cletus Posted January 10, 2019 Share Posted January 10, 2019 11 hours ago, Shakotom said: Good morning, qurstion you probably get asked 100000 times a day, what’s the budget one should allow for cost for coilovers and wheels on a Japanese vechile? also for getting multiple wheel options is there a further cost per wheel? thank. retail price is $580 for a basic cert inspection, plus hoist hire at a workshop if necessary extra set of wheels- there isn't a set price for that, stuff like that I base on how long it takes and how helpful the owner is. Ie if theres another set of wheels in the boot and I have to swap them over myself, then it would cost more, than if the owner swaps them while im doing the paperwork 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted January 10, 2019 Share Posted January 10, 2019 13 hours ago, KP_wag said: Thanks for that. So my reading of that is that you can have a switched 'bimodal' exhaust as long as it is not manually actuated and as long as it doesn't exceed the max decibel limits under either mode? I have had this question before and the answer is yes you can have a bi-modal exhaust, but one side has to be quiet, and the other side has to be more quiet. ie: you cannot have quiet and loud modes. So effectively exactly what you and Cletus have said. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KP_wag Posted January 10, 2019 Share Posted January 10, 2019 6 minutes ago, KKtrips said: I have had this question before and the answer is yes you can have a bi-modal exhaust, but one side has to be quiet, and the other side has to be more quiet. ie: you cannot have quiet and loud modes. So effectively exactly what you and Cletus have said. Great, will look to go that way then I think, a boost referenced valve that is as loud (flowey) as legally poss when open, and quiet as possible when closed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shakotom Posted January 10, 2019 Share Posted January 10, 2019 Thank for reply @cletus 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kws Posted January 10, 2019 Share Posted January 10, 2019 3 hours ago, KP_wag said: Great, will look to go that way then I think, a boost referenced valve that is as loud (flowey) as legally poss when open, and quiet as possible when closed How would a WOF etc test this? Not like they can run it up on a dyno, get it on boost and then volume test it. Its a good idea, im just curious myself. Or more likely, would they just require you to have it in the "open" setting during testing, and fail you if you cant/dont? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KP_wag Posted January 10, 2019 Share Posted January 10, 2019 My guess is once it's got the cert on it, WOF guy will not be that interested (my WOF guy at least). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted January 10, 2019 Share Posted January 10, 2019 7 hours ago, kws said: How would a WOF etc test this? Not like they can run it up on a dyno, get it on boost and then volume test it. Its a good idea, im just curious myself. The decibel test is done with the engine not 'loaded' ie in neutral, take it up to the test rpm, start the meter reading, then let it drop back to idle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 So I've got my spacer to put the rod end at the right height. I've got my "beefy washer" at the bottom to prevent pull through. I've got a Grade 8.8 bolt and the shank goes all the way through all the bits(the extra spacer at the top allows me to tighten the nut). But that beefy washer and bolt head are now REALLY close to the wheel. I had to space the wheel out with some 3mm washers. So now I have 3mm clearance. How much clearance is enough clearance? I can space the wheels out further... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 You might be able to give yourself a bit more clearance with an Allen head bolt There isn't a set minimum but I'd aim for at least 5mm . If you have to run spacers anyway it's not a big deal to space it out a bit more 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhangareiKE70 Posted January 17, 2019 Share Posted January 17, 2019 Question regarding steering setups for my 720/Safari mashup. I have the NZCCM, and it has this section: Essentially my question is: The pair of UJs (1 either side of the intermediate shaft) would be supported at the firewall, and the steering box. Is that what it's asking for, or some sort of inline bearing on the intermediate shaft? Probably an obvious answer but I wasn't sure. If the answer is a support on the intermediate shaft, then do I need to incorporate some degree of movement (i.e. rubber mounting) as it is a cab on frame and there will be a degree of flex? Or is that negligible and it can just be hard mounted? Thanks in advance. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CorollaGT Posted January 21, 2019 Share Posted January 21, 2019 On a macpherson strut type suspenion - is there a minimum amount of thread that needs to extend past the end of a nut on the two bolts securing the shock to the hub(knuckle/carrier)? EDIT: 'Two threads clear' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted January 22, 2019 Share Posted January 22, 2019 I've read conflicting information, is it acceptable to modify/shorten/weld half shafts? EDIT: Looking into it, I don't think welding is an option but shortening and resplining could work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashkellybarr Posted February 3, 2019 Share Posted February 3, 2019 If a vehicle come with lspv as per pic. Can I remove it when certing for other mods? i.e longer rear break line for lift and remove it all together cherers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted February 3, 2019 Share Posted February 3, 2019 You need some sort of proportioning valve or the rears will have to much pressure and lock up. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted February 3, 2019 Share Posted February 3, 2019 We get Hilux's and Bounty's in at work all the time with them failed, it's amazing how happily they lock the rears with even the lightest of brake pressure. Scary as fuck in the wet haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mof Posted February 3, 2019 Share Posted February 3, 2019 What about cutting the long rod off short and locking it in a position that suits? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted February 3, 2019 Share Posted February 3, 2019 1 hour ago, Ashkellybarr said: If a vehicle come with lspv as per pic. Can I remove it when certing for other mods? i.e longer rear break line for lift and remove it all together cherers yep as long as the brake bias is ok, ie lock it in the right position, or fit an adjustable bias valve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted February 3, 2019 Share Posted February 3, 2019 On 18/01/2019 at 09:07, WhangareiKE70 said: Question regarding steering setups for my 720/Safari mashup. I have the NZCCM, and it has this section: Essentially my question is: The pair of UJs (1 either side of the intermediate shaft) would be supported at the firewall, and the steering box. Is that what it's asking for, or some sort of inline bearing on the intermediate shaft? Probably an obvious answer but I wasn't sure. If the answer is a support on the intermediate shaft, then do I need to incorporate some degree of movement (i.e. rubber mounting) as it is a cab on frame and there will be a degree of flex? Or is that negligible and it can just be hard mounted? Thanks in advance. if you just have 2x ujoints, you wont need another support, the steering column (if its got a bush/bearing in the bottom) will support one, steering box will support the other if the body is rubber mounted you will need some sort of flex in the system to allow for body movement on the chassis- either a rubber rag joint, or ujoints and a sliding shaft 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted February 3, 2019 Share Posted February 3, 2019 On 22/01/2019 at 11:20, CorollaGT said: On a macpherson strut type suspenion - is there a minimum amount of thread that needs to extend past the end of a nut on the two bolts securing the shock to the hub(knuckle/carrier)? EDIT: 'Two threads clear' correct, 2 threads past the nut 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted February 3, 2019 Share Posted February 3, 2019 On 23/01/2019 at 09:56, ~Slideways~ said: I've read conflicting information, is it acceptable to modify/shorten/weld half shafts? EDIT: Looking into it, I don't think welding is an option but shortening and resplining could work. what application? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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