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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs


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yet another brake question. 

 

I know that i cant weld the factory pedal box. 

 

but i have a fucked up remote booster that means that i have very few options for headers. 

 

I have been researching and a gent in aussie has mounted his master cylinder about an inch higher than factory, he has used a plate that is bolted to the factory pedal box. this is what the master is bolted to. he has then drilled a new hole in the brake pedal for the clevis to bolt to. This has allowed him to get a better ratio pedal and eliminate the booster all-together. 

 

 

Im on my phone on the train an cant sort out my photo bucket.

 

here is the thread he has the photo in posts and links to the guys photo bucket 

 

http://www.bmwforums.com.au/showthread.php/36546-Nigels-E21-S50B30-Project/page5

plate with no masters 

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj148/nigelmk1/DSC_4199.jpg

plate with masters 

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj148/nigelmk1/DSC_4207.jpg

pedal with new clevis mounting

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj148/nigelmk1/DSC_4449.jpg

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yet another brake question. 

 

I know that i cant weld the factory pedal box. 

 

but i have a fucked up remote booster that means that i have very few options for headers. 

 

I have been researching and a gent in aussie has mounted his master cylinder about an inch higher than factory, he has used a plate that is bolted to the factory pedal box. this is what the master is bolted to. he has then drilled a new hole in the brake pedal for the clevis to bolt to. This has allowed him to get a better ratio pedal and eliminate the booster all-together. 

 

 

Im on my phone on the train an cant sort out my photo bucket.

 

here is the thread he has the photo in posts and links to the guys photo bucket 

 

http://www.bmwforums.com.au/showthread.php/36546-Nigels-E21-S50B30-Project/page5

plate with no masters 

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj148/nigelmk1/DSC_4199.jpg

plate with masters 

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj148/nigelmk1/DSC_4207.jpg

pedal with new clevis mounting

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj148/nigelmk1/DSC_4449.jpg

How 'f****d up' is your remote booster?  If you can provide a little more info (photo's etc.) I can probably talk you through an appropriate fix or substitution far better than those in the links you've provided.

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How 'f****d up' is your remote booster?  If you can provide a little more info (photo's etc.) I can probably talk you through an appropriate fix or substitution far better than those in the links you've provided.

Thanks man I'll send you something in the PM 

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Can you actually do that?? If you did that itd be different to the new number on your rego card tho :?

NO. To rereg using a Black plate you need to prove the plate belongs to that vehicle.

Original papers is the best way but they will accept photographic evidence, ether historic pics of the car or off the untampered plate and it's fixings.

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Dose anyone have a carjam account they could check the number plate of my car to see if its still in the system?

 

 

If you ever want to check if a car still has live rego go to  https://transact.nzta.govt.nz/transactions/NoticeOfAcquisition/entry

and fill out step 1 and 2.

If the cars rego has been cancelled it will come up with an error.

If its still live it will bring up the vehicles details.

 

And its free.

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A question around dashes.

 

I'm looking at replacing my dash with an android tablet connected to the ECU via OBD2. 

 

From my reading of the rules, the only thing I absolutely need to have to pass a warrant (in regards to dash) is a working speedo (that is not gps based).

 

No mention is made of indicator lights, headlights or high beam indicators to show on the dash. Or total km's

 

Am I correct in my understanding?

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You need a high beam warning light on the dash and a warning system if a indicator bulb is blown (dash lights flash faster)

if fitted

but only applicable for vintage vechicles. none of that on pre 50's stuff (but if its there it has to work)

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You need a high beam warning light on the dash and a warning system if a indicator bulb is blown (dash lights flash faster)

You need indicator signal, hi beam warning lamp and airbag/abs warning lamps if fitted.

if fitted

but only applicable for vintage vechicles. none of that on pre 50's stuff (but if its there it has to work)

Thanks everyone, appreciated.

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as far as a cert goes, not allowed.

 

you can change the pattern if its done by a wheel specialist, where they press in an insert with an offset hole in it, im not sure how much of a difference in stud pattern that can take up

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