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59 minutes ago, cletus said:

what application?

A few options for a motorbike engined car

 

1. Either an MX5 rear subframe narrowed (but keeping stock suspension components/dimensions) and using mx5 diff converted to sprocket drive (mid engine chain drive) and shortened half shafts (hoping to just cut and respline if possible)

2. The same subframe using an IRS holden diff (normal prop shaft to front) and modified half shafts to mx5 rear brakes (maybe respline would work, maybe weld...dont like idea of welding) .

3. Civic diff and brakes converted to sprocket using in fwd format but need to shorten shafts. 

 

If that makes sense?

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Noob question on CoFs: Working on a friends camper, and we've gutted it. Can we CoF it with no interior, and then do the camper related stuff later? Figure it's better/easier doing that while empty and repairable. From what I picked up on the Civil-ian thread that's the way to go.

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46 minutes ago, The Bronze said:

Noob question on CoFs: Working on a friends camper, and we've gutted it. Can we CoF it with no interior, and then do the camper related stuff later? Figure it's better/easier doing that while empty and repairable. From what I picked up on the Civil-ian thread that's the way to go.

Has to have bed table and cooker to reg as mobile home 

easy enough to throw in even if the interior is gutted 

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14 hours ago, Yowzer said:

We get Hilux's and Bounty's in at work all the time with them failed, it's amazing how happily they lock the rears with even the lightest of brake pressure. Scary as fuck in the wet haha

Good to know. I’ll unbolt the arm and take it for a drive first to see what it’s like

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  • 2 weeks later...

One at work got failed for no sleeve in the hole as it went inside the draw bar

also another ones line is run along the front of the axle to the other brake and it was failed for being all rusty (from stones flicking up etc) 

they replaced it with new line still along the front :doubt:

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These are my lower control arms for the front suspension on the Morris. They were pro-built but quite a long time ago.

These are upside down, the mount hangs below the arm when on the car.

Will the lower shock mounts need a plate joining each side, like I've professionally drawn on the back one? If so, I'll put them on before getting them ND tested.

 

 

P1020938.JPG

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I don't think it would make much of a difference myself, but no reason why you couldn't add it if you want

the lower coilover bolt and crush tube holds the 2 plates together, and the part that wants to 'tear off' is at the other end of where an extra weld would be for the added plate.

 

have you done a design approval for the front end? 

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10 minutes ago, cletus said:

I don't think it would make much of a difference myself, but no reason why you couldn't add it if you want

the lower coilover bolt and crush tube holds the 2 plates together, and the part that wants to 'tear off' is at the other end of where an extra weld would be for the added plate.

 

have you done a design approval for the front end? 

Not yet, waiting for my son to do the drawings (a multi-year process :) )

It was built by Graham Berry's and patterned on the Locost design with Cortina uprights so I don't expect any major issues (hopefully....)

I've thrashed the car around a dirt track on a dairy paddock and nothing broke, but I'll probably add the extra plates anyway as it's easiest to do it now.

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10 minutes ago, scooters said:

Is the design approval a knights of the round table discussion? 

Where by all the LVV guys all get together and decide if they are happy with the idea placed in front of them ? 

 

 

Technical Advisory Committee, but yes.

https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_01_2016_LVV_Custom_Independent_Front_and_Rear_Suspension_Approval_Application_Guide.pdf

 

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