Yowzer Posted July 28, 2018 Share Posted July 28, 2018 The units I was looking at awhile back had some keeper spring system incorporated into the bag, and were designed to be driven inflated too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted July 29, 2018 Share Posted July 29, 2018 Finnegan has some ones that seem legit on his truck. Will try see if I can find out what they were. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted July 29, 2018 Share Posted July 29, 2018 Pretty sure those were hydraulic - like a ram that moved the mount of the coilover from memory Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted July 29, 2018 Share Posted July 29, 2018 Yeah they were, my bad. Just googles it now. How would they go legality wise? They seem pretty legit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a.craw4d Posted July 29, 2018 Share Posted July 29, 2018 11 hours ago, Truenotch said: Does that mean you still get 50mm if extra droop travel when the suspension is aired out? i.e. if you did a jump the shocks will still droop down. Or will the bags keep them tucked up? No you'd get no extra droop. They are a pneumatic ram essentially, when aired out they cant extend and are just a spring perch. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted July 31, 2018 Share Posted July 31, 2018 On 27/07/2018 at 18:06, AllTorque said: https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/exhaust/exhaust-system see line 5 as long as it cannot enter the passenger compartment, you are fine The problem is the entire SWB 70 series landcruiser. Repeated testing with both factory rear exit and side exit exhaust on SWB 70 series landcruier at open road speeds recorded exhaust fume levels in all passenger seating positions sufficient to poison passengers with the side windows open or closed. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted July 31, 2018 Share Posted July 31, 2018 The only option is bonnet exit 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Vapour Posted July 31, 2018 Share Posted July 31, 2018 On 7/29/2018 at 22:53, a.craw4d said: No you'd get no extra droop. They are a pneumatic ram essentially, when aired out they cant extend and are just a spring perch. fortune did a little video about them at sema in 2015 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted August 1, 2018 Share Posted August 1, 2018 I've searched and can't find this being discussed. Can you tell me what the story is with making your own 'bumper bar' or 'bash bar' as some call it. I have a 1991 200sx (non abs and 20+ years old) with no internal front bumper bar (the metal behind plastic/fibreglass bumper). I want to either fit a factory one which might need cutting anyway, or make one out of bent tube to protect the intercooler etc. The below makes me think its a none issue as long as it isn't designed to impale people (I intend for it to follow the inside contour of the bumper). In fact it sounds like I don't actually need one? All I can find in LVVTA docs in this: Bumper bar (removal and change) the vehicle is not required to comply with a frontal impact occupant protection standard (see Frontal Impact note on page 1). Note: Bumper bar means either the structural part inside a plastic bumper or a complete metal bumper as used on older vehicles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted August 1, 2018 Share Posted August 1, 2018 Yep in your case you could do that no problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted August 1, 2018 Share Posted August 1, 2018 15 hours ago, cletus said: Yep in your case you could do that no problem Awesome thanks cert man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 Not oldschool related, but what are the rules about cutting / re-shaping the ribs under a bonnet? My neighbour is adding an M90 supercharger to his K24 powered Honda and it needs a bit of work to get the bonnet to close. It needs a notch in the centre rib from just above the round hole down to the bottom of the dented part (they've been experimenting with a hammer to re-shape it). Is there a rule regarding bonnet ribs? The hole is 130-140mm from the bonnet catch if it makes any difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiRge Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 Chop it 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 You are not allowed rust within 150mm of that bonnet catch, so removing structure in that zone will be a no no for WOF. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 Bonnet pins G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Transom Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 Interested in that question too as I have removed a bonnet rib further back nowhere near hinge or catch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 What are you thoughts on engine mounts like this? I've been told some have been failed but I found this LVVTA forum post saying there are ok. http://lvvta.proboards.com/thread/521/solid-engine-mounts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 9 hours ago, Truenotch said: Not oldschool related, but what are the rules about cutting / re-shaping the ribs under a bonnet? My neighbour is adding an M90 supercharger to his K24 powered Honda and it needs a bit of work to get the bonnet to close. It needs a notch in the centre rib from just above the round hole down to the bottom of the dented part (they've been experimenting with a hammer to re-shape it). Is there a rule regarding bonnet ribs? The hole is 130-140mm from the bonnet catch if it makes any difference. if it was me id cut it out, (or "reshape" it) and when he gets it certified for the s/c, get the bonnet mod included. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 6 hours ago, ~Slideways~ said: What are you thoughts on engine mounts like this? I've been told some have been failed but I found this LVVTA forum post saying there are ok. http://lvvta.proboards.com/thread/521/solid-engine-mounts Those are one of my pet hates. They are a cock up in my opinion. you have two solid parts -the engine mount bracket, and the crossmember- joined together with a solid thing - the bolt- with a compressible thing in the middle- the red part. So you cant tighten the bolt properly, the red bit allows a small amount of movement so the bolt can move in the holes, it vibrates just as much as a solid mount anyway cause the bolt transfers vibration..... No OEM manufacturer makes a mount for anything using the same principle as that. the ones with the hard plastic, I looked into the specs for some once, and the temp rating was an issue for use as an engine mount the same thing with an alloy spacer or steel would be fine. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiRge Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 Can never go wrong with hardrace http://www.hardrace.com/Product_detail.asp?id=691 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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