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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs


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Hypothetically, in 2050 when I get this thing to cert time, it'll be a case of book a date at a cert place in AUCKLAND, (bugger this jerk up here) trailer it down. I'm building it to the HCM with guidance from Dave at Henwood Automotive/The Hot Rod Shop Whangarei. Sound right gents

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Sorting our brakes for a racecar that is intended to be certified and have been sent the front rotors to machine an adapter to suit the new hubs.

Is this set up even legal, 6x M6 seems a little light?

Are rotor adapters allowed/are there guidelines for material selection?

There is no other mechanical connection other than the bolts, this seems like asking for trouble or is that normal?

Please forgive the tie wire too, these were part of a stack of parts purchased but thankfully never raced.

IMG_7826.jpg

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The "adaptor' is called a tophat, as a rule of thumb they are usually  fitted with 6,8 or 10 bolts. As long as it's not a floating setup 6x 6mm is fine, the torque is not transmitted through the shear of the bolts it's transmitted through the friction from the two surfaces being clamped together. 

Nothing wrong with the tie wire's at all (everything on a race car tries to undo itself!). By the look of the radial surface cracks they've done some work and had some heat in them.

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16 hours ago, cletus said:

Are you sure they are 6mm? They look like 8mm from here 

M6 for sure

That tie wire is a disgrace, is not that hard to do correctly.

If any bolt came free and friction was reduced, there is nothing to hold it together, on track an expensive embarrassment, but for a road car i'd personally like a bit more more redundancy.

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5 hours ago, NickJ said:

M6 for sure

That tie wire is a disgrace, is not that hard to do correctly.

If any bolt came free and friction was reduced, there is nothing to hold it together, on track an expensive embarrassment, but for a road car i'd personally like a bit more more redundancy.

Tophats are fitted to rotors with a cap screw and a lock-nut, usually a distorted thread type or similar due to the high temperatures involved. In 22 years of motor racing I've yet to see one come loose. If one ever did you'd notice through the steering wheel very quickly, I don't think you have a safety issue there.

The main thing I would be concentrating on would be that your tophat was hub-centric on the hub and the rim was hub-centric on either the tophat or the hub.

 

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8 hours ago, tortron said:

Wire brush and some rust converter. Not close enough to the hinges to fail

so is anything like this confined to the bottom edge ok? this is the worst of 4 doors, they all have them but not as bad this one.

apparently a feature on early mk 3 mondoes....

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14 minutes ago, Nominal said:

Could possibly fail under the '50mm' rule, but you'll probably be OK if you clean it up first.

https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/vehicle-structure/structure-incl2.-frontal-impact

 

 

yeah at least I'll have to colour match the rust area to the rest of the door before WOF... :grin:

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