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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs


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hey guys,im moving the battery to the boot in the mk5 sport,do i need a sealed battery box for a normal battery or can i just clamp it down as it would have been in the engine bay??

as far as LVVTA rules go, it just has to be secured, doesnt have to be enclosed, and there isnt a spec for the tie bolts.

as mentioned by yowzer and japawagons though, motorsport nz has different requirements, if you are going to do any competition events then probably best to do it to those rules

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also, when there isnt a spec for something, it doesnt mean its possible to use an old coathanger or a hot glue gun to attach an engine/whatever, there is a requirement that everything has to be done to a tradesmanlike standard and be fit for purpose.

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also, when there isnt a spec for something, it doesnt mean its possible to use an old coathanger or a hot glue gun to attach an engine/whatever, there is a requirement that everything has to be done to a tradesmanlike standard and be fit for purpose.

a good point,the amount of people my mate used to have at his old workshop that wanted a wof with a bungy cord holding the battery was ridiculous.im think a 30mm wide aluminium strap with m6 bolts would be sufficient??or would i be better with a steel strap and/or bigger bolts??

and Joker raised a good point,the mk5 has the back seat in,but theres no solid wall as such between the boot and the seat,unless a large sub box counts as a firewall?

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for battery bracket in my pudjit I have a 6mm thick bit of flat bar under the floor with 8mm threaded rod that goes upand flat bar over top of one of those euro spec semi sealed lead acid batteries with the breather hose (which goes down through the floor) also have a plastic battery box over top.

mega flat bar under acts as a good earthing point also.

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LOL wut?

Mine's in the cabin space and isn't sealed.........

Passed cert like that....

Or should I keep that quiet?

According to Clint it only applies to MSNZ, although I thought it applied in general.

So yah, must be all good unless you wanna race it.

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for battery bracket in my pudjit I have a 6mm thick bit of flat bar under the floor with 8mm threaded rod that goes upand flat bar over top of one of those euro spec semi sealed lead acid batteries with the breather hose (which goes down through the floor) also have a plastic battery box over top.

mega flat bar under acts as a good earthing point also.

i like this idea,may have to steal it :P

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super strong. cost like $10 to make for the threaded rod, nylocs, wingnuts etc. the threaded rod has nuts on top of the floor, and below the flat bar to squeeze it all together (i made it so they're in troughs on the convoluted boot floor) then the flat bar is a little longer and the earth lead goes on top of the floor, bolt down through the floor and through the flat bar underneath. solid as a rock. I run a DIN55 coz that's the one that was in the car when I did it. they vent through a hose that I've put down through the floor. If the car tips over, in theory it wont leak. if it does it'll have to leak a shitload before it gets out of the box. Don't get any fumes (batteries can vent a shitload and in a closed cabin it's not so nice) and it's not like $9890283402380483204 for an optima style drycell battery.

Kaboom.

If you're shifting battery to boot I suggest putting an isolation switch in near your gearstick, and maybe even a circuit breaker near the battery in case you get a dead short. I want to do the latter but not sure what current rating to use as peugeots seem to take a million powers to crank over hah. Maybe a 200A one. Would be pretty lol having it short out to the max, weld the contacts shut on the isolation switch and be like 4 metres of 3/4" thick battery cable glowing red hot burning my diddle off.

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While playing around with Water injection on the dyno, we discovered that injecting straight E85 through the W/I system at high boost allowed us to add timing and pull back 'normal' fuel giving a ~10% power increase on the same boost while using hardly any expensive E85.

Due to the original W/I system being too unreliable and the jet blocking, I have replaced it with an E85 fuel system(separate to the normal fuel system).

It has its own tank, pump, pipes, filter, regulator and injector all mounted under the bonnet.

I mostly just use the car for clubsport events and keep it road legal for convenience and testing.

I could not find anything that seemed to cover this in the LVVTA docs.

Do I need to cert this?(The car is already certed for all modifications prior to this)

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I think there are laws around running seperate fuel systems/power adders (like Nitrous oxide) that forbid them being used on the road... I think it would fall under that umbrella

/Clint will correct my dumb ass..

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I think there are laws around running seperate fuel systems/power adders (like Nitrous oxide) that forbid them being used on the road... I think it would fall under that umbrella

/Clint will correct my dumb ass..

I don't think it's really a power adder, since it's perfectly fine to use E85 as my primary fuel, but it's damn expensive.

Let's see what Clint says.

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Will be fastening my new send and return fuel lines to the underbody of my car very soon. Is there any specific fastners I need to use ie self tappers,rivets or a bolt and nut? Think the factory line was held in by screws. Cheers.

nothing specific, just make sure its secure and wont fall off with vibration etc

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I think there are laws around running seperate fuel systems/power adders (like Nitrous oxide) that forbid them being used on the road... I think it would fall under that umbrella

/Clint will correct my manly bearded ass..

I cant think of a reason why you couldnt do this legally, if you are using a fuel that is legal for road use. As long as the extra fuel system meets the requirements of a normal fuel system.

Nitrous can be certed for use in a road vehicle, although i think the intent is for competition vehicles to be able to have all the nitrous gubbins fitted rather than for actually using it on the road. same with line-locks, they can be certed as well. i guess anyone using full jandal runs the risk of being done for "excessive display of acceleration" or whatever that stupid rule is called

cars with LPG have to have a yearly inspection (alternative fuel certificate) and a 10 yearly tank test, this wouldnt apply to an extra fuel system if it was just regular fuel.

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I cant think of a reason why you couldnt do this legally, if you are using a fuel that is legal for road use. As long as the extra fuel system meets the requirements of a normal fuel system.

Nitrous can be certed for use in a road vehicle, although i think the intent is for competition vehicles to be able to have all the nitrous gubbins fitted rather than for actually using it on the road. same with line-locks, they can be certed as well. i guess anyone using full jandal runs the risk of being done for "excessive display of acceleration" or whatever that stupid rule is called

cars with LPG have to have a yearly inspection (alternative fuel certificate) and a 10 yearly tank test, this wouldnt apply to an extra fuel system if it was just regular fuel.

Thanks,

So, do I need to cert the extra fuel system before going for a WOF? I'm thinking yes....

Or should I just try get a WOF and see what they say?

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