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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs


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If it was me i would heat shield the factory pipes rather than moving them inside the passenger compartment, ive never been a fan of having the fuel in the same space as the humans, even if it is allowed. Also making heat shields or using some of that sleeve type heat wrap over the pipes seems easier to me than re routing and attaching them correctly

 

If you have wrapped the exhaust, and make an alloy shield, and there is an air gap, i think that would be fine.

 

Thanks for the advice, I'll see what I can do with a combination of sleeve covering and a shield of some sort. Cheers

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If the guy doing the paperwork couldn't tell the difference between a falcon and an rx3, then yes, technically you could. The reg name means very little. Ya see mis-regestered cars all the time.

 

I own a Mazda Cosmos according to the rego tag

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So technically I could list my Ford falcon as a rx3? Also he said there is no option for 808. Still a little confused here.

I had a quick look at that listing the blackish/blue 13bpp sedan? IIRC the last 6 digits of the stc stamp matched the last 6 digits of the cert tag vin number, and i presume the car had a vin tag attached also.. i can't see the problem here. Call it what you want; 808 body and all tags match, all legal.

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Where can I find out information about the legalities of fabricating a chain driven driveline for a car? Investigating if it's even worth the idea of putting a motorbike engine in a car

You can buy adapter flanges that replace the chain sprocket so you can bolt up a driveshaft direct to the engine for rearwheel drive. Another cool trick ive seen is using a Nissan R200 Lsd diff ditching the crownwheel and pinion and replacing it with the chain sprocket two small holes in the back cover of the diff cover for the chain to come thru and your away, the car i saw with this setup had a small ring gear sandwiched in as well with a starter motor so you could reverse.

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More interested in the whole lubed chain flinging grease places or if there's requirements to have driveshafts secured in a particular way. Be silly for me to investigate something that can't be compliant regardless. I'm also not keen to spend several thousand on a quaife conversion box that some mini guys use.

Should pay to say I've got a method someone else has used which seems fine, I just want to compare it to what the score sheet the cert guys might use to mark it effectively

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Hey Clint, back on the adjustable arms idea i know you cant use the other main types due to welding to cast but is this design acceptable? it is fully forged cast not welded. https://www.facebook.com/plugins/post.php?href=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.facebook.com%2Fpermalink.php%3Fstory_fbid%3D1171863636205511%26id%3D119135261478359&width=500

 

Id also like to run either a 30mm bodylift with no steering extension to save on buying this piece and having to extend intakes, fuel filler,vacuum lines, etc. This is the steering shaft slip yokes engagement at 30mm body lift.

FB_IMG_1476915148995_zpsvbpavpah.jpg

 

Or run 50mm if that isnt alright there are 3 choices of steering extension.

http://shop.snakeracing.com.au/ifs-hilux-steering-shaft-extension/ But for some reason these are not allowed in some of Aus so not sure about here.

 

http://www.vehiclemods.net.au/vmn_steering_extension Uses extra factory toyota slip joint and extra bit of splined shaft

 

or using the idea from above cut the upper spline of an wrecked hilux and use this with extra slip joint essentially a VMN extension from the wreckers.

 

Would also like to fit larger tires but have never seen tire size on a placard so if i dont change rims from cert can i change tire sizes? ie il will be certed on 17x8s (to clear larger prado brakes) and 33s but want to eventually fit 35s am i allowed to swap or is it noted down? Otherwise i will fit the 35s first.

 

Also is cutting a hole in radiator support panel legal as I will be running intercooler piping through it. (about 3 inch holes)

 

To avoid scrub will also be trimming the body mount like so

 

FB_IMG_1476774721075_zpsbatypcyg.jpg

 

FB_IMG_1476774730120_zpsur6bisvp.jpg

 

I assume this is all good as i seen one certed and done before but his looked pretty ragged.

 

My struts are adjustable by changing the silver spacer shown below. Does this go on the cert plate even though its not thread adjustable?

oasu0860003_outback_armour_suspension_to

OASUFJ12.png

Thanks feel free to ignore this as i know its not old school.

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What's the go with using wheel PCD adaptors with alloy wheels that use shank nuts ?

Everything I read says tapered nuts locating adaptor to hub and tapered nuts locating wheel onto adaptor

Are shank nuts ok on adaptors ?

Or do I need wheel centring adaptor centric ring gizmos as well?

Is countersinking old alloy wheels to run tapered nuts as dodgy as it seems ?

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Friend of mine is wanting to pop seats from a Super Custom into the back of a 4WD Hiace, The two local certifiers have differing opinions if this can be done without cert.

