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Getting my VL sorted so I can put it up for sale, the trip meter & odometer have packed up (surprise surprise). Is this going to be an issue come wof time? It's petrol so I'm not cheating the government out of any RUC's so I can't see any reason it'd be an issue? 

Edit: the speedometer and all other gauges still work.

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53 minutes ago, AllTorque said:

Odometer doesn’t have to work for wof. But buyers might be wary of how many kms it has actually done. Probably no a big issue for an old car tho. 

Speedo must work for wof. 

What about diesel vehicles?

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On 5/17/2018 at 22:39, Seedy Al said:

Bet it was a shitron mx or some sort of crap. 

Was a 80s/90s G Wagen. One of the ones I was looking at basically went for the price of a 348 so fuck that. I thought they might be less than $10k like they were a few years ago.

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hi guys im not sure if this is the right place to post this.

I plan to build my own chassis for my wee Austin 7 and fitting vh41 v8 and auto box up front and rear sub frame from donor car in the rear.At work we have heaps of 75x40x3mm rhs that doesn't get used will this be ok? or will i need to go bigger like 75x50?

My main question is that im thinking at putting the  radiator where the back seat is .Would this be ok ? would it need a bulkhead between front seats and radiator?

Thanks Wayne.

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there isn't actually a specific rule that mentions radiator placement. But I would say you would need something between you and the radiator- a split hose with 100+degree water would be rather uncomfortable inside the cabin.

75x50 is the minimum size for a chassis rail. I suggest if you are building a car that is going on the road, go on lvvta.org.nz and at the very least, buy the chapters of the car construction manual, that apply to what you are building.

I think if you buy the whole thing as a pdf its $150 which will pay for itself pretty quickly by not having to do things twice

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Finally got my VL churbo back together and I've encountered a problem I haven't faced before. I need to mix some coolant up but we have chlorine in our water now, what do you fellas who've had chlorinated water for awhile do? Am I best to just buy some distilled water from Repco etc?

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On 5/24/2018 at 18:15, Carsnz123 said:

Sooooo How much bodywork is required for a car to go on the road? Would be a good lerl to roll round in this as is. Maybe a little drafty.

kpqWPkG.jpg 

I'm back on this idea again. 

What happened about this @cletus

Info-2012%20New%20Scratch-built_Modified

 

can I put an open speedster body using the original scuttle and bonnet and not have to worry about cert? Mechanicals are original. 

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Im considering buying a deregistered rare italian vehicle from the 1960s. It has rust, but not so bad in the scheme of things.

Im not scared of the rust but i am scared of getting it reregistered/certified.

Other than the ownership malarkey (which may also be a bit of a thing - has plates and old stickers but no papers and carjam doesnt know about it), whats the story with the repair certification that it will surely require? Im not interested if i have to pay a guy to do the rust work, but happy to have someone review my work.

Who is a good repair certifier to chat with in Auckland, west preferably.

Basically this this a good idea or have i gone quite mad?

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