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missing ford


trunk-rattlin

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What they said :)

Check the dizzy cap for cracks and wear, give the connectors a scratch off or light sand.

Check the condition and connection of the low tensile lead between the dizzy and coil

Check the condition of the high tensile lead between dizzy and coil.

Check condition of leads to all plugs.

Check plugs.

Check/Replace Condensor (capacitor).

Check points gap.

If worst comes to the worst, for some cash I can send you my old points dizzy I took off my '76 2door when I replaced it with an electronic dizzy, which had just been into the local Ford dealer and had the points gap done and new points and condensor. The next day I changed it. Bastards.. the service cost a packet and they were supposed to ring me to tell me what they were going to do after they'd taken a look at it. If I knew all they were going to do was changed the points and fucken condensor I'd have done it myself.... anyway.. rant over. :)

Let us know how it goes.

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A points dizzy limits your rev range and you have to keep adjusting the points periodically to keep the car in tune.

An electronic dizzy eliminates the points adjustment, creates a smoother rev and increases your max and usable rpm. Well worth the effort in my opinion. I got my unit from an ex-race escort and couldn't find out more about the brand unfortunately but you can buy kits that change your dizzy from points to electronic/magnetic Pertronix Ignitor is one kind.

Just to clarify though, I wasnt offering an electronic dizzy simply stating why I removed the points one I was offering.

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When we junked the 3.3 in the Transit and fitted the 4.1 it had electronic on it. The old points on the 3.3 were crap, you always had to replace them, even new capacitor didn't stop it from chewing points.

The electronic was a dream until it spat a module, a weeklater it spat the coil, then the rotor and cap, then the whole dizzy chucked it in. Now it is fixed it is a dream.

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  • 2 weeks later...

try a can of easy start(can buy it from repco, its basicly CRC) spray it in your carbie before you fire it over and it will help, i had to do that everytime i wanted to start my high comp 5k in the cold :D

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randomly, the day after it was missing i fired it up again and waddayaknow! running on al 'fo'

what methods do you guys use, for example

choke right out and 1 pump of gas.

and should i be able to take the key out of the ignt.barrel while its going(i can)?

this is in nuetral (sp?) havnt tried it while driving

sam (proudly wearing oldschool.co.nz stickers)

(soon to come in mail)

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You've got it sweet if you have a choke i seem to never have that function, one of those things i just never get round to fixing, it doesnt mae the car go faster so no point:)

my usal start method is turn key pump once in and out and then back in a nd hold it flat, till it fires then off and a couple of pumps then if needed.

the key been able to come out just means that the barrel and/or the key is worn out and prolly can be started with anything that fits in the barrel, not really a problem tho, just goto you local locksmith with your barrel and key and they will be able to recon them

hope that helps :D

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it cost me 65bucks for 2 new keys an ignition barrel and one door barrel to be reconed, on the side of the door barrel there is a code if you can get that code they can recut you a new key for about 10bucks, that may be enough if the barrels arnt fucked, but if you can start it with another key they most likly are

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I find that every old car has its farvourite method of starting, for example when the Transit was running a Weber with aauto choke you pump the throttle once, let go, and start it. Now it is running a Stromberg it is 3/4 choke, pump 3 times, hold it to the floor and crank it. My Peugeot you give it 1/2 choke pump a couple of times and crank it etc. We had a car once where you never pumped it, nad you didn't use the choke, you just held the throttle to the floor and cranked it.

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