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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs


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What size and thickness does an underfloor doubler plate with captive nut need to be under a bucket seat mount on a floor pan?  I've just discovered that although the hole is there,because it was a bench seat model there's no factory doubler plate (or captive nut) present where the inner seat rails will reside. 

Non stressed seat.

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Do you need a cert if you replace windows with steel? For example a station wagon if you take the windows out of the rear doors ,weld a full plate over (but still leave the door handles and locks in) and take out the rear side glass out and did the same. So it’s kinda like a panel van

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Failed WoF today needing a cert for the EFI.

 

Booked in for next monday. Cert guy wasn't very helpful in answering questions regarding things.

 

I'm using factory mounting locations for the fuel hoses on the car, but the mounting points are more than 300 mm apart. I guess I will need to go out and get a whole load of P clamps and put shit loads of holes through my car all over the place to bring them to 300 mm spacing?

 

Also the fuel lines go through the driveshaft tunnel (factory location and there is nowhere else to put the fuel hoses) and there is no driveshaft safety hoop as the increase in power is only like 1%. Is this acceptable or do I need to do heaps of stupid drastic things?

 

If I have to put too many holes in the car I would probably rather just rip the EFI off and go back to carb. Especially at the $565 cost of a cert...

 

I've moved the electrical wires for the pump up further into the tunnel, they are connected to the brake pipe mounts, so as not to be right next to the fuel hoses wherever possible.

First image shows fuel hoses in driveshaft tunnel. (Handbrake cable, electrical wires, brake pipe, fuel hoses from left to right)

IMG_0388.thumb.JPG.db476a9dc20a7b51e1999eb030767bb5.JPG

Second picture shows fuel pump setup

IMG_0385.thumb.JPG.ea5123fb77df24766f929ff6052d69bb.JPG

 

Third image shows electrical feed cables running through tunnel along brake pipes, fuel hoses at bottom of image along chassis rail

IMG_0391.thumb.JPG.65135867693fdc190cf4802a44d3139b.JPG

 

 

So basically:

1. Is my wiring location alright?

2. Will I have to add heaps of clips to make factory fuel hose supported at 300 mm (I did also add the flexible hose, which I guess definitely needs 300 mm spacing)?

3. Fuel hoses run near driveshaft, will I need to put in a hoop?


EDIT:
"Note that where a production vehicle is fitted with its original fuel tank or other fuel system components in their original locations, the requirements in this chapter do not apply"

Does that mean I only need to put P clamps on the added flexible hose and call it a day?

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Also the ECU has no way of knowing if the fuel tank is empty.  The fuel systems pdf says that the fuel pump cannot run if the tank is empty. Will this be a problem for me?

https://www.nzhra.org.nz/Merchandise Page Files/J - Chapter 10 - Fuel Systems.pdf

 

 

And with the cert plate, can I just request that it is put under the spare wheel or do I need to clutter my engine bay with so much shit that they have no choice to put it somewhere else in the car?

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I'm probably no help cos it's a cert from the bad old days, but my fuel pump and efi power has a manual switch

Notice tank is dry and turn it off? Haha

the engine not running situation is handled by the oil lamp circuit. No pressure and the pump doesn't work, but is set up in a way that pump turns on when turning the engine on. 

Well that's the idea, mine been bypassed

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They reckon I could put quad carbs on without a cert.

When they dropped the car back on the ground after the underbody check the guy asked the other guy "did you even put that down?" *sigh... high life*

 

Christchurch cert guy reckoned wiring didn't have to go through the inside of the car, just use common sense so it isn't right next to the fuel hoses incase it gets crimped in a crash. I think it is currently in a position where it is reasonably safe. Not sure about the legalities of just cable tying it to existing clamp points around the car, but that's the way Toyota routed their wires for various things.


Do cert rechecks cost, even if it is something as simple as just putting in a couple of little clips in certain places?

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