Ghostchips Posted February 2, 2020 Share Posted February 2, 2020 Why would you put the VIN in a place where it'd get pounded by rocks & rot off in 6 weeks? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted February 2, 2020 Share Posted February 2, 2020 Why would the chassis be getting pounded with rocks inside the wheel arch? It might get dirty, sure. A little more scratches than if tucked away neatly in the engine bay or a door jam but unless someone was going out of their way to destroy it, considering it will be close to the pivot points for the suspension, I'm sure it will be absolutely fine. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kws Posted February 2, 2020 Share Posted February 2, 2020 Contacted the vtnz that did the compliance and they had no records of where it was affixed but thought it should be in the engine bay near chassis plate (which is on slam panel). They're going to contact the current owner and work through it with him, which may require a new plate to be fitted. So, when getting a car re-reg'd, double check they fitted a VIN plate! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted February 3, 2020 Share Posted February 3, 2020 4 3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kws Posted February 3, 2020 Share Posted February 3, 2020 Unfortunately not a hell of a lot of choice when it comes to re-registering a car 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M.H. Posted February 3, 2020 Share Posted February 3, 2020 AA in corunna bay in napier make it so easy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted February 3, 2020 Share Posted February 3, 2020 Cert/brake modification question. So maybe you have been following my triumph project thread... For my front brake conversion I machined down the back of the hubs where the discs bolt on, by 4.5mm, to get the disc in the right place in relation to the caliper. Some times after doing that I realised that the interior diameter of the hub is larger in the middle. I was slightly concerned that machining the disc mounting face might be close to breaking through to the interior. I had a spare hub, it was scrap because I machined the disc location diameter undersize..... Soooooo I cut it in half with the band saw. I've drawn in the 4.5mm that has been removed. The thickness has gone from 6mm to 3.5mm. How thin is too thin? The disc is bolted to the wheel side of the hub so I don't think that area is loaded during braking. Is this going to be okay/safe? What would @cletus say? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted February 3, 2020 Share Posted February 3, 2020 If that came to me as a job, I wouldn't pass it. you could run it past LVVTA and see what they say, they might approve it if you can prove its strong enough somehow But You have an engine which makes a lot more power, a decent brake upgrade, I assume better suspension and tyres than original... so the load on that part is increased over what it was originally designed for, and now it's nearly half as thick in a critical area. I dont think it would go through Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted February 3, 2020 Share Posted February 3, 2020 8 hours ago, cletus said: If that came to me as a job, I wouldn't pass it. you could run it past LVVTA and see what they say, they might approve it if you can prove its strong enough somehow But You have an engine which makes a lot more power, a decent brake upgrade, I assume better suspension and tyres than original... so the load on that part is increased over what it was originally designed for, and now it's nearly half as thick in a critical area. I dont think it would go through Dang it. If i were to machine some hubs from solid. Do i need to get design approval first? Do i make them from cast iron, or steel, or could i even use aluminium? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted February 3, 2020 Share Posted February 3, 2020 12 minutes ago, Adoom said: Dang it. If i were to machine some hubs from solid. Do i need to get design approval first? Do i make them from cast iron, or steel, or could i even use aluminium? Why not just skim some off the brake caliper adapter bracket to move the caliper back? Seems that it would be easier. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted February 3, 2020 Share Posted February 3, 2020 1 hour ago, Nominal said: Why not just skim some off the brake caliper adapter bracket to move the caliper back? Seems that it would be easier. I can't, the caliper mounting lu gs on the upright would occupy the same space as the caliper frame thing. It looks like you could move it in the photo, but there are raised ribs in the way. One possible option could be to use Subaru 4 pot calipers(only from WRX??), if I can find any for not stupid money. AFAIK the mounting bolt distance is the same on all calipers, but since the 4 pots don't have that bracket, they only have mounting lugs, I should be able to move the caliper back. This option might possibly cost less than the materials and time to make custom hubs. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted February 3, 2020 Share Posted February 3, 2020 What is actually hitting? If you can't machine the hub, can you machine what is hitting it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted February 3, 2020 Share Posted February 3, 2020 (edited) 46 minutes ago, Bling said: What is actually hitting? If you can't machine the hub, can you machine what is hitting it? The hub is already machined, so everything fits and nothing hits. But the machining has weakened the hub. With an unmachined hub, the disc sit's 4.5mm further inboard. The subaru caliper bracket(red) is underneath the mounting lugs(blue) on the upright. There is only half a gnats nut gap between them. My adapter plate ties them together. For the caliper to line up with the disc 4.5mm further inboard, the blue and red have to merge inside each other. The green line, AFAIK, is how the 4 pot WRX caliper would fit, the red bracket is no longer needed(I still have to get a hold of one to measure). But it might be the solution to my problem because there is nothing in the way of moving it inboard. But "WRX" = $$$$. EDIT: This fopar happened because when I was mocking up and measuring, the upright I used had a small ridge on the spindle and the bearing wasn't properly seated. Edited February 4, 2020 by Adoom 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted February 4, 2020 Share Posted February 4, 2020 Ah I see, I didn't notice the hubs had already been machined, that's a bummer! Currently going though similar brake related issues with LCA and bump steer problems to resolve. Good times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted February 4, 2020 Share Posted February 4, 2020 24 minutes ago, Adoom said: The hub is already machined, so everything fits and nothing hits. But the machining has weakened the hub. With an unmachined hub, the disc sit's 4.5mm further inboard. The subaru caliper bracket(red) is underneath the mounting lugs(blue) on the upright. There is only half a gnats nut gap between them. My adapter plate ties them together. For the caliper to line up with the disc 4.5mm further inboard, the blue and red have to merge inside each other. The green line, AFAIK, is how the 4 pot WRX caliper would fit, the red bracket is no longer needed(I still have to get a hold of one to measure). But it might be the solution to my problem because there is nothing in the way of moving it inboard. But "WRX" = $$$$. EDIT: This fopar happened because when I was mocking up and measuring, the upright I used had a small ridge on the spindle and the bearing wasn't properly seated. Yes, it's a dick around trying to find calipers that will work. You could take a walk around a wrecking yard looking for options. I have some sort of Subaru ones on my MM project car that work with the Cortina uprights. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Esky_addict Posted February 7, 2020 Share Posted February 7, 2020 (edited) Is there any threads on here about airbags for beginners, after info about cert requirements like control systems etc Edit just having a peruse of "AIR BAG SUSPENSION CHAT" now Edited February 7, 2020 by Esky_addict 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted February 7, 2020 Share Posted February 7, 2020 2 hours ago, Esky_addict said: Is there any threads on here about airbags for beginners, after info about cert requirements like control systems etc Edit just having a peruse of "AIR BAG SUSPENSION CHAT" now Buy this chapter of the Car Construction Manual - http://www.lvvta.org.nz/shop/chapter-6-suspension-systems/ It has a bunch of info that will help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Esky_addict Posted February 7, 2020 Share Posted February 7, 2020 3 minutes ago, KKtrips said: Buy this chapter of the Car Construction Manual - http://www.lvvta.org.nz/shop/chapter-6-suspension-systems/ It has a bunch of info that will help. Yep brought the online version today before asking on here. Havent got the bloody email from them containing the link though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted February 7, 2020 Share Posted February 7, 2020 Double check junkmail, I have a feeling I had one email end up there from the store. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted February 7, 2020 Share Posted February 7, 2020 3 minutes ago, Esky_addict said: Yep brought the online version today before asking on here. Havent got the bloody email from them containing the link though. Yeah check ya junkmail. Also the password is your email address, most people dont read that part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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