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turn up at his shop with beers and pizza late on a friday ? never hurts to be the guy who didnt just ask questions and not come back , once he knows you are not just a time waster but you bring beer too ;) things might get easier , these guys often get more questions/phonecalls than they can handle and often no business from those calls/questions , so setting yourself apart from 'those guys' who waste his time will usually help your cause

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I get what you mean. I have already had a cert through him for my Mitsubishi Challenger so he knows me and I paid straight away, didn’t screw him around or anything, so I thought he would know I’m not a time waster. 

You might be on to something with the beer idea though. Always good for some brownie points haha

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He must have heard us talking, haha, I have a meeting with him set up for tomorrow morning. Did offer to bring beer in an email I sent so that may have been the clincher. 

@cletus I am most of the way through filling out "Form 4A- Concept Approval Application", is this the best thing to take to the meeting with me, or is a list of parts/brands/processes/materials I intend to use better? Or both?

Also a seperate question/sort of related, in the application, it has a section for steering, which is not something I had overly considered, as it isn't something I would be dealing with just yet. Is it possible to retain the factory steering column from the Datsun 720, and just have the input shaft spline/length machined to suit the GQ Safari steering box? Or is there a more common way of doing this? It might even be the same spline for all I know but as I say not something I have thought of much until now, and I won't likely have the chance to check between now and tomorrow morning.
I will be buying the CCM (on PDF) later today but I won't likely have time to fully read and understand that section by tomorrow either. 

Any help is greatly appreciated. :-)

   

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  • 2 weeks later...

We are wanting to fit a coil over conversion kit to my farthers Morris minor, but we should probably check how legal it is first. I assume the answer is take it to the certifier and ask, but it could be simple hell no and no need to waste his or our time.

Has anyone used one of the Spax front coil over conversion kits (http://www.morrisminorspares.com/front-suspension-c47/front-suspension-all-models-c71/coil-over-damper-conversion-kit-front-spax-p830570) or similar and know if they are certifiable in NZ? 

Bottom of the coil over mounts to the lower arm like below:

5b4e7cf3b92ce_Frontarmconnection2.png.548a46c59affc95541c60e621ba23a7d.png

Top of the coil over mounts to a plate which is bolted to the existing "shock" like so:

 5b4e7ded39c01_Topshock.png.3c6e6695fdf8cd5a27264e754347491f.png

Thanks in advance for any advice

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Hey ya

Im half way through a 49 Hudson custom project.

Coming up to the electrics.
Have an American Autowire Highway 22 kit for the bulk of the wiring.

Looking at upgrading the headlights from the old sealed beam 7" jobbies to say LED if possible.
Keeping the original buckets and outer chrome trim ring but replacing everything else (lens/reflector/bulb/housing). Getting lens and reflector suited to LEDs.

Im looking at using:
www.vintagecarleds.com/shop/7-inch/vc4000-ultimate-kit/
or
www.vintagecarleds.com/shop/7-inch/vc3500-classic-kit/

Look old but are made for LED. FAQ say they are E-Code etc.

I know there are issues around HID conversions and non white or amber bulbs but im unsure if there are any about LED.

Thought I better check in before I go much further.

Is there a LVVTA fact sheet pdf?

Anyone know of any cert issues etc?

Cheers
Alex

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had a look on the cert website and I think I should be ok, I can bring my exhaust out the side of my cruiser behind the drivers door? this is just a rough position for reference. theres no opening windows behind the drivers door etc. also would like to weld the exhaust hangers to the body mounts that come off the chassis, I can't see that being a problem? thanks  

rxsbsvju.rs4.jpg

5r3xma2e.g4g.jpg

 

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42 minutes ago, MaxPower said:

had a look on the cert website and I think I should be ok, I can bring my exhaust out the side of my cruiser behind the drivers door? this is just a rough position for reference. theres no opening windows behind the drivers door etc. also would like to weld the exhaust hangers to the body mounts that come off the chassis, I can't see that being a problem? thanks  

Nope.

Need to be like half a foot or something from an opening/ behind rear passenger seats.

 

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Exhaust Systems
2.3(9) An exhaust system fitted to a low volume vehicle must:
 (a) be of a good design using materials suitable for the purpose; and
 (b) terminate in a position where the outer end of the exhaust pipe is not directly underneath or in front of the passenger compartment; and
 (c) in the case of an external exhaust system which extends beyond the outer longitudinal extremity of the vehicle or the outer sidewall of the tyres:
 (i) have a radius of no less than 3 mm on any sections facing toward the front of the vehicle; and
 (ii) have any sections of exposed exhaust contactable from the front of the vehicle or adjacent to points of occupant entry and exit adequately heat-shielded;
 and
 (d) be in good condition and free of leaks; and
 (e) be securely attached to the vehicle, using a mounting system that enables all necessary engine movement without stressing the exhaust system; and
 (f) along with the body of a low volume vehicle in the areas adjacent to the vehicle’s exhaust system, be sufficiently sealed so as to prevent the entry of any exhaust gases into the passenger compartment, and
 (g) be designed, constructed, and fitted in such a way that the exhaust system, or components within the exhaust system, cannot be removed, altered, or interfered with, without the use of hand tools.
 

 

I think you will be fine.

 

as a side note that whole 12 inches past the last opening window thing and the variations I hear on it, are old wives tales, or its a rule in Australia or something, I looked into it years ago and couldn't find any requirement like that in NZ. 

it was in 2016 that they added "in front of" to line (b), before that you could certify a hot rod with this style of exhaust if you could get it quiet enough

Image result for limefire headers

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23 hours ago, a.craw4d said:

@cletus Have you ever seen something like this?

https://www.stanceparts.com/air-cup-lift-system/

image.jpeg.61fb1012a4505f805eda7a8c07595db5.jpeg

Do you think it would be able to be certified here?

possibly. I think someone got some approved for use thru LVVTA,

IMO a bit pointless though if you wanted to set it up legally, as far as I know they are only designed to raise the suspension to clear bumps or driveways etc- they are not designed to be driven on inflated, so would have limited travel

ie if the coilover spring is set up so it has zero preload with the cup deflated (so the spring is still captive at normal ride height)

then that only gives you as much lift, as the suspension has droop travel (ie till the shocks top out- this is usually 30-50mm for most common bolt in coil overs like BC etc)

and you wouldn't be able to drive it like that apart from slow speed stuff and even then you could get stuck when it picks a wheel up off the ground going in a driveway

and  would still need the same control system as a normal bag setup ie compressor, tank, 8x valves etc

and they are not cheap

I think bags would be better- at least then you could drop it on to the bumpstops when parked instead of normal ride height

could argue that a car may handle better with springs rather than bags but I think if someone was more concerned with handling then they wouldn't be fitting stuff like this to a car anyway

 

also I saw some on an import 300c last week and the front ones appeared to be knackered due to road shit getting up in the cup- they didn't work very well

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Thanks @cletus

Yeah they aren't for driving on while inflated as you'd have little to no droop.

They have 50mm of lift. Basically have adjustable suspension for max low and doing the suspension job.  These can lift the car temporary so you can get into your driveway/ supermarket carpark etc.

They are very pricey but super simple design, could easily machine up my own.

Just makes a super low car a little bit more practical.

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