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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs


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I picked up an old Cadillac off FB that I would like to put through entry compliance and enjoy. It had all new front bushes with zerks and new seals when it was imported 24 years ago but now the rubber dust caps  have perished although the suspension is tight because it has only been for the odd blat up the road since replaced. Will the missing dust covers/seals trip me up when I put it through compliance if I take them off or is it more a case of if everything is tight they will be happy? Bushings themselves are not rubber. 

Car was first registered in the US in 1954, if I am reading the legislation correctly it won't need seatbelts as on the road prior to Jan/1955 even if not in NZ? I hope this is the case as has jump seats that would be a pain to deal with.

I had previously read that an imported car has to be registered by the person that imported it and can't be sold for 6 months. Is this still the go or is a paper trail sweet to show where it come from?

Cheers.

 

 

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Hi @cletus hope you're well

Hopefully another quicky for you :) Do you see any issues with this notch at all? Keeping in mind that it will also get plug welded and fish plated.
It's made out of 10 Gauge CRS, I have the car construction manual but it doesn't really go into deal on C notches.

https://www.murraykustomrods.com/store.php#!/1949-1954-Chevy-Car-C-Notch/p/124962205/category=32296533

Thanks :)

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On 19/08/2020 at 20:54, scooters said:

Stumbling my way thew Lift kits for the coil spring independent front end modern day 4x4. Think ranger, Prado etc... 

I can see spring spacers and ball joint spacers are just terrible. Not the way to go. 

A lot of vehicles in AU solve the issue with replacement upper control arms a better way to go (imo) To regain the geometry lost in the lifting. 

Do we have any brands of upper control arms that are passed into out system here in NZ that have ticked the box's and are ok to use ? 

 

 

@scooters Talk to these guys: https://trundlesautomotive.co.nz/

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I did a colorado a while ago with a fairly big lift, first it had upper ball joint spacers, I put a gopro on the top arm and jammed the brakes on a few times, you could clearly see the arm flexing due to the increased leverage 

It then got some aftermarket arms but they had some issue with cast or forged bits being welded so they couldnt be certified 

Then the arms got the spacers put back on but had substantial bracing added, they still flexed slightly but it was similar to a stock one I tested so they were deemed ok 

The shocks had to be lowered to the bottom of their adjustment to get enough droop travel as well 

 

Lifted IFS things are a pain in the balls, everyone who does these mods wants their ute lifted as much as possible, and have often spent a lot of money to get stupid angles on suspension arms,  no droop travel, cv boots that flog out every 5k, and are usually very reluctant to fix them (lower it back to a height where things work)

 

 

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Ground clearance,

Lower than 100mm needs cert? Or do cert guys not like to do stuff under a hundy? (I should know this stuff, but I dont) does that include the zhorst too? I'm thinking I really should buy some 50mm drop spindles. But cunting around under it earlier tonight, a 145mm block of wood wouldnt quite fit under the zhorst. It's a festering cunt of a shape. Am I gonna have to fit taller tyres should I go for cert, (sooner or later i probably should) or jam a steel block between the pipe and the chassis heat her up and jack the car up on the pipe to redistribute its shape sideways? Or is a cert man gonna be a GC and say 90ish mm is all G, sick ride bro do a skid?

 

 

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100mm is the cutoff point when something must have a cert, you can cert something lower than that but a lot of different factors come into it, generally exhaust is not counted in the 100mm deal , just structural parts  like chassis and crossmembers etc  

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