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15 hours ago, MaxPower said:

I've just brought a 1978 lancer that requires re-vinning, is it a mish? or is it similar to a green or pink sticker wof? also I wouldn't mind under-sealing the car while I refresh some of the suspension, will that make it harder if I put fresh under-seal on? (not trying to hide anything its mint) 

 

I just re registered a Falcon, inspection cost $400. I had already undersealed the bottom as it had spotty surface rust.

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If they spot any rust they'll ram their cock so far up your wallets arse,  itl be able to floss with their banjo string. 

Any rust (or evidence of previous rust repairs)  will require a repair cert. I've heard horror stories of people having to remove new paint jobs to get repair cert.

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I've bought a fresh import Mark II that has been registered as a "Chaser Mark 2".  I've planned to go to the compliance centre to get them to submit a LANDATA correction form, however the cert plate also says Chaser.  If i get the registration changed to a Mark II, am I just able to contact the certifier to get a new plate with the correct model?  Note that the dealership did the cert not me.

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On 31/10/2019 at 16:57, ThePog said:

I am pretty sure the saf has a collapsible section, and I am pretty sure I still have it in a box somewhere. I can drag it out for a look/send it to you if you like..

That would be awesome. The chassis that I bought only had the steering as far as the box wasn't aware of that. Got the engine and gearbox in the hole for the first time and realised I can keep the OG column as far as the firewall, so will mean I only need an intermediate shaft to adapt the collapsible Saf part to the Datsun column, which is significantly easier than what I was expecting. :D

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1 minute ago, WhangareiKE70 said:

That would be awesome. The chassis that I bought only had the steering as far as the box wasn't aware of that. Got the engine and gearbox in the hole for the first time and realised I can keep the OG column as far as the firewall, so will mean I only need an intermediate shaft to adapt the collapsible Saf part to the Datsun column, which is significantly easier than what I was expecting. :D

I will see if I can find it this weekend, it will be pretty buried in the container.

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So that is 40mm minimum from bumpstop if said bumpstop can not be part of the compression?

Have been doing some maths with my springs and in theory i'm in for a fun time come cert time. Not even running silly (IMO) spring rates, shits going to be tight like a tiger. I better put my thinking cap on, good to know what numbers i'm working too though thanks.

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Unless you have short and super hard springs then 40mm of compression should be easy otherwise you are going to need lighter springs.
Droop should be manageable too, just takes some braining to figure out the best way to adjust your adjustables to get it.

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Springs are F-6KG/R-4.7KG, fronts are easy with keeper springs if required, rears not so much. Rears i'm going with OEM setup so I don't need to worry about shifting the car weight to the factory shock location. What that does mean however is that the rear springs are factory(ish) diameter, so doubt keeper springs will exist. I think the spring rates should be suitable for a road car. At a kerb weight of around 950kg, my downfall is the lack of weight in the rear of the car to create the droop.  Will of course discuss all of this with my certifier when he inspects my parts soon, but always good to do homework now and come up with solutions.

In theory I need 190kg in each rear corner to net 40mm droop. I the front I need 240kg in each corner. Tallied up I get 860kg, I imagine any extra weight I can actually use will be in the front, with the diff and wheels bringing in the rest of the total. Brain is melting at this point. Maybe a towbar made from girders is the solution.

 

 

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20 hours ago, Bling said:

So that is 40mm minimum from bumpstop if said bumpstop can not be part of the compression?

A typical coilover with a foam type bump stop can compress quite a lot so you could include 10-20mm of bump stop compression IMO

Depends on suspension though and the application so by no means is that set in stone and a different certifier might have a different opinion 

Also IMO,  keeper springs to fix droop issues is a bit of a band aid 'box tick' fix as the whole idea of a minimum amount of droop was to make sure the spring rate was ok for a road car 

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13 hours ago, cletus said:

Also IMO,  keeper springs to fix droop issues is a bit of a band aid 'box tick' fix as the whole idea of a minimum amount of droop was to make sure the spring rate was ok for a road car 

While I get the point about rates here, adding droop with keeper springs is still useful. It stops cars from picking up inside wheels around corners and keeps wheels on the ground over big dips and bumps. 

@Bling - are the springs you’re using on an adjustable perch, or are they at a set height? If you can’t fit keepers and don’t get enough droop then adding weight at cert time is the only option (full tank of gas, couple of duffel bags full of concrete etc). 

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I don't have a lot if time for a flimsy 5 or 10 lb keeper, but a heavyweight second spring (80lb plus) can be quite an improvement.. I was able to give my honda an extra 30mm droop, as its light in the rear spring selection was a bit tricky.. Even with perch and lower body adjustment.. 

 

/ goes good now. 

IMG_20190517_153524_compress74.jpg

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16 hours ago, Bling said:

Springs are F-6KG/R-4.7KG

Are these the springs you're using? Their website says they are progressive to soak up bumps etc, which might mean that you'll get extra droop when compared to a linear 4.7kg/mm spring. 

https://shop.battlegarage-rs.com/products/bgrs-x-swift-ae86-springs-rear-coilover-type

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