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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs


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14 minutes ago, antz said:

Hey man, the VIRM doesnt have it as an exclusion: https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/brakes/service-brake-and-parking-brake (see table 8-1-1) which means it'll have to be certed.

Looking at LVV standards: https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Braking_Systems.pdf , section 2.2 verse 23/24:
A low volume vehicle may be fitted with one or more proportioning valves which are purposely designed for automotive applications.
A proportioning valve which is adjustable from inside a vehicle must have the facility to be temporarily disabled or locked into a position of normal operation to prevent unintended changes in front to rear brake balance occurring whilst the vehicle is being operated on public roads.

Based on this it looks like it can be done if certed. I think? Hopefully someone else will be able to confirm.

 

Yeah this was basically what I had gathered. Needing certification doesnt phase me, just keen to get a bit more clarification before biting the bullet only to find out it can't be legal. 

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1 hour ago, 187inc said:

Hey guys is it legal to use an adjustable bias pedal box in a road car? Not one with an "on the fly" adjuster, just one which can be adjusted until a good balance is reached and forgotten? 

Edit- found in LVVTA 35-00(02)(Braking systems) - still unsure. 

"An adjustable balance-bar assembly which actuates twin master cylinders 
must:
(a) be capable of being securely locked into position to prevent 
unintended changes in front-to-rear brake balance; and
(b) in the case of balance bar rods within a custom-built balance-bar 
assembly, be manufactured from a material of:
(i) appropriate strength; and
(ii) suitable diameter;"

For a bias bar (twin master) you just need to conform to the above rule. 

 

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6 hours ago, cletus said:

And don't buy a cheap shit one. There's a lot of rubbish available 

Tilton, wilwood, ap racing etc are usually good.

 

What should I look out for? Decent cylinders or do you mean the actual structural integrity of the thing? (was looking at Burtonpower, as they are pretty cheap and a couple of others things I've seen them make look pretty good (and you can opt to upgrade the cylinders to girling). Most of the available options would be from overseas so I can only gauge quality from mostly rubbish photos.

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Is it for an escort?

Have had many of those be a problem.  Pedal construction, and the strength of the box itself are the main issues. Often the cheap ones are made of quite light weight steel that flexes, which you cant really see until its bolted in the car and bled and you can get some force on the pedal

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1 hour ago, cletus said:

Is it for an escort?

Have had many of those be a problem.  Pedal construction, and the strength of the box itself are the main issues. Often the cheap ones are made of quite light weight steel that flexes, which you cant really see until its bolted in the car and bled and you can get some force on the pedal

Yeah Escort. Do you know which brand ones have been weak? Ideally would like one designed to bolt straight into escort and for the most part they look quite similar. I might email BP and ask what thickness they make theirs out of. 

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They are usually bought from UK websites with no brand name on them. I suspect they are probably all from China and just on sold as the brand that retails them online. 

In my humble opinion, unless you really need an adjustable bias pedal box, I wouldnt bother.

 

 if you are looking at them just because they are not badly priced and an easy bolt in, they are more than likely going to be more of a headache than its worth- I've certed a couple where the pedal has had to be remade and the box reinforced or remade. By the time that is done plus the cost of the part in the first place,  a tilton/wilwood /ap one might be cheaper

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The Rover SD1s have a drain hole in the front foot wells (used when painting the car in the factory) and its plugged with a welded in "paint tin lid" of steel. These are notorious for rusting out and sure enough one of mine in the Vitesse is rusted and hanging on by a thread. Is this grounds for a WOF failure? Its a non-structural part.

This isnt my car but the plugged hole can be seen in this photo, on the right above the hoist arm. Picture that with rust holes in it.

attachment.php?attachmentid=256317&stc=1

I have a replacement and will get it welded in, but not before the WOF check this week.

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Check figure 3-1-2 here: https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/vehicle-structure/structure-incl2.-frontal-impact

Verse a: "deformation from the original shape that has affected the vehicle’s structural integrity" will be what some might think applies to you.

This is down to the inspector. Some might understand that it's clearly nothing to do with the structural integrity and will not worry, some will have a baby over it. To avoid it - I would absolutely cut that piece out, rust kill it, chuck some epoxy based primer on it to stop further spread of rust and bung it up with a rubber/plastic plug like other cars have from factory. This will be totally down to an inspector. There are so many grey areas in VIRM and this is one of many, so by addressing this before the inspection you'd reduce the risk of them failing it.

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Question: Do you have to have window washers for a cert.

I know if they are fitted to a car they have to work for a WOF. Which would lead me to believe that if a car didn’t have any to start with then it wouldn’t need them for a WOF/cert.

BUT what if a car came from factory with window washers but you removed all trace of it for the cert. Would that work?

A friend wants to finish his 808 Wagon and one of the sticking points is he has the washer bottle and pump but can’t find the squirty bits anywhere. So if he just removed the washer bottle would he still be able to get it certed?

Im sure we have talked about this before but just want to double check.

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