in for a pre-check in primer? It is a possibilty, as I will be taking the cab off to be blasted and I can take it back home via the certifiers but I am just confused really. Any clarifications on this? Also second question, regarding rego for the final product, which will be registered as a scratchbuilt. I still have both the chassis (Nissan Safari) and the body (Datsun 720) regos on hold and in my name, just in case, is this necessary? And I know they get thingy about tags being taken off for painting, does this still apply when a vehicle becomes scratchbuilt? TIA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted September 13, 2021 Share Posted September 13, 2021 Not a dumb question at all It's a different situation when its scratch built vs modified production reg on hold vs dead reg modified production and it can be confusing In your case, best to check with your certifier, i think it would be a good idea to show him before you put liner on or at least take heaps of photos, especially if there are mods in that area Its slightly different to a repair certifier who definitely would need to see it before paint or underseal , which is what you have probably read about. Because your vehicle is "new" there is no requirement for a repair cert Being scratch built there should be no problem removing the tag off the firewall as that wont be the vehicles identifier . Leave the chassis number on the chassis though, dont grind it off. Keep the reg/s on hold until the project is done and on the road, and having paperwork etc to prove you own both donors makes it clear that nothing's shady 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toddy415 Posted September 14, 2021 Share Posted September 14, 2021 Hey Cletus you should move down south I heard the last cert guy in Southland/Otago is giving up so the closest cert place will be Timaru. I am sure you will only get a few more muppits haha 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toddy415 Posted September 14, 2021 Share Posted September 14, 2021 There may be 2 in Dunedin not sure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted September 14, 2021 Share Posted September 14, 2021 Hey guys, quick q.. Ive been having issues downloading the manual online so sorry in advance for an easy one.. Fuel lines on a carb set up-full conversion. (5psi system). Can the fuel line be a low pressure hose run from the pump to the carb, mounted within the driveshaft tunnel? Or does it need to be a special type of fuel line these days? The hunter has a flat floor, no real chassis rails to tuck it next to. My plan was to have a pump mounted under the floor next to the tank, then run over the diff and along through the tunnel, tucking past the driveshaft hoop and up to the carb. P clips fitted every 300mm or less. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted September 15, 2021 Share Posted September 15, 2021 Fuel line- as long as its actual fuel line that will be fine, try and find good quality hose as it seems there is varying levels of quality available and some go hard and crack/perish quickly which is an extra pain when the whole fuel line is rubber As for mounting in the tunnel there is a requirement for making sure a failed drive shaft rotating in a driveshaft loop cannot contact a fuel or brake line, this appears to have been relaxed from what it used to be, you had to fit a rear loop as well when running fuel or brake lines in the tunnel This requirement has always puzzled me, as you cant protect the whole fuel or brake line from a broken shaft, as it depends where the shaft breaks I recommend running the fuel or brake lines away from the tunnel if possible for this reason 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted September 15, 2021 Share Posted September 15, 2021 Cert check sheet for fuel hoses and pipes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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