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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs


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Bear in mind that is the rules for certification - so a reset spring requires cert- there's nothing allowing a reset spring in the wof modification threshold 

 

Also reset coils are not often very good- you remove travel but the spring rate remains the same, and often people get springs reset because an aftermarket spring doesnt go low enough

Leaf springs have the advantage of being able to add more leafs to up the spring rate

 

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5 hours ago, Testament said:

this exhaust noise thing brings up another question

while you said baffles etc should need tools to be removed but what about the case of a baffle to make the exhaust quiet for oldman reasons

basically similar to a lot of modern supercars/high performance cars that have some kind of varex type butterfly valve thing in the exhaust

the idea being with the valve open the exhaust is louder - but still passes noise requirements but with the valve closed the car is proper quiet for nice cruising/not upsetting everyone when you are just going to get a bottle of mlik from the servo?

 

 

I'm interested in this - suspect I'm the old man you speak of... Keen to have unrowdy whisper quiet sleeper spec for tootling into work carpark and have free-er flow when on the gas for my conversion (was thinking boost referenced).

Re OK if OEM, I assume the OEM bit is the chassis/body versus engine? I believe some HSVs had vacuum actuated exhaust valves and donor motor is LS so?... Recipient is Hilux so nothing fancy there exhaust-wise

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21 minutes ago, michael14 said:

Wouldn’t know how much to take off to get it low enough (only really want to drop 50mm or so) or how to tidy it up haha

Measure the distance between coils with the weight on them to get an idea of how many to lop off, then a 1/4 coil at a time until it's almost where you want, then fine tune. Then sort some shorter shocks to keep it all captive. 50mm would be about 1.5 - 2 coils on the front, probably 1 coil on the rear at a top-of-the-head guess

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2 hours ago, KP_wag said:

I'm interested in this - suspect I'm the old man you speak of... Keen to have unrowdy whisper quiet sleeper spec for tootling into work carpark and have free-er flow when on the gas for my conversion (was thinking boost referenced).

Re OK if OEM, I assume the OEM bit is the chassis/body versus engine? I believe some HSVs had vacuum actuated exhaust valves and donor motor is LS so?... Recipient is Hilux so nothing fancy there exhaust-wise

https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Exhaust_Noise_Emissions.pdf

2.1 has the requirements for what you are talking about

 

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10 hours ago, cletus said:

Thanks for that. So my reading of that is that you can have a switched 'bimodal' exhaust as long as it is not manually actuated and as long as it doesn't exceed the max decibel limits under either mode? 

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Good morning,

qurstion you probably get asked 100000 times a day,

what’s the budget one should allow for cost for coilovers and wheels on a Japanese vechile?

also for getting multiple wheel options is there a  further cost per wheel?

thank.

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10 hours ago, cletus said:

Yep that's how I read it. 

So if it passes in 'open' mode it should be ok

So reading this could i install some varex type mufflers in my chev sedan with the switch to change sound level in the boot that way it cant be changed while in motion. But is technically still inside the vehicle. Or would switch have to be outside vehicle?

Of course sound level fully open has to comply with db levels

sorry for going over this again i dont have my head fully around this.

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