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Has to be within 150 of the UJ too I think?

Looks a bit far away in that pic?

 

It is about 150mm just the angle of the photo makes it look further back, Also after a but of searching the distance from the UJ has been increased to 250mm for driveshaft hoops

 

looks good to me. use a 100x50 washer on the top side of the floor, 4x 10mm bolts to attach to the floor, spring washers or nylocs on all fasteners, and take a photo before you put the carpet back in for your cert dude.

 

pro tip- tack the bolt heads to the washers on top of the floor and then its much easier to do up the nuts by yourself

 

Thanks Clint will do!!

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you could if the hose doesnt move much at that point.

 

could you rotate the hose at the caliper end to point it away from the body?

 

Ahh roger that. Unfortunately the hose does seem to need to move a fair amount. I had thought about turning the hose and then promptly forgotten about it again. I Have moved them and seems to do the trick in the air, hopefully with the weight back on it will suffice.

 

An additional question more related to the process itself. Should I be needing to book a recheck time in advance to ensure the recheck date falls within the correct time frame, or is that something you schedule in automatically with respect to the original inspection date?

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Weird one here. While slaughtering pigs on the weekend with a mate and his son talk turned to things mechanical as it often does here. In particular an unsubstantiated rumour is circulating that the bosses at Fonterra wanted to get their mechanics to remove reverse gear from all their tankers. Fuck knows why as it would make them very hard to resell later but the real question for us was, is that even legal? We reckoned not but maybe one of you guys knows the real answer.

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I think it is actually a requirement to have a reverse gear

but mostly it sounds like chinese whispers and people getting confused

I have no doubt the bosses want to reduce the instances of trucks reversing to an absolute minimum because thats the most common time for someone to get run over or for them to whack in to something. e.g. reverse parking rules are pretty common on many industrial sites these days and having to have a spotter for all reversing (although often the spotter is the one who is likely to get squashed :lol: ) and even for just moving big stuff around with forklifts in some places.

someone has just taken that idea/or how that was expressed and jumped to the conclusion of removing reverse gear. which as yowzer points out is impractical.

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I sold a car about 6 months ago and I got a letter in the post saying I am no longer the registered owner 3 times and now I just got a letter saying the rego is due, if they haven't changed the ownership would this happen? 

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Im manual converting my outback and i might have to use a Legacy prop shaft and trans crossmember.  The only difference is that the outback stuff is spaced away from the floor by an inch.  Can i just slam some spacers on the Legacy bits or will I run into problems come cert time and should just use the Outback stuff?

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Looking to throw my VT 5 litre v8 into my VX v6 commodore mainly because i already have car and engine and the v6 is sick its been hot a few times. Question being as the vx only had the Ls1 is this considered a bolt in conversion do i need d/shaft hoops are my brakes up to scratch?

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Looking to throw my VT 5 litre v8 into my VX v6 commodore mainly because i already have car and engine and the v6 is sick its been hot a few times. Question being as the vx only had the Ls1 is this considered a bolt in conversion do i need d/shaft hoops are my brakes up to scratch?

 

 

Because your car came out with a V6 and your now converting it to a V8 it will still need to be certed and driveshaft loops will be required. 

I would imagine your standard brakes provided they are in good working condition should be more than sufficient.

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Im manual converting my outback and i might have to use a Legacy prop shaft and trans crossmember.  The only difference is that the outback stuff is spaced away from the floor by an inch.  Can i just slam some spacers on the Legacy bits or will I run into problems come cert time and should just use the Outback stuff?

 

You should be able to space your standard legacy crossmembers as long as your spacers have the same amount of surface area as the crossmember mounting surface had.

If you want to space everything down by 25mm (1inch")  then i recomend solid steel for the spacers. 

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I sold a car about 6 months ago and I got a letter in the post saying I am no longer the registered owner 3 times and now I just got a letter saying the rego is due, if they haven't changed the ownership would this happen? 

 

As the seller of a vehicle you are responsible to ensure the new owners change ownership. But if you got a letter saying you are no longer the registered owner then you may want to write a letter to the NZ Transport agency or give them a call on 0800 108 809 and explain the situation. 

 

You can always go www.nzta.govt.co.nz and theres a section where you can put in your rego, driers licencse etc to check if a car is still registered to you.

 

Best to get onto this sooner than later to avoid fines if the car is in fact still in your name.

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Weird one here. While slaughtering pigs on the weekend with a mate and his son talk turned to things mechanical as it often does here. In particular an unsubstantiated rumour is circulating that the bosses at Fonterra wanted to get their mechanics to remove reverse gear from all their tankers. Fuck knows why as it would make them very hard to resell later but the real question for us was, is that even legal? We reckoned not but maybe one of you guys knows the real answer.

Because trailer hitching points etc get the most wear when they guys jackknife them etc etc so it'd save them money and they'd have another way of forcing all cockies to have a turn around for the tankers. (I think they have to anyway with Fonterror)

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Looking to throw my VT 5 litre v8 into my VX v6 commodore mainly because i already have car and engine and the v6 is sick its been hot a few times. Question being as the vx only had the Ls1 is this considered a bolt in conversion do i need d/shaft hoops are my brakes up to scratch?

Hoops are required for any and all engine conversions, brakes are most likely going to be fine but it'll have to pass a brake test for cert anyway

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Hoops are required for any and all engine conversions, brakes are most likely going to be fine but it'll have to pass a brake test for cert anyway

That's a wierd rule huh.

If you swapped out your engine and box for a replacement/newer setup of same spec, no one cares. Drop in a complete bolt in upgrade using factory mounts and driveshaft and you need a hoop.

I understand if you have a custom shaft etc, but seems odd that there are different rules for essentially the same job.

Dunno if the 304 into VX is bolt in but you get my drift.

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Hoops are required for any and all engine conversions, brakes are most likely going to be fine but it'll have to pass a brake test for cert anyway

Mine did not require them. (just shy of doubling hp)

With the turbo it will.

My next transplant will.

 

http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_09-2011_Drive-shaft_Safety_Loop_Requirement_Clarification.pdf

 

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Because trailer hitching points etc get the most wear when they guys jackknife them etc etc so it'd save them money and they'd have another way of forcing all cockies to have a turn around for the tankers. (I think they have to anyway with Fonterror)

 

It has been a requirement for fifty years at least for farmers to provide decent tanker access so the driver does not have to back up to turn. At least it was with the local co-op we were with before the advent of Fonterra. I'm picking the others were similar.

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Mine did not require them. (just shy of doubling hp)

With the turbo it will.

My next transplant will.

 

http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_09-2011_Drive-shaft_Safety_Loop_Requirement_Clarification.pdf

It did, you just somehow got away without.

 

A significant increase in power or torque in a low volume vehicle is considered to be over 50% of the vehicle’s factory power output

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That's a wierd rule huh.

If you swapped out your engine and box for a replacement/newer setup of same spec, no one cares. Drop in a complete bolt in upgrade using factory mounts and driveshaft and you need a hoop.

I understand if you have a custom shaft etc, but seems odd that there are different rules for essentially the same job.

Dunno if the 304 into VX is bolt in but you get my drift.

If the car did not come with the engine you are fitting, it needs hoops. I'm putting a 2.8 in a car that that had a 2.6. Basically the exact same engine, just a larger bore. Same power output. Needs hoops.

 

Them the rules.

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