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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs


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Cert guy here is adamant it would need cert, even without looking at the car. Waiting for a reply on the LVVTA forum.

The problem is that the cert guy here is busy so you have to book at least a week in advance. If it takes me too long to get the cert done (+7 days or whatever for the plate) if it needs it then I won't have a chance to get the WoF recheck done before the 28 days. That coupled with the fact that it is booked in for first thing Monday morning doesn't help the situation with regards to going to VTNZ first.

 

TBH getting a cert is tempting in that I won't ever need to deal with anyone's (WoF, police, insurance*) bullshit in the future

 

*Insurance has it on record that I put EFI on the car and they had no issue with it but cert man reckons that come the time that the car gets into a crash they would turn into cunts

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14 hours ago, ajg193 said:

Cert guy here is adamant it would need cert, even without looking at the car. Waiting for a reply on the LVVTA forum.

The problem is that the cert guy here is busy so you have to book at least a week in advance. If it takes me too long to get the cert done (+7 days or whatever for the plate) if it needs it then I won't have a chance to get the WoF recheck done before the 28 days. That coupled with the fact that it is booked in for first thing Monday morning doesn't help the situation with regards to going to VTNZ first.

 

TBH getting a cert is tempting in that I won't ever need to deal with anyone's (WoF, police, insurance*) bullshit in the future

 

*Insurance has it on record that I put EFI on the car and they had no issue with it but cert man reckons that come the time that the car gets into a crash they would turn into cunts

I agree with this. 

Ok cool you put EFI on your car. 

You crash it. And they then know it's been modified and will go looking for.the cert. Just cause they said it's ok to do it, dose not mean they will not decline a claim in the future 

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Welding was one. Is it a "under no circumstances can anything be welded", or can it be done but it has to be done "this way" and tested "this way"?

Basically, I want to lower the steering rack in the triumph.

The material I have read so far (in BOOKS, not forums) makes it look doable without worsening bump steer.

Basically I need to lower the outer tierod end the same amount as the rack. And measure the bump steer before and after making changes. The book has plans for a very simple measuring device.

The problem is the tierod end and how to make it lower.

Some people replace the tierod with a rod end bearing and use spacers to change the height. But is this acceptable on a road car?

Another possible option is to flip the tierod end over and mount it under the steering arm(std location is on top of the steering arm). But then the taper is wrong...

So is there an acceptable way to make the taper go the other way? Machine a bigger reversed taper and use a sleeve? Fill the taper with weld and machine a new taper(probably not)? Make custom steering arms? They are made or forged steel, so is there any acceptable alternative material?

I checked to see if new arms were available and maybe I could enquire about the availability of blanks. But it appears that rimmers and chris wittor have only 2nd hand arms. 

 

I've just seen a photo of a manual and power steering steering arm next to each other and the power steering arm looks like it mounts the tirerod lower. I'll have to see if I can get some to see...

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On 4/9/2018 at 09:40, ajg193 said:

Failed WoF today needing a cert for the EFI.

 

Booked in for next monday. Cert guy wasn't very helpful in answering questions regarding things.

 

I'm using factory mounting locations for the fuel hoses on the car, but the mounting points are more than 300 mm apart. I guess I will need to go out and get a whole load of P clamps and put shit loads of holes through my car all over the place to bring them to 300 mm spacing?

 

Also the fuel lines go through the driveshaft tunnel (factory location and there is nowhere else to put the fuel hoses) and there is no driveshaft safety hoop as the increase in power is only like 1%. Is this acceptable or do I need to do heaps of stupid drastic things?

 

If I have to put too many holes in the car I would probably rather just rip the EFI off and go back to carb. Especially at the $565 cost of a cert...

 

I've moved the electrical wires for the pump up further into the tunnel, they are connected to the brake pipe mounts, so as not to be right next to the fuel hoses wherever possible.

