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1 hour ago, Truenotch said:

 

@Bling - are the springs you’re using on an adjustable perch, or are they at a set height? If you can’t fit keepers and don’t get enough droop then adding weight at cert time is the only option (full tank of gas, couple of duffel bags full of concrete etc). 

Going with the setup you linked, with the perch and quite short spring. Hopefully it doesn't come to that, but figures I come up with suggest the car minus diff will be pretty light in the rear. So as you say, my options will be pretty limited. Can't actually source springs any lower rate for the rear of the car, rock hard place etc.

36 minutes ago, mjrstar said:

I was able to give my honda an extra 30mm droop, as its light in the rear spring selection was a bit tricky.. Even with perch and lower body adjustment.. 

/ goes good now. 

Granted its a totally different chassis / vehicle usage, what spring rates are you running in the rear?

35 minutes ago, Truenotch said:

Are these the springs you're using? Their website says they are progressive to soak up bumps etc, which might mean that you'll get extra droop when compared to a linear 4.7kg/mm spring. 

https://shop.battlegarage-rs.com/products/bgrs-x-swift-ae86-springs-rear-coilover-type

Pretty sure yes, specifically designed to give much better performance on the road. Figured I was on the right track dropping the spring rate as low as I could. But that might not even be low enough. With them being progressive I was hoping that they'd droop a bit more before the spring rate bumps up on the rest of the travel. Fronts are easy enough as keeper springs can be made to fit no worries. 

I can see both sides of the coin, fitting stupidly high spring rates + keepers is a shit solution. But fitting much more suitable spring rates for the job + keepers to get 10mm more droop as per cert requirement doesn't seem too bad. I've spent the coin to get what I think will be suitable spring rates, coupled with custom valved to the spring rate shocks, I can't do much more really.

 

Will dummy it up next week hopefully and see how it sits.

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The car is 165kg each side in the rear, the arm ratio for the wheel to the shock is around 3:2 from memory. 

I started with an 8kg rear, went down to 6kg, then added the 80lb helper spring. 

It is 'soft' but grips up well compared to the 8kg spring. No rear sway bar connected at present for hillclimb events. If i ever take it back to the track id reconnect the rear bar again. 

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Boring daily wof chat.

Failed a wof on 27. Headlights adjusted too low.

Found this handy diagram

570wide.png

Here's my pattern, about 50 mm lower @ 3.0m than the height of the centre of the beam.

These lights have some kind of self levelling witchcraft, I'm reluctant to mess with them as they seem in spec to me, and it hasn't failed a WOF before, and haven't been touched. Am I missing the obvious somewhere? Apparently they were very apologetic about failing to my wife...

olmx025y.w2m.jpg

Cheers!

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On 17/11/2019 at 18:39, AllTorque said:

Should take the wof inspector no more than 5 mins to adjust the headlights at the inspection. Did they try to adjust your lights? Was it a testing station? You will struggle to get them in the right spot without a beam setter.

Yeah, was a testing station in Motueka. The adjusters are a little concealed compared to an old school sealed beam. They tried to tell my wife that the adjusters had been messed with and she'd have to take it to a dealer/mechanic to sort. Pretty painful, to be fed such obvious bollocks. Will take it back next time I can get there or take it somewhere else as its an hour return trip. 

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Towbar related question:

Picked up a towbar for free from a local GC for my Datsun/Patrol project. Would work well as is (solidly made, made by an outfit in auckland, still has sticker), but has a standard tongue setup, kinda keen to get a receiver hitch put on for having the option of a bow shackle for offroad recovery point. 

This, from what I understand, will require lopping off the old tongue, and welding on a piece of box for the receiver hitch (maybe with gussets). 2x local places I have tried so far reckon $3-400, which seems like a lot? Especially since I have told them I don't want it painted as I can have it properly blasted/primed at work then just put the topcoat on myself.

Question: Do I have to have a "towbar shop" do this? Or can I just have it welded up by an engineer? Whole lot is going through cert, but this is probably a WOF issue? Every towbar I've ever had has come on the car and I haven't really messed with them before (for good reason).   

TIA

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As far as I am aware towbars don't need any certification/approval and modifications are allowed to them.No specification that it needs to be done by an official towbar place. VIRM says tow bars never need LVVTA approval.

https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/towing-connections/light-vehicle-towbar-and-fifth-wheel

 

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47 minutes ago, WhangareiKE70 said:

Towbar related question:

Picked up a towbar for free from a local GC for my Datsun/Patrol project. Would work well as is (solidly made, made by an outfit in auckland, still has sticker), but has a standard tongue setup, kinda keen to get a receiver hitch put on for having the option of a bow shackle for offroad recovery point. 

This, from what I understand, will require lopping off the old tongue, and welding on a piece of box for the receiver hitch (maybe with gussets). 2x local places I have tried so far reckon $3-400, which seems like a lot? Especially since I have told them I don't want it painted as I can have it properly blasted/primed at work then just put the topcoat on myself.

Question: Do I have to have a "towbar shop" do this? Or can I just have it welded up by an engineer? Whole lot is going through cert, but this is probably a WOF issue? Every towbar I've ever had has come on the car and I haven't really messed with them before (for good reason).   

TIA

Build it yourself, I've done it a couple of times for old cars. No issues at WOF time.

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11 hours ago, WhangareiKE70 said:

Sweet, will make something up (over-engineered) and get the local engineer to weld it up. 

My welding is getting pretty good/consistently better, trust it for a lot of things, but will just pay someone for this one. Just wasn't keen for paying $3-400.

This is what I did for this one that I built for my old cruiser, did all the metal work made it strong AF and then took it to a pro towbar place to mig it up and make the tongue. Got a load sticker that way too

 

Screenshot_20191120-193207__01.jpg

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19 hours ago, chris r said:

Re Rear drum to disc conversion Would brackets like this be okay? Uses stock rear disc and calipers/parking brake etc from a later model car. I'm assuming correct grade hardware would be required

They bolt to the bearing carrier assembly

What materials are they made from?

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