grant76 Posted November 17, 2017 Share Posted November 17, 2017 Under car surge tanks ok?? Can't find a definitive yes/no in the stuff I've searched so far Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.p.n.s Posted November 17, 2017 Share Posted November 17, 2017 how about the rear caliper mount being held on with 3 out of the 4 bolts that bolt the axle on the diff housing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted November 17, 2017 Share Posted November 17, 2017 I've used 8mm plate picking up 3 out of 4 bolts with a couple of spacers tig-welded on to get the caliper centered on this disc. Not certed yet, but I expect it will be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted November 17, 2017 Share Posted November 17, 2017 1 hour ago, d.p.n.s said: how about the rear caliper mount being held on with 3 out of the 4 bolts that bolt the axle on the diff housing? Probably ok if they are 8mm or bigger bolts. As for a minimum thickness, there isn't a set minimum. The design of the bracket and what it is made of would dictate how thick it should be If it is just a straight bracket with no offset in it and it is mild steel, I'd suggest 6mm as a minimum for a rear caliper mount Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted November 17, 2017 Share Posted November 17, 2017 3 hours ago, grant76 said: Under car surge tanks ok?? Can't find a definitive yes/no in the stuff I've searched so far Yes its easier from a rules perspective to mount it under the car. Has to meet all the fuel tank requirements of the CCM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.p.n.s Posted November 17, 2017 Share Posted November 17, 2017 50 minutes ago, cletus said: Probably ok if they are 8mm or bigger bolts. As for a minimum thickness, there isn't a set minimum. The design of the bracket and what it is made of would dictate how thick it should be If it is just a straight bracket with no offset in it and it is mild steel, I'd suggest 6mm as a minimum for a rear caliper mount It is just a flat piece no off set . I have decided to go 10mm and the bolts are 8mm. So that should be sweet ay. Thanks again man 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grant76 Posted November 17, 2017 Share Posted November 17, 2017 awesome, thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WLDRX2 Posted November 18, 2017 Share Posted November 18, 2017 Rust question . Have the b1600 ready to start rust repairs, need to do the wiper cowl under the windscreen. Wellside is mint, but the tray is rusty, holes and gaps.All the mounting points are sweet, it's just the floor, do I need to sort that before going for a wof ? or do they class that as not a structural part ? Is no different to when you take the tough deck out of a modern falcon ute. Will sort it one day, just want to get a wof and start using it . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted November 18, 2017 Share Posted November 18, 2017 Se the bottom of tables and images https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/vehicle-structure/structure-incl2.-frontal-impact Rust in the tray shouldn’t be a problem. You might fail if there is any withen 150mm of the tailgate hinges and catches. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WLDRX2 Posted November 18, 2017 Share Posted November 18, 2017 Cheers for that. Will sort the screen rust and try for a wof. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted November 19, 2017 Share Posted November 19, 2017 fuel line fastening query HCTM doesn't differentiate mounting spacings for hard line vs flexible line? this seems a bit silly. like if I used the factory 5/16 hard line it has about 4 mounts each around a meter apart and that's fine because OEM, but if I run a new hard line (in larger diameter) through a different route I need mounts every 300mm? maybe there is an update I don't have? Just seems kind of ridiculous for 1/2" stainless tubing to need supports at 300mm spacing. would probably just use flexible the whole way if I have to stick to 300mm spacing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted November 19, 2017 Share Posted November 19, 2017 300mm or gfto in my experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ash Kelly barr Posted November 20, 2017 Share Posted November 20, 2017 Check engine light requirement on motors swaps?? im told of an OEM ecu is used the check engine light in the original dash must work with it..? my car doesn't have an ECU, however it does have a check engine light, witch I assume it is feed from a temp sensor and/or an oil pressure sender..? if I'm swapping from a 3A to 7A and staying carburettor, do I need the check engine light to work like factory? if so, if I'm using a standalone to run ign only but still staying carb. Could this be counted as not using OEM ecu?? cheers in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted November 21, 2017 Share Posted November 21, 2017 My quick guess is no. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M.H. Posted November 27, 2017 Share Posted November 27, 2017 On a Land Rover im doing an engine and gearbox conversion on will it need drive shaft loops? The engine and gearbox have been changed out for an isuzu unit, the orginal transfer box has been adapted to the isuzu gearbox in its original position with standard driveshafts. The land rover engine was a 2.5 turbo diesel 112hp, the isuzu is 3.9l turbo diesel 130hp. Will also have a 50mm body lift. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted November 27, 2017 Share Posted November 27, 2017 A drive‐shaft safety‐loop must be fitted to a low volume vehicle with an open drive‐line, in the case of either: (a) any custom chassis in a rear‐drive front‐engine low volume vehicle; or (b) any modified production chassis in a rear‐drive front engine low volume vehicle, where: (i) the vehicle has had an engine conversion that has resulted in a significant increase in power or torque; or (ii) the vehicle has had its factory‐fitted engine significantly modified, such that a significant increase in power or torque has resulted; or (iii) the drive‐shaft fitted to the vehicle has been modified by welding Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted November 27, 2017 Share Posted November 27, 2017 I personally wouldn't consider a jump of 18hp "significant", however the torque is what's gonna pretzel it so you'd be best to wack them in regardless. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted November 27, 2017 Share Posted November 27, 2017 On 20/11/2017 at 09:13, Testament said: fuel line fastening query HCTM doesn't differentiate mounting spacings for hard line vs flexible line? this seems a bit silly. like if I used the factory 5/16 hard line it has about 4 mounts each around a meter apart and that's fine because OEM, but if I run a new hard line (in larger diameter) through a different route I need mounts every 300mm? maybe there is an update I don't have? Just seems kind of ridiculous for 1/2" stainless tubing to need supports at 300mm spacing. would probably just use flexible the whole way if I have to stick to 300mm spacing. Yep either oe, or 300mm max. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted November 27, 2017 Share Posted November 27, 2017 On 21/11/2017 at 12:30, Ash Kelly barr said: Check engine light requirement on motors swaps?? if I'm swapping from a 3A to 7A and staying carburettor, do I need Nah not with a carb'd engine 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted November 27, 2017 Share Posted November 27, 2017 24 minutes ago, 00quattro00 said: On a Land Rover im doing an engine and gearbox conversion on will it need drive shaft loops? The engine and gearbox have been changed out for an isuzu unit, the orginal transfer box has been adapted to the isuzu gearbox in its original position with standard driveshafts. The land rover engine was a 2.5 turbo diesel 112hp, the isuzu is 3.9l turbo diesel 130hp. Will also have a 50mm body lift. In your case 50% hp or torque increase would be the tipping point for needing a loop. I would say 2.5 to 3.9 td might be a hard sell that it is actually less than a 50% increase, especially if you have things like a larger exhaust etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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