JustHarry Posted August 16, 2021 Share Posted August 16, 2021 42 minutes ago, 87creepin said: @Nominal just warrants, cars already registered here. Often pictures of the repair during stages and pre paint is more than enough to show it hasnt just been boged up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escortn Posted August 16, 2021 Share Posted August 16, 2021 Hey guys, I'm after a bit of clarification on the driveshaft loop thickness requirements. Been trolling this for a while but can't really find anything to confirm. The lvvta states "Material Specifications: A drive-shaft safety-loop should be made from either flat-section material at least 50 mm x 5 mm, or tubular- section material of at least 22 mm x 3 mm." Now what I want too know is can I cut, roll and weld some 3mm sheet to the required diameter and this is fine? Also can the mounting brackets be 3mm material as long as they have the required contact area or do they have to be 5mm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted August 16, 2021 Share Posted August 16, 2021 9 minutes ago, Escortn said: Hey guys, I'm after a bit of clarification on the driveshaft loop thickness requirements. Been trolling this for a while but can't really find anything to confirm. The lvvta states "Material Specifications: A drive-shaft safety-loop should be made from either flat-section material at least 50 mm x 5 mm, or tubular- section material of at least 22 mm x 3 mm." Now what I want too know is can I cut, roll and weld some 3mm sheet to the required diameter and this is fine? Also can the mounting brackets be 3mm material as long as they have the required contact area or do they have to be 5mm? Sketch of what you are thinking? If it's like the pic below then it needs to be 50x5mm 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escortn Posted August 16, 2021 Share Posted August 16, 2021 5 minutes ago, Nominal said: Sketch of what you are thinking? If it's like the pic below then it needs to be 50x5mm Pretty much that pic but instead of using 5mm wall thickness linepipe I'd roll some 3mm to the same diameter and weld the ends together, would that count as "tubular section" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datlow Posted August 16, 2021 Share Posted August 16, 2021 That’s still flat bar Tubular would I imagine mean as in heavy wall tube steel ie 2 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escortn Posted August 16, 2021 Share Posted August 16, 2021 4 minutes ago, datlow said: That’s still flat bar Tubular would I imagine mean as in heavy wall tube steel ie Ahhhhhhh yes this makes sense now. Legend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted August 18, 2021 Share Posted August 18, 2021 What's the deal with factory quad headlights in a car made in 1971. Can I have all four doing DIP and all four doing High beam? Or does it have to be only two on DIP and four on High beam? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted August 18, 2021 Share Posted August 18, 2021 You can have one pair of dipped and two pair of high beam. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MRWEST Posted August 22, 2021 Share Posted August 22, 2021 On 18/08/2021 at 22:03, AllTorque said: You can have one pair of dipped and two pair of high beam. Hmmm thats interesting, The impala i got certed and vinned with 4 high and 4 low beam, From that i take it its not allowed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted August 22, 2021 Share Posted August 22, 2021 (edited) There is one exception: “3. A vehicle first registered anywhere between 1 February 1977 and 31 March 1980 may be fitted with a second pair of dipped-beam headlamps” My guess is the VTNZ guys assumed it was originally like that. Here are the rules https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/lighting/headlamps Edited August 23, 2021 by AllTorque Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted August 23, 2021 Share Posted August 23, 2021 If turners is selling a vehicle as dereg, but ltsa shows it as still live, do they dereg it before handing it over? or is it just a mistake on their data entry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kws Posted August 23, 2021 Share Posted August 23, 2021 I've asked them about that before, and if it states it will be sold dereg they will dereg it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffs_Emporium Posted September 4, 2021 Share Posted September 4, 2021 Wondering if someone has a smart idea (cert happy)to overcome my engine fouling on bonnet/seat in my liteace. I planned on dropping the engine but I don't want the sump to be lowest point of van and it's actually ideal where it is. an idea I had was spacing the entire lot up with a 15-20mm flat bar continuously around red line with holes drilled so everything uses original fastener holes with longer bolts. Is there an alternative material that could be used that's a bit easier for average Joe to bend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted September 4, 2021 Share Posted September 4, 2021 How much hits? Can't just cut the cover and weld in a raised section above engine? Then just bend the seat springs up a little if they hit it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffs_Emporium Posted September 4, 2021 Share Posted September 4, 2021 Here's the first part of bonnet which just hits on the timing belt cover. proximity to the seatbelt is what I was worried about Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffs_Emporium Posted September 4, 2021 Share Posted September 4, 2021 Second half which seals down onto it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted September 4, 2021 Share Posted September 4, 2021 Would probably be easier cert wise to put a lump in to clear the part you need to, or move the engine, rather than space the whole thing up This is a common problem with 1uz into hiaces, the throttle body hits the lid right under the drivers seat/ buckle anchorage. The best way to sort those out is move the throttle body to the other side This is a fairly common issue with certs- people will modify safety related things to clear non safety related things, and create issues for cert later . Like instead of modifying a sump, moving the rack instead or cutting big lumps out of crossmembers Is it hitting the timing cover only? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffs_Emporium Posted September 4, 2021 Share Posted September 4, 2021 I did look for an off the shelf shortened and winged sump and pickup as I read they have ground clearance issues putting 4age into the lotus 7 kit cars but couldn't find anything. It's a mater of the least amount of work which is modding seat rather than new mounts and sump/pickup. I could cut a slot the running same direction as timing cover and still be atleast 100mm away from seatbelt mount and seat rail which is the only mounting on left side of drivers seat? There's an additional skin below which has a bulge in exactly the wrong place which isn't helpful Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffs_Emporium Posted September 4, 2021 Share Posted September 4, 2021 Is there a minimum clearance I would need from timing cover to seat cover? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted September 4, 2021 Share Posted September 4, 2021 make sure it cant touch it, including movement on rubber mounts You might get away with a 10mm gap if the mounts aren't too floppy? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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