 

One reckons it can done if there is no welding - hence no 'modifying'. The other reckons that even bolt together adapters need cert as using the mounts in a way other than factory is 'modifying' them.

 

This friend likes to do things by the book so a clear answer would be sweet.

 

Cheers!

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Where can I find out information about the legalities of fabricating a chain driven driveline for a car? Investigating if it's even worth the idea of putting a motorbike engine in a car

do able

 

has been a few cars certed like that

somewhere on the LVV website theres something about them, but im not sure where. might have been a newsletter mentioning something about not legally having to have a reverse gear

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Hey Clint, back on the adjustable arms idea i know you cant use the other main types due to welding to cast but is this design acceptable? it is fully forged cast not welded. https://www.facebook.com/plugins/post.php?href=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.facebook.com%2Fpermalink.php%3Fstory_fbid%3D1171863636205511%26id%3D119135261478359&width=500

 

hard to say without seeing in person

 

Id also like to run either a 30mm bodylift with no steering extension to save on buying this piece and having to extend intakes, fuel filler,vacuum lines, etc. This is the steering shaft slip yokes engagement at 30mm body lift.

FB_IMG_1476915148995_zpsvbpavpah.jpg

 

Or run 50mm if that isnt alright there are 3 choices of steering extension.

http://shop.snakeracing.com.au/ifs-hilux-steering-shaft-extension/ But for some reason these are not allowed in some of Aus so not sure about here.

 

probably ok depending on what its made of

 

http://www.vehiclemods.net.au/vmn_steering_extension Uses extra factory toyota slip joint and extra bit of splined shaft

 

or using the idea from above cut the upper spline of an wrecked hilux and use this with extra slip joint essentially a VMN extension from the wreckers.

 

would be ok

 

Would also like to fit larger tires but have never seen tire size on a placard so if i dont change rims from cert can i change tire sizes? ie il will be certed on 17x8s (to clear larger prado brakes) and 33s but want to eventually fit 35s am i allowed to swap or is it noted down? Otherwise i will fit the 35s first.

 

tyres never get listed on cert plate, i would write it on the paperwork though, as anything bigger than 5% bigger overall diameter, needs cert

 

Also is cutting a hole in radiator support panel legal as I will be running intercooler piping through it. (about 3 inch holes)

 

yep

 

To avoid scrub will also be trimming the body mount like so

 

FB_IMG_1476774721075_zpsbatypcyg.jpg

 

FB_IMG_1476774730120_zpsur6bisvp.jpg

 

I assume this is all good as i seen one certed and done before but his looked pretty ragged.

 

looks ok to me

 

My struts are adjustable by changing the silver spacer shown below. Does this go on the cert plate even though its not thread adjustable?

oasu0860003_outback_armour_suspension_to

OASUFJ12.png

i would write it down as an adjustable platform suspension, because it is adjustable via spacers

disclaimer- anything i say may be different from what another certifier says

and no guarantees that what i get shown in a photo will pass a cert whether it looks ok or not

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What's the go with using wheel PCD adaptors with alloy wheels that use shank nuts ?

Everything I read says tapered nuts locating adaptor to hub and tapered nuts locating wheel onto adaptor

Are shank nuts ok on adaptors ?

Or do I need wheel centring adaptor centric ring gizmos as well?

Is countersinking old alloy wheels to run tapered nuts as dodgy as it seems ?

with adaptors, the requirement is to use tapered wheel nuts, or locate on the center spigot if the wheel nuts are not tapered

 

so use centering rings on the wheels attached by shank nuts and you will be fine

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Friend of mine is wanting to pop seats from a Super Custom into the back of a 4WD Hiace, The two local certifiers have differing opinions if this can be done without cert.

 

One reckons it can done if there is no welding - hence no 'modifying'. The other reckons that even bolt together adapters need cert as using the mounts in a way other than factory is 'modifying' them.

 

This friend likes to do things by the book so a clear answer would be sweet.

 

Cheers!

has it already got seats in the back of the 4x4 one?

if its registered as a 3 seater and hes putting more seats in, then definitely needs cert.

 

if it already has seats, and he is bolting in some different/better ones, this applies- 7.1

http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplementary_information/LVVTA_LVV_Cert_Threshold.pdf

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has it already got seats in the back of the 4x4 one?

if its registered as a 3 seater and hes putting more seats in, then definitely needs cert.

 

if it already has seats, and he is bolting in some different/better ones, this applies- 7.1

http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplementary_information/LVVTA_LVV_Cert_Threshold.pdf

 

Already has seats - just your very basic bench. The idea behind the Super Custom seats is that there's something safer for kids. 7-1 was what I was looking at. Does modified = welded, or any adaptation of standard mounting points, even if not welded?

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