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But yeah I too have certed a few things. And had a fair bit of experience with other people's cars as well.

I have never had a bad experience.  You just need to be open minded that the person you are dealing with is the final piece of the puzzle you have been cobling together.  Sometimes they might fail you on something that you don't understand or disagree with,  and the key is to ask for clarification if you don't understand what the certifier actually wants, instead of guessing, going away, getting it wrong,  and wasting everyone's time.

 

Also keep in mind the certifier is wanting something that will have a warrant once the process is done.  So try have it as much up to wof spec as you can. Not show up with your skid tires on and only one door handle because the other one broke and you haven't got round to fixing it etc.

 

Clearly its impossible to give you much help off a description.  But its most likely the small details that get you.  Stuff like heat shields near brake lines where they are close to exhausts,  bolts that have lock or nyloc nuts etc, battery or fuel lines secured every 300mm. Engine light that works or equivalent. Stuff like that. 

 

My final piece of advice is don't book it in unless you know you are ready and have a bit of back up cash to purchase things incase you overlooked something.  Its not cheap and I have dealt with a few people in the past who thought they had there shit sorted,  failed and then couldn't afford to pay to rectify the issues brought up at tge cert.  However that was through a work shop. So if you are doing the work your self its always a bit easier on the pocket lol.

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On 6/19/2018 at 13:33, Vertigo said:

The engine that will be certed will be a 16v 4AGZE with supercharger swapped for turbo. Im guessing so long as things are tidy and leak free, it should pass fine.

I took the Crown Coupe through Cert with a leaky rear main seal. I did ask the question and basically the response was "As long as its not hosing out and putting oil on suspension bushes, brakes, etc it will be fine." leaking Fuel would be another story. Gave the underside of the car a steam clean and the whole car clean just to be sure. From my experience if you present the car well, show good workmanship, and make the certifier's job as easy as possible then you should be fine.  

  

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On ‎6‎/‎19‎/‎2018 at 13:33, Vertigo said:

Hi guys. Just after some general chat around the cert process, how hard it is, your experiences, etc.

My MR2 has aftermarket seats, wheels, suspension (adjustable), engine (20v currently, soon to be 16v turbo for the cert), and brakes (slightly bigger from another Toyota).

The seats are Bride Lomax, with rails to suit from NZKW. Im hoping these will pass inspection. Advice here would be nice!   are these fixed back or reclining?

The engine that will be certed will be a 16v 4AGZE with supercharger swapped for turbo. Im guessing so long as things are tidy and leak free, it should pass fine. Is bracing for the turbo a requirement? not really, as long as it is secure I have an oil filter relocation, will this be focused on? again not really, make sure it is secure  The fuel system is mostly stock, with an aftermarket FPR as the only modification, though I do intend to upgrade the fuel pump too at some point.

The suspension is adjustable, but a decent brand (Yellowspeed I think). Nothing really special about it, just a tiny sliver of negative camber, and fairly stiff. Been told these will probably not be a problem probably fine, make sure your camber is no more than half a degree over manufacturers spec, or no more than 1.5 degrees, whatever is greater

Wheels, so long as they arent bigger diameter, you can go as wide as you want, it seems, which is good because mine are 20mm wider than factory. They are hidden under arch extensions. make sure your tyres are wide enough for the rims- have a look at the tyre size info sheet on lvvta.org.nz. also make sure the wheel nuts thread on 6.5 turns

Obviously Im intending to visit the certifier soon to have an initial once over for advice from them, but was curious what you all thought as well.

 

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Hey there, i've had a bit of a search through the lvvta website and searched on this forum but havent found the answers im looking for,
what i want to know, will a low backrest and no head rest seat go through cert? same as the links provided below, nzkw classic recliner and racetech seat. as i am looking at replacing unknown brand large bucket seats and not looking for a full on race looking seat.
racetech seat
NZKW seat

Next question is, what requirements or standards do seatbelts need to be built too? my rear belts have paint on them and drivers belt has light fraying so i am looking at replacing the lot with a set from Pac performance, there's no details on their site about what standards the belts are made too and i have not received a reply by email form them yet, link to belts below
Seatbelts

any info is much appreciated. cheers

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On 22/06/2018 at 20:15, Seedy Al said:

But yeah I too have certed a few things. And had a fair bit of experience with other people's cars as well.

