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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs


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1 hour ago, Bling said:

Are wheel offsets recorded for cert purposes? Preventing other offset rims being fitted at a later date. TIA

No they aren't recorded anywhere. However cars are pretty decently photographed during the cert inspection so if you change the wheels and have a whoopsie then it will pretty easy to figure out they are different.

If the wheels have the offset marked on the wheels via a casting or even a sticker, then you can be pretty confident that would have been captured in a picture by the certifier.

But if there was no evidence of the offset at cert time and you only changed the offset marginally and had the same looking wheels then it would be harder to tell.

Even though it's pretty unlikely thst subtly changed offset wheels would have that much of an impact on the safety of the car but substantially changed offset wheels would definitely be noticeable to look at when compared

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The only time I write down the offset is if it's close to the maximum amount. 

Which is heaps. 35% of rim width positive or negative. 

It's not very often that offset is an issue. And most cars that get certified wouldn't have a lot of room for changing the offset by a significant amount without introducing other issues like tyre rub or the wheel hitting the suspension or something  

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  • 2 weeks later...

Braked trailer question.

If the brakes don't work can you lock the reverse lock out in place (to disable the brakes) and pass a wof? Previous owner said Vtnz guy told him it would be ok but it sounds a bit purple monkey dishwasher.

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So I've lowered the rack in the Triumph to clear the bottom of the engine. To sort out the bump steer this will inevitably cause, I also need to lower the tie rod end. Normally, the tie rod end mounts on the top of the steering arm. I've drilled out the tapered hole to take a 5/8th" bolt so I can use spacers to get it to the right height. 

Everything is just mocked up with clamps and spacers while I work out where it needs to be. I just had these rod ends lying around and will probably be using different ones, but they will be the same bore/thread size.

This is where stuff would be if it had the factory tie rod ends on it. As you can see the tie rod and or rod end are too long. The rod end is 5/8" unf and the tie rod is 1/2" unf. The thread on the tie rod cannot be extended as the diameter reduces after the thread.

My initial idea is to shorten both where I have the red lines. And use a threaded joining thing, in blue, to join them. I think I would have the rod end always threaded all the way in, with thread lock maybe and do the adjusting at the tie rod end like a 'normal' car.

 

Does this look okay? Is there a better way to do it?

IMAG0862Draw.thumb.jpg.a077885434d7ca8f77bfe633085ce21e.jpg

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On 10/10/2018 at 20:07, Adoom said:

So I've lowered the rack in the Triumph to clear the bottom of the engine. To sort out the bump steer this will inevitably cause, I also need to lower the tie rod end. Normally, the tie rod end mounts on the top of the steering arm. I've drilled out the tapered hole to take a 5/8th" bolt so I can use spacers to get it to the right height. 

Everything is just mocked up with clamps and spacers while I work out where it needs to be. I just had these rod ends lying around and will probably be using different ones, but they will be the same bore/thread size.

This is where stuff would be if it had the factory tie rod ends on it. As you can see the tie rod and or rod end are too long. The rod end is 5/8" unf and the tie rod is 1/2" unf. The thread on the tie rod cannot be extended as the diameter reduces after the thread.

My initial idea is to shorten both where I have the red lines. And use a threaded joining thing, in blue, to join them. I think I would have the rod end always threaded all the way in, with thread lock maybe and do the adjusting at the tie rod end like a 'normal' car.

 

Does this look okay? Is there a better way to do it?

IMAG0862Draw.thumb.jpg.a077885434d7ca8f77bfe633085ce21e.jpg

Looks ok. The rod end will need a jam nut to lock it into the blue sleeve thing, make sure the threads go in 1.5x thread diameter,  make sure the rod end doesn't bind at full suspension travel,  including compressing the bump stop a bit, the rod end will need a large flat washer as a failsafe , and the bolt that holds it on should have a shank that is a good fit in the arm 

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11 minutes ago, rusty360 said:

Would anyone have the specs for seat belt mount doubler plates? Or do I need to buy the hobby car manual for that one section? And what about sprog seat teathers? Any legal requirements around these at wof time?

https://lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Seatbelts_& Seatbelt_Anchorages.pdf

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  • 2 weeks later...

So what's "acceptable" bump steer?

I made a contraption to measure it.IMAG0881.thumb.jpg.086225bd37a2c2edfb88d66f1ba59afd.jpgIMAG0882.thumb.jpg.8a78cd12c72f0239d372b028c6d8fd0f.jpg

Ignore the g-clamp, the bolt is too short.

Over 100mm of travel, full droop to full compression, I'm getting 0.67 degrees of toe change. As the suspension is raised, it toes out. 

If I run the ride height I'm thinking of running, the travel will be reduced to ~60mm and the toe change would be about 0.45 degrees.

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