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Discussion : viewtopic.php?f=18&t=24727 Start way back when I was 17 in '97 bought it off a 'mate' for $1k standard 1300 poo brown with Black vinyl roof Hunt for more powah = 1600 then TC last WOF/rego 98/99'ish couple of radiators blew 2x spider gears thrashin tits off it - sick of that = welded up for fun Rolled in an Auto-X 2007 Salvaging EVERYTHING but bare shell pics : last flight vid : (nearly cried NEARLY!) re-birthed ex T-weir shell with cage (he has more history of it that I have forgot) Pics assembling : Ruanui Rd 1st outing - Bent drivers side front : Otaria Road in car Vid : Pics - bent Pasengers side front : R tried some Italian Solexes which gave grief s***ty running vid : return to Strombergs = 35kw yeti's Dyno 2010 vid : Pics : custom made CNC ACM panel adapters to fit Ramflo's I bought for the solex's (to be reinstalled when I have time/money to pay for a tune) SKIDS : EDIT : (pix and vid's as I find them on my pc's) Discussion : http://www.oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=24727 My wood/work shop Spares down at Wilf's have since found at least 2 more to scrounge from
[Update Sep 2019] turns out there was a wiring link missing on the supply to the resistor block was never there, now car runs better than it ever has in 2 years had a mate looking her over, he says "hey you've not got that jumper #5" makeshift Jumper, which I'll probably never upgrade [Update Aug 2019] Had the second hand Res Block fail while driving to Palmy Meet Have replaced with a brand new unit Now car only runs for 3 or 4 seconds then dies Appears Electrical ie not fuel related Has anyone experianced something like this & got any tips? [SOLVED tl:dr Resistor block failed : but read on to see some steps on problem solving with Electronic ignition in my Hillman Avenger] So drove to work yesterday, Parked all normal (over the Saddle Road) went to go to lunch & hey that's weird Car fires but wont 'run', heaps gas & sounds like its all fine until I return the key to On position, car dies I realise it's fairly basic switching & wires but a little over my head if anyone can dumb it down for a wood worker Started with the Ign switch inspection (thought it was main fault at first as a little wiggle caused the Alt light to blink) then tried a second hand unit with exactly the same results, starts but doesn't run so I'm a bit stumped, checked fuel in line, car runs good with the key in starter position (can rev it a little bit & don't want to wreck starter etc) more pics & Diagrams & maybe I've answered own question with the manual? Ballast resistor? And I'm running Electronic ignition from a later model so other than the chances of the second ign switch having same fault (unlikely) which most obvious Sparky boi have I over looked"? Internal guts of the ign switch are fairly simple too only one contact covering 1/5 > 3/2 1 : to Starter motor 2 : Acc 3 : Dash 5: (labeled it 4 on sticker) is main feed from Battery
Hi All, I though I would start posting abut my latest upgrade to my 1965 Hillman Super Minx. A few months ago I bought 2 Weber IDF 40 down drought carburetors to fit. I know it will never be a speed daemon but I just like building things. Carb's are new to me as I mostly work on injected engines so this was bit of a learning curve (still is). I will add some more posts of the build when I get more time. Here is a photo of the carbs when they arrived