doullama Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 3 minutes ago, chris r said: My old c10 was 6 stud but only half ton. Might be alright could be a expensive gamble haha. just chuck the year/make/model into google, should tell you precisely what the gvm is, cutoff is 3500kg all up?? pretty heavy anyway, and doubt there'd be a special uprated version of the sub, can only fit so much in em/mpv of the 70s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 2 minutes ago, doullama said: just chuck the year/make/model into google, should tell you precisely what the gvm is, cutoff is 3500kg all up?? pretty heavy anyway, and doubt there'd be a special uprated version of the sub, can only fit so much in em/mpv of the 70s I have been googling etc but when the ad says 73 van without looking at it etc there isn't a easy way of know of checking. Don't want to waste peoples time asking them to look it over etc. Can get 1/2 3/4 and 1 ton stiff that externally looks the same 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doullama Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 8 minutes ago, chris r said: I have been googling etc but when the ad says 73 van without looking at it etc there isn't a easy way of know of checking. Don't want to waste peoples time asking them to look it over etc. Can get 1/2 3/4 and 1 ton stiff that externally looks the same Should be decodable from the spid in the glovebox (if its survived) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 8 hours ago, doullama said: Should be decodable from the spid in the glovebox (if its survived) I forgot about that. Will have a look into that. Cheers 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted March 14, 2017 Share Posted March 14, 2017 I'm sure this has been covered but if a car had been converted from auto to manual, without changing the x member, driveshaft or brake pedal, does it need a cert? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted March 14, 2017 Share Posted March 14, 2017 http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_08-2012_Re-issue_of_LVV_Certification_Threshold_Schedule.pdf A gearbox substitution that requires modification or replacement of the brake pedal requires certification. For example, it is common to replace the original brake pedal with a brake and clutch assembly when changing from an auto to a manual gearbox. how are you doing the clutch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted March 14, 2017 Share Posted March 14, 2017 Completely seperate mounting from the brake Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted March 14, 2017 Share Posted March 14, 2017 The reason I'm double checking is coz some nobody at a WOF training course told my workmates a cert is required for auto to manual regardless of brake pedal / x member etc and I wanna prove them wrong 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted March 14, 2017 Share Posted March 14, 2017 There was some discussion about this a few pages back. It's pretty common to swap the brake pedal for one with a smaller pad = cert. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted March 14, 2017 Share Posted March 14, 2017 Yeh what he said. On paper it might no require a cert to simply change the box and put in a clutch, but I doubt you would get away with leaving in the original brake pedal (massive) in anyway/who does that. But if it helps you sleep at night, then yes, you are "correct" Yowzer. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted March 14, 2017 Share Posted March 14, 2017 I have the original pedal in place and it causes no issue. I swapped the box in last year but I'm due a WOF soon. The box itself is a non-issue from a legal point of view considering I have chopped springs and RCAs, I just need to prove to my workmates that I do in fact know what I'm talking about and that they are wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted March 14, 2017 Share Posted March 14, 2017 Cert not required if the OE gearbox cross-member has not been heated, cut, or welded; and the OE gearbox cross-member mounting to the OE body or chassis members is unchanged; and no replacement gearbox cross-member is used; and the OE drive-shaft(s) remain and is un-modified; and no substantial modifications have occurred to the floor or gearbox tunnel area, other than provision for gear-shift mechanism; and the braking system is not modified or changed, including the brake pedal Also, Cletus said " the trap is, if you put a manual spec brake pedal, pedal box, or mod the brake pedal, then it needs cert " 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chasinthemirage Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 Does anyone have a copy of the New Zealand Car Construction Manual? I'm looking for the requirements for a modified brake pedal pushrod. My car has had the booster changed when the engine was swapped as the OE booster wouldn't clear one of the heads on the new motor. The original pedal end of the pushrod has been butt welded to the end of the Mitsi booster. It's been that way for 20 something years but looking at the weld without a sleeve or anything on it gives me the shits. What are the requirements for a modified pushrod? Does it need to be sleeved and plug welded or do I need to have a one piece pushrod turned by someone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 Welded won't pass full stop. There was a lot of discussion on this somewhere on oldschool a couple of years ago. Also, you can buy the manual sections individually now online. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 See here 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 It was me that was chatting about it with Clint . Your only option really is to cut off the original end of the pushrod and then run a die over the pushrod so that it can screw into your new fitting..I did this on mine. PS, have a look at all the information online (freely available on the lvvta website) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chasinthemirage Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 Bummer. I had a feeling that I'd seen this somewhere before. The car has a declaration form not LVVTA Cert so maybe welded was okay back in the day? Both pushrods are almost the same size so screwing them into each other isn't really an option. I've had a look on the LVVTA site but will have to purchase the relevant section of the Construction manual as the LVVTA website says to refer to that. Why do I do this to myself?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 Hahaha. Yup that's a fail. You will have to grab a new master cylinder and start again. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 EDIT. NM just bought the book. Stepping out of my comfort zone a little. From my time with 4wds I'm fairly sure you can make new rear trailing arms/panhard bars etc without much trouble (well..Compared to trying to weld a master cylinder pushrod lol) What if you are making the trailing arms from chromolly? What if you are changing from leaf to 3 link ;one link each side (from diff to forward leaf mount) + central tq arm. Will I need to provide crack test certificates (there will be threaded spuds welded into ends of control arms and lots of welding on tq arm) Will I need to provide material certs? A weld procedure? Sit a welding test? Etc etc etc Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 I built my own triangulated 4-link for the Mercury. No tests needed, but I did use the specified sch 80 pipe (heavy car) and drilled inspection holes for the threaded ends. I did all the welding myself, including the adjustable ends. I do know the certifier through the Hot Rod club, so I guess he thought I could weld OK. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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