I have never had a bad experience.  You just need to be open minded that the person you are dealing with is the final piece of the puzzle you have been cobling together.  Sometimes they might fail you on something that you don't understand or disagree with,  and the key is to ask for clarification if you don't understand what the certifier actually wants, instead of guessing, going away, getting it wrong,  and wasting everyone's time.

 

Also keep in mind the certifier is wanting something that will have a warrant once the process is done.  So try have it as much up to wof spec as you can. Not show up with your skid tires on and only one door handle because the other one broke and you haven't got round to fixing it etc.

 

Clearly its impossible to give you much help off a description.  But its most likely the small details that get you.  Stuff like heat shields near brake lines where they are close to exhausts,  bolts that have lock or nyloc nuts etc, battery or fuel lines secured every 300mm. Engine light that works or equivalent. Stuff like that. 

 

My final piece of advice is don't book it in unless you know you are ready and have a bit of back up cash to purchase things incase you overlooked something.  Its not cheap and I have dealt with a few people in the past who thought they had there shit sorted,  failed and then couldn't afford to pay to rectify the issues brought up at tge cert.  However that was through a work shop. So if you are doing the work your self its always a bit easier on the pocket lol.

One final note to add, clean the car first! 

Anyone who has to work on cars absolutely hates it when the inside both smells and looks like an ash tray full of vomit. I don't do certs, but there's often an extra half to an hour labour added to any car that is presented as a neglected piece of shit that I have to deal with. 

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1 hour ago, craig_b said:

Hey there, i've had a bit of a search through the lvvta website and searched on this forum but havent found the answers im looking for,
what i want to know, will a low backrest and no head rest seat go through cert? same as the links provided below, nzkw classic recliner and racetech seat. as i am looking at replacing unknown brand large bucket seats and not looking for a full on race looking seat.
racetech seat
NZKW seat

Next question is, what requirements or standards do seatbelts need to be built too? my rear belts have paint on them and drivers belt has light fraying so i am looking at replacing the lot with a set from Pac performance, there's no details on their site about what standards the belts are made too and i have not received a reply by email form them yet, link to belts below
Seatbelts

any info is much appreciated. cheers

Re seats.

Only requirements for head rests are post 2003 frontal impact. 

Otherwise they can be removed. 

By that standard I would say low back seats would be more than fine come cert time. 

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Seat belts look like they are probably fine, they usually have a tag on them stating what standard they are built to, they say they have Australian standards on them 

I don't think I've seen aftermarket belts that don't have standards on

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Actually you can fail if its throwing grease anywhere near the brakes. 

Granted you have mentioned you will clean up any grease etc but yeah.  Would be better to be fixed than not come that time. 

 

Although in reference to your car and its drum brakes all round you will probably be ok.

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4 hours ago, ajg193 said:

if you try to reregister a car with a split cv boot I can guarantee they'll go super strict on everything else and treat you like a dirtbag though

True I guess. Oh well, best order a boot and learn how to split Mini axles then.

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I have always been told to get in contact with your certifier before/during every step of a major project, what do I do if the only certifier near me isn't interested in discussing my new/not so new project? Essentially I am looking at putting my Datsun 720 body onto a GQ Safari chassis, which will end up being scratchbuilt, I got that much out of the LVVTA.

Problem is I sort of want to know where to start and how to proceed in terms of keeping them in the loop, and being in Whangarei there is only one certifier who can certify that level of mods? I have been trying for months to get a hold of him, but he is never in his shop when I stop by (several times), when I ring him he is always busy, and he won't tee up a time to talk for 5 minutes about what he needs from me to essentially make my/his life easier. 

What is the recommendations of the OS community in regards to what to do? I could go with a certifier in Auckland but that means trailering it to him at various points in the build process (2-2.5 hours each way).

I'm sure if I keep trying I will eventually get a hold of my local certifier, but if it is this difficult at the beginning I can imagine it may become a nightmare down the road.  

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