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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs


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yo yo

 

I really foam over air intake set ups that replace a head light/part of the headlights. Given that head lights are very important safety features of a car is there anyone who has had success with this in regards to LVVTA certification? I have read the lights section of the document but it would be nice to hear from those with first hand experience.

 

 

the rules might have changed but when i did mine like that as long as both sides are symmetrical (ie, the opposite side is unplugged so only the two external lights work) and the remaining headlights are both high and low beam then your good to go.

 

 

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How many bolts do you need holding your engine in? Factory twin dizzy 12a was two on side of front plate both sides, later plate only has one stud on drivers side - previous owner has made a bracket to mount on this one stud, never had wof probs in the past but bit worried it will get pinged during cert

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In the event of a crash were parts of the body need to be cut out and replaced, how much of the body can be cut and replaced before its considered to be another car.

Or during a full restoration of a classic car how much of the original car needs to be kept to keep it original.

 

Example, I have a very rusty but original Mazda RX3. It needs new floors, quarter panels, roof, doors, bonnet, guards and chassis rails.

The only part that's ok is the firewall with the chassis number attached. (along with interior and most of the running gear)

 

Is it legal to replace all the panels as above and only retain the firewall as the only original part of the car ?

If it is legal then it must be legal to swap the firewall into another shell.

Although that doesn't sound quite right or legal.

 

Anyone with experience in this ?

 

(I don't have an rx3 just using it as an example)

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The main reason I have asked the question is I have the opportunity to purchase a very rare vehicle that basically has been rolled bolled and assholed.  

The main value in it is its rarity as only a limited number of them were produced.

The body is reasonably common so getting parts to repair it shouldn't be too much of an issue but in reality it needs a new shell.

If I was to repair it, it would need at a very minimum a half cut from the front pillars backwards and a nose cut meaning the only good bits I could salvage is the dash, firewall and engine compartment (and engine)

 

Ive seen full restos of vehicles that have been pulled from swamps or found almost completely decayed away in paddocks.

 

What are the legalities on re-shelling a car.

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Another q

Regarding rose joints for 4 linked rear ends (specifically my flatmate is 4 linking his 323 wagon). Are there specifics relating to the type of rose joint used and where they can be used? I understand the issue around binding and he's going to use bushes on one of his bars/the chassis end but he believes there are minimum specs around the type of rose joint.

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Re. Rebody questions.

 

This may help.

Brother has been racing cars for years and has "reshelled" 3 now.

As morkster says it's all about the paper work.

As long as the new shell is legit and not stolen or writen of all is good.

 

I don't think this would carry the same weight with the collector side of the market but it is common practice with competition cars.

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How many bolts do you need holding your engine in? Factory twin dizzy 12a was two on side of front plate both sides, later plate only has one stud on drivers side - previous owner has made a bracket to mount on this one stud, never had wof probs in the past but bit worried it will get pinged during cert

if you could prove it was factory like that and it was all mounted the same, then that would be ok.

 

but if its just missing a stud and theres a mounting boss there, then it would fail.

Ive never seen a rotary that didnt have the 4 mount bolts on the front cover apart from the later ones that mount on the sump or side etc

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The main reason I have asked the question is I have the opportunity to purchase a very rare vehicle that basically has been rolled bolled and assholed.  

The main value in it is its rarity as only a limited number of them were produced.

The body is reasonably common so getting parts to repair it shouldn't be too much of an issue but in reality it needs a new shell.

If I was to repair it, it would need at a very minimum a half cut from the front pillars backwards and a nose cut meaning the only good bits I could salvage is the dash, firewall and engine compartment (and engine)

 

Ive seen full restos of vehicles that have been pulled from swamps or found almost completely decayed away in paddocks.

 

What are the legalities on re-shelling a car.

Best to talk to a repair certifier. As Frosty said its all about the paper work so make sure you get someone involved from the start to avoid it becoming a problem when you re register it

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Another q

Regarding rose joints for 4 linked rear ends (specifically my flatmate is 4 linking his 323 wagon). Are there specifics relating to the type of rose joint used and where they can be used? I understand the issue around binding and he's going to use bushes on one of his bars/the chassis end but he believes there are minimum specs around the type of rose joint.

Has to be a high quality kevlar or teflon lined joint with the right load rating for the application.

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if you could prove it was factory like that and it was all mounted the same, then that would be ok.

 

but if its just missing a stud and theres a mounting boss there, then it would fail.

Ive never seen a rotary that didnt have the 4 mount bolts on the front cover apart from the later ones that mount on the sump or side etc

 

Didnt describe my set up very well sorry. From factory twin diz rx2 engine was mounted off of the front plate (end housing) with two studs on each side and angled brackets to the cross member i.e. not mounted off of front cover. Im running a basic rx4 style 13b where the front plate doesnt have the two studs on each side that the factory 12a had, still has two on the passenger side but only one on drivers side so the drivers side has a basic bracket to the one stud that is on the plate down to the cross member using standard square rubber mount.

 

Would like to just leave it like this to avoid more work changing over to mounting off of front cover, and i like the look. Worst case scenario i'll front mount off cover and next engine drill/tap a stud to replicate factory 2 stud mount off of plate. Not much meat on r5 type plates but i think there will be enough if i go right through to the inner water gallery ... or some shit

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I'll get one tonight. Below is from google, left is passenger, right is drivers side presumably -  have been looking for one for 10+ yrs.

 

Edit; May not be a twin dizzy specific set up - saw a pic of a twin diz cover on ebay with the 4 studs. Dont think its a year of manufacture thing as mine is '73 so not that early or late (rx2 manufactured 71-78 i think). R100 i think was side mounted too.

 

ysyrkmts.i0s.jpg

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