Jump to content

For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs


si

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 8.9k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

22 hours ago, cletus said:

yep anything adjustable that wasn't originally, needs cert.

 

have not seen anyone cut down the cones, only seen people use adjustable ones. if the cone is solid, and you keep the "spring" captive, probably no reason you couldn't shorten it

Many thanks, I figure this would be the case.  Wasnt terribly fussed on using them, onto TM they go....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Seat mounting question

mounting some non original buckies onto stock rails. If I attach a bit of 25x25 box to the factory rails, then affix the captive nuts in the seat mounting point,

does that box section need to be the heavy wall variety?   I'm not sure that those press in plastic bungs you can buy will fit the thicker wall box.

alternatively, what wall thickness would that box need to be?

 

And at the front,  the two sets of mounting points are 43mm and 72mm  away from one another, as well as 25mm wider each side. Since I can't use the box section running across due to the front to back variation,

would a slab or 8mm steel plate with 17mm spacers between the plate and the seat (to make the seat Base parallel to the rails because 25mm Box at the back) be sufficient?  The studs sticking up from the rails are m8. And the seat has six m6 capscrews. Two at the back,  and two pairs at the front)

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On ‎25‎/‎11‎/‎2018 at 09:17, RUNAMUCK said:

Seat mounting question

mounting some non original buckies onto stock rails. If I attach a bit of 25x25 box to the factory rails, then affix the captive nuts in the seat mounting point,

does that box section need to be the heavy wall variety?   I'm not sure that those press in plastic bungs you can buy will fit the thicker wall box.

alternatively, what wall thickness would that box need to be?

 

And at the front,  the two sets of mounting points are 43mm and 72mm  away from one another, as well as 25mm wider each side. Since I can't use the box section running across due to the front to back variation,

would a slab or 8mm steel plate with 17mm spacers between the plate and the seat (to make the seat Base parallel to the rails because 25mm Box at the back) be sufficient?  The studs sticking up from the rails are m8. And the seat has six m6 capscrews. Two at the back,  and two pairs at the front)

 

 

probably need a pic to try and understand this better

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On ‎25‎/‎11‎/‎2018 at 17:20, BlownCorona said:

 

Can I have my hand brake cable running through the driveshaft hoop? As it sits it naturally goes through the hoop. 

I assume this is a no no, but before I go and modify other things to move the cable I figured I'd ask the question

 

no, cable should be outside the loop

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can. Page 14 in here has the requirements 

https://lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Braking_Systems.pdf

 

One of the requirements seems to be it has to be an automatic for some reason?

The only one ive seen that operates the cable are aftermarket units that look like a linear actuator , otherwise the oe ones I've ever seen have been in the caliper. 

That's not to say they don't exist, just I haven't seen one

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...