Raizer Posted November 20, 2020 Share Posted November 20, 2020 For cars made before 01/01/2000 you need to have either a right-hand external mirror or an internal rearview mirror. After that date cars have to have both. All motorbikes are meant to have one fitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enzee Posted November 20, 2020 Share Posted November 20, 2020 cheers @Raizer, internal rearview mirror will do for me! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted November 20, 2020 Share Posted November 20, 2020 @enzee if you have tints you need both wing mirrors 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enzee Posted November 20, 2020 Share Posted November 20, 2020 1 hour ago, AllTorque said: @enzee if you have tints you need both wing mirrors Interesting, wouldn't have thought of that! But no tints so all good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zep Posted November 24, 2020 Share Posted November 24, 2020 Looking to do some chassis strengthening up the front of my car. I'll probably buy this kit, or make up my own version. https://www.retrofication.co.uk/338.html Mostly keen on the A pillar gussets and the chassis to bulkhead gussets. Am I going to run to any issues? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted November 24, 2020 Share Posted November 24, 2020 Should be fine, strengthening the factory structure is never usually a problem unless you start modifying areas forward of the suspension mounting and messing with how a vehicle crumples in an accident That doesnt happen very often though as theres not usually any reason to Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted November 24, 2020 Share Posted November 24, 2020 Would putting items like those on require cert, Clint? Or is it like stitch welding? (assuming that doesn't require, hadn't actually thought about it until now) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted November 24, 2020 Share Posted November 24, 2020 Yes, does require cert for welded parts like that. You can fit bolt on things like strut braces without a cert though https://lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplementary_information/LVVTA_LVV_Cert_Threshold.pdf This has all the stuff you can do that does not require cert 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zep Posted November 24, 2020 Share Posted November 24, 2020 Cheers man. Will be keen to have a chat about a few different things that need a cert soon. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sr2 Posted November 29, 2020 Share Posted November 29, 2020 Hi Guys, a quick question. I'm working on a brake & booster upgrade on a mates classic, a 318 VF Regal Coupe he's owned for 30 plus years - it's a babe! I'd like to use copper nickel brake lines (sometimes called cunifer or cupro-nickel) for their corrosion resistance and installed well they look heaps better than bundy tubing. Question is, I know its OK to use in Australia and I would be very surprised if it wasn't OK for NZ but is there any documentation available to confirm before I put a heap of time into making up new brake lines? Cheers, Si. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted November 29, 2020 Share Posted November 29, 2020 Have had no problems using the properly marked cu/ni tube from a brake shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted November 29, 2020 Share Posted November 29, 2020 Yep copper nickel or normal steel tube is ok, straight copper tube is a no go. stainless has to be done by a pre approved company or person 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sr2 Posted November 30, 2020 Share Posted November 30, 2020 Thanks guys, sounds like it's as I suspected. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kicker Posted November 30, 2020 Share Posted November 30, 2020 What are the rules around exhaust systems poking out the back of a vehicle? If I have some headers sticking out the back (rear engine config) I assume I'll need some kind of shielding as per 2.2(1)b below or does 2.3(9)c(ii) mean it's ok as it is at the back? Is it ok if they stick out past the rear bumper for a short section before tucking back in? Cheers 2.2(1) A low volume vehicle, except for one specified in section 3, must comply with the following general requirements: (a) an ornamental object or fitting must not protrude from a motor vehicle if the object or fitting is likely to injure a person; and (b) a protruding object or fitting that has a functional purpose must, if installed and operated on a motor vehicle that is operated on a road, be such that the risk of the object or fitting causing injury to a person is minimised; 2.3(9) An exhaust system fitted to a low volume vehicle must: (a) be of a good design using materials suitable for the purpose; and (b) terminate in a position where the outer end of the exhaust pipe is not directly underneath or in front of the passenger compartment; and (c) in the case of an external exhaust system which extends beyond the outer longitudinal extremity of the vehicle or the outer sidewall of the tyres: (i) have a radius of no less than 3 mm on any sections facing toward the front of the vehicle; and (ii) have any sections of exposed exhaust contactable from the front of the vehicle or adjacent to points of occupant entry and exit adequately heat-shielded; and (d) be in good condition and free of leaks; and (e) be securely attached to the vehicle, using a mounting system that enables all necessary engine movement without stressing the exhaust system; and (f) along with the body of a low volume vehicle in the areas adjacent to the vehicle’s exhaust system, be sufficiently sealed so as to prevent the entry of any exhaust gases into the passenger compartment, and (g) be designed, constructed, and fitted in such a way that the exhaust system, or components within the exhaust system, cannot be removed, altered, or interfered with, without the use of hand tools. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gibbon Posted December 13, 2020 Share Posted December 13, 2020 This doesn't really belong here but not worth starting a new thread over: I was wondering what the weights listed on the dataplate relate to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted December 14, 2020 Share Posted December 14, 2020 requirements for tyre markings wen going through compliance/rerego? for motorcycle, its got new knobbly china tyres on it. so probably no good, but i only see this for reasons to fail i. ‘NOT FOR HIGHWAY USE’ ii. ‘NHS’ (Not for Highway Service) iii. ‘FOR TRAILER USE ONLY’ iv. ‘ADV’ (Agricultural Drawn Vehicle) v. ‘RACING PURPOSES ONLY’. looks like its got load and speed ratings on them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted December 14, 2020 Share Posted December 14, 2020 Cars have to have a safety standard marking on them, cant find entry requirements for bikes so I dunno. @MopedNZ may have some input Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustHarry Posted December 14, 2020 Share Posted December 14, 2020 A neibour has a isuzu elf. 1996. He is doing one of those plastic campers that go on the back of utes on it . As the deck will be gone he wont be able to load it to what it used to be. Is there a way to change from a COF to a WoF or because the factory has given it a Gvm of like 4t is he stuck with going for a COF? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted December 14, 2020 Share Posted December 14, 2020 10 minutes ago, JustHarry said: A neibour has a isuzu elf. 1996. He is doing one of those plastic campers that go on the back of utes on it . As the deck will be gone he wont be able to load it to what it used to be. Is there a way to change from a COF to a WoF or because the factory has given it a Gvm of like 4t is he stuck with going for a COF? I think he's stuck with the chassis rating and COF 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted December 14, 2020 Share Posted December 14, 2020 Yep stuck with what it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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