First image shows fuel hoses in driveshaft tunnel. (Handbrake cable, electrical wires, brake pipe, fuel hoses from left to right)

IMG_0388.thumb.JPG.db476a9dc20a7b51e1999eb030767bb5.JPG

Second picture shows fuel pump setup

IMG_0385.thumb.JPG.ea5123fb77df24766f929ff6052d69bb.JPG

 

Third image shows electrical feed cables running through tunnel along brake pipes, fuel hoses at bottom of image along chassis rail

IMG_0391.thumb.JPG.65135867693fdc190cf4802a44d3139b.JPG

 

 

So basically:

1. Is my wiring location alright?

2. Will I have to add heaps of clips to make factory fuel hose supported at 300 mm (I did also add the flexible hose, which I guess definitely needs 300 mm spacing)?

3. Fuel hoses run near driveshaft, will I need to put in a hoop?


EDIT:
"Note that where a production vehicle is fitted with its original fuel tank or other fuel system components in their original locations, the requirements in this chapter do not apply"

Does that mean I only need to put P clamps on the added flexible hose and call it a day?

If this is in a kp starlet?

if so i believe they came factory EFI in japan so really you putting in EFI doesn't mean shit to the car.

And the power increase would be less than putting a cam in or sidedrafts on.

me personally wouldn't even bother with vtnz or any other testing stations just take the car into a local garage who preferably works on older stuff who will most likely appreciate the car for putting EFI on and you should get a wof without to much hassle.    

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59 minutes ago, piazzanoob said:

If this is in a kp starlet?

if so i believe they came factory EFI in japan so really you putting in EFI doesn't mean shit to the car.

And the power increase would be less than putting a cam in or sidedrafts on.

me personally wouldn't even bother with vtnz or any other testing stations just take the car into a local garage who preferably works on older stuff who will most likely appreciate the car for putting EFI on and you should get a wof without to much hassle.    

VTNZ guys were going on about how great the EFI is on it and trying to find a loophole. They passed it last time and just said "awesome, well done"

 

Looks like I'm not going to get any concrete answers from the LVVTA before tomorrow morning so I'll just take it in for the cert. LVVTA Operating Requirements Schedule says that they check that the cert process isn't being done where it isn't legally required as a part of the plate manufacturing process. So if that ends up being the case they would just send the documents back to the certifier and I assume refund the cost of the cert process.

 

I'll be taking the JDM and NZDM brochures with as reference data for the power figures and whatnot. I probably should have taken the JDM brochure with to the WoF inspection as the guys didn't seem to realize that any RWD Starlets ever came with EFI.

 

Won't be taking it to VTNZ again once I get the WoF. I'll just take it to the dodgiest cheapest chinesest WoF shops in an attempt to slowly recover the costs of the cert process.

 

One thing that is shit these days is that people with old cars are subsidizing the WoF costs for people with new cars. They should really have a different price for cars that need six monthly inspections. WoF used to be $37 at VTNZ when I first got the Starlet. The only thing that has changed since then is the price.

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13 minutes ago, Bling said:

Still cheaper to go elsewhere for a WOF, if you're confident that EFI doesn't need a cert. Just have all the paperwork handy if they question it. Should know better than to support VTNZ lol.

They've always been fair in the past. Plus it is good to see the brake test results as they happen, as opposed to with a standard WoF where the guy just scribbles 86% in a box no matter what.

 

I'm not confident that EFI doesn't need a cert (and noone in a position to actually provide documentation stating explicitly that it does not need a cert has provided said documentation), hence why I am taking it for the cert - cert guy here says it needs a cert so that's what counts for now. If LVVTA overturns that decision than so be it. I just want to get the WoF in as above board a manner as possible.

 

If I were to go to a random WoF shop now and get a WoF without a cert and then ended up getting into a crash then I am sure as shit that someone would look into the WoF results system and find that it failed a WoF, with them saying it needed a cert and that I just went to a different WoF place. That would open a whole can of worms that I really don't want to deal with.

 

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7 hours ago, Mof said:

@ajg193 Did he have a limp?

Don't recall a limp. One of the inspectors was the old guy with big white hair. He's been there for years. Phil wasn't the inspector, he always goes on about his orange bugeye that he once had and he put a 4K in it and it went super hard.

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Yeah man, just threw some adjusties on the car and some turbos (wheels and induction type). May as well get my value out of it.

 

Guy said he will call me in 3 to 4 hours with the bad news about it failing.

The (friendly) Barry wouldn't let me out the door, I was halfway out and then he started spurting about how new WoF rules are shit and cars should be inspected every six months and how most people don't check their oil daily